Hey there I would like some veiws on differences /drawbacks on chain driven cams in stock 103 V gear drive. I realize this could open up a can of worms & possibly be an intervidule thing cheers in advance
sorry Ando I`m not clued up with this ,are you saying because of slightly more crank run out you wouldn`t go gear drive ?
Good stuff guys ,I value your opions, thanks for advice now I understand more about crank runout I have seen lots of posts about this but never really understood the importance...cheers
i like the gear drive system if the crank hastn't run out by now it should be ok , don't like the 1999 to 2006 model cam chest , what do you guys do to improve this model cam chest , but then again i like old cast iron sportys all geardrive with solid tappets
quite expensive set up to go from one chain to another i dont think the cams are far enough apart not to have gear drive i would be defferent if the cams were 9 inches apart or 9 inches away from the crank like a high camer pushrod engine like a Vincent
The advantage to gear drive cams is better timing that you wouldn't even notice. The downside is cost, risk and limited selection in cams for your 103. The consensus from a lot of smart blokes on here, in shops and in America is that you wouldnt bother with gear driven cams on a stock bottom end. Save some money and use chain driven cams.
all Harleys have been gear drive since day one including Panhead Shovelhead Blockhead Evolution & all Sportsters except Twincam , i am not a fan of the chain @ all each to there own
hi Hilly , plugging do you put a slight oversize inner plug in the end of the hollow crank pin to spread out the pin more into the flywheel is that what you mean by plugging the crank , i am interested as i have a 1999 dyna , stock pistons & heads atm 88ci that i use as a racebike, i think the crank pin is welded not sure untill i pull her apart in the new off season as i want too keep her 88ci atm , to see what i can do to a max-out 88ci dyna on the track, so far 11.3 sec 1/4 times @ 116 mph , i have a spare crank that needs a rebuild also i need some help with to lighten etc , i normaly do a radius & cracktest & shot peen conrod service on the early girls /models for other shops or race engines, for i want to have a 88 ci into the 10sec bracket stock c.c., any help would be good thanks
yes i seen the vid now , see i don't do bottom ends & never will i always leave this too whoever i can trust to do the best job i even take the customers bottom end there my self & pick it up as i do not trust the courier to be kind enough to the parcel box even box up proper, but i do concentrate on the rest of the engine & heads myself one person only. cheers fella's , i will see if i can have one of my children put up a pic of my 1999 dyna race bike in the dyna section, she was a stat right-off i got very cheap so she will always be a racebike now 88 ci only no big engine she is going to be the Cattledog - underdog @ the racetrack up against the bigger bangers
im just curious as to why someone would go to all the expense buy pulling down a motor to have there crank welded and plugged when yo can buy bullet proof cranks already assembled.
not trying to start a shit fight everyones entitaled to there opinion. but im not sure how you can not beleive the video when its there in front of you.
i have been running gear drive cams in my stock 96cube now for 15000ks still runs sweet and i flogg the clacka out of it :-)
i am trying to build Australia's fastest Harley street bike in another project she is a FXR base 145ci S&S twincam with twin S&S super D carb's , a lot of work & expence aiming for 200 hp & 190 ftlb , when we brought the disasemabled engine from S&S we sent the crank via Darkhourse for checking & stich welding , the amount of frame work we had to do to fit this motor in is a lot as this 145ci is 2" taller than a normal twincam she will be i hope the 1st street rego'ed Harley into the 9 sec in the 1/4 mile biggest street bike 2 377 c.c. big