G'day everyone, hope you all had a great Australia Day.

Just got back from a few weeks holiday in the States with the family, and purchased a few parts while over there (didn't the missus love that) and after I get a few more little bits and pieces I will be pulling the top end down to repair a cylinder base gasket leak. Would any of you more experienced guys have any tips on reassembling that aren't talked about in the workshop manual such as using or not using copper coat on the MLS base gaskets. I'm replacing the cylinder studs, lifters, pushrods for adjustables and the heads if that helps any.

Another question, since the heads are going to be replaced and look a damn sight better than the original cylinders, whats the best way and the best paint to use on the cylinders while they're off to tidy up the paintwork a bit. I won't be removing the engine, doing it in the frame.

Thanks in advance

DocGreen

Thanks for the tips kiwidave, appreciated. As for the studs, a fair bit of reading I've done while planning the pull down to replace the base gaskets (yeah the list has grown a bit ) it seems most guys recommend replacing the studs while it's apart. The bikes a 94 fatty (head breather) and the new heads will give slightly increased CR to 9.5:1 with standard thickness head gaskets.

I haven't purchased the Hayden oil fix kit, but do remember you mentioning  this in previous posts, may have to look at getting this before stripping her down.

I know you like the crane timesaver pushrods, do you know if the S and S quickee's are any good - they seem a bit cheaper than the crane versions.

I'm fairly handy twirling a spanner having done it for a living a couple of decades ago, but am always open to good advice from the more experienced.

cheers

DocGreen

Hey Doc,
I would recommend the motor come out, it will be a lot easier getting the back pot off and back on ,you can keep the inner primary on when removing the motor, if you have had previous experience with the spanners it not hard pulling the HD motor out!
Brake pedal, primary cover, compensator and clutch, it may sound like a lot of work but it ain't, just don't take the inner primary off and the engine will line up perfectly when going back in!
Cheers Corey

very early evo barrel studs were crap , i just use 1994 up stock studs or 1987 to 93  rethread the bottoms 3/8" unc turn them upside down so the flange is @ the bottom against the crank case's use 620 loctite to 15 or so lb's toqure that will bring it to 1994up spec i do this on all early model evo mods , early studs can come loose & pull the threads out of the case, i know a lot of evo mods but to many to list

Thanks for the replies gents, exactly what I was hoping for. Kiwidave, I hear what you are saying about the studs, and I very well may just inspect and if ok not replace because I definately don't want the costs blowing out due to extra work.

Koala77, they paint looks awesome - a quick couple of questions, how long ago did you do it and how is it holding up. I've read of guys just using bbq flat black with good results also, but would prefer as much as possible to keep it close to the finish on the heads.

Again thanks to everyone for replies.

DocGreen

Unless a stud is causing problems then i would leave them well enough alone. It may pay to look at the Hayden oil fix for the bases - have heard good things about them stopping leaks.

leave the motor in the frame but remove the front mounts and use a jack under the cases to lower the engine, that way you should be able to get to the rear rocker bolts.

i always check studs for any loose one no matter what engine it is  esp the 4 inner one's