So I have just got myself onto a 2013 Fat Bob and loving it.

However I do like to look after my own bikes, rather than just leaving it to the shop, and have found I now need to update my workshop.

Can anyone tell me what exactly are the bolts that hold the brake pads and calipers together? They appear to be some sort of torque bolt head? Went to Trade Tools today and the guys there just gave me funny looks!

They are called multihex head or double star headed bolts. Just a 12 pointed bolt head instead of 6. Pretty common nowadays.

12 points or Torx. Inversion sockets should be easy to find as are Allen Key type sets.

Torx head is what you want. Trade tools direct have a brand called Force that are not too bad and cheap enough.

12 point or double hex socket of choosen size is all ya need

PB. Torx only have 6 sides, The ones on our brakes have 12 sides.

On my 2014 fatbob the rear caliper needs a T40 Torx for the caliper and a 1/4" ring spanner to change the pads. The front is caliper is actually the ring end of a 10mm ring spanner (ring end is 12 sided).

Thanks for that guys, never come across these before.

Why a spanner and not a socket, or doesn't it matter? I thought they were a normal 12 point bolt head (aren't they?). If so, bunnings (I think) has a set of sockets, both imperial and metric if I remember rightly, which might have one to fit. Cresent brand, cheapish, but they've done all the jobs I've thrown at them so far.

Ring spanners are 12 sided. Some sockets are 12 sided but most are 6 sided, and 6 side socket just wont work.

Ok, I just wanted to be sure it wasn't some weird arsed specialized tool. It's been ages since I worked on brakes so I wasn't sure. I bought the cresent sockets since my brakes need looking at ...

metric bolts for HD used brembo system and they not gunna reset thier tooling and forging just for hd ,so metric sockets or spanners ,1 triky bolt is at rear of rear brake and head only jus not enough 2 get spanner on ,now i bought a 1/4inch thin walled 12 sided socket it has 2 b 12 sided and thin enough 2 fit around bolt ,tricky theses bikes ,i call em bitttsass 4 all da money ya pay ,ever tried 2 filll air in ya tyres wat genius thought out that ergonomic ease offf puttin air in tyres ,then checkin them is even mpore ergonomic ,fer fuks sake hav look wrere rear master cylinder is let alone check it ,an that socket u need for rear brake who da fuk thought that up ,i couldnt get one anywere then saw snapon truk got it now wasnt cheap sum bla bla 95buks bikes maily sae 1/2 inch etc i bought set star shape allen keys from HD coz nothin i had fitted exactly an u force it uve fuked it o an i locktite most threads use different locktites blu red green all hav diff strenghs ,but dont locktite front brake cap is your master cyl weeping an paint looking bit dodgy ,well dont tighhten t he 2 screws tighter as rubber seal will start unseating itself and a buldge will b visible thats wen ya start da weepin syndrome ,aw unlesss theve rengineered master cylinder which has been prob over 10yr now ,i bought replacement chrome cap an states its new improved an has new rubber attached 2 lid so all u do take off old check oil level ,u dont want it high i draine with big syringe an leave few ml over piston ,warning do not pulll brake lever with cap offf u will put air in line an cover ya self in brake fluid ,and then have 2 bleed braes ,that u dont need so can look at oil wif cap offf then most times way 2 much oil in cyl av look at rubber diafram attached 2 cap quite big an deep then thats y i syringe half out 2 stop master cylinder weepage ,take 2 shop comes bak full oil an locktited on after i told them an wrote note dont over fill resivoir an tightnen cap screws tight coz it squashes rebber seal and then after hard ride youll notice brake fluid seeping ap cap so u thihnk tightnen but is not the case i take top offf again suk out excess n leave 3-5 ml over piston clean cap good,master cyl has terrible metal decomposing shit job HD anyway wen tightnening cap just a  little from each side makin sure cap goes down   till u feel just firm then try othther screw bak both offf jus little bits csrew willl fel fim but not tight and watch rubber gasket doesnt start 2 gett squashed or buldging out if so release screws dont put loktite on screws coz wen ya take cap offf da shits evryere ittle bits i gladwrapped master cyl so keep shit outta oil an my brakes av never let me down ever ,o an iluv gear change an footbrake housings ,was like someone jus goin threw odddsan ends ha ha this piece fits this bitta pipe weld footpeg on it an gearlimkage jus same aw dis be good 4 gearchange this ll do weld sum shit up ,now brake pedal wobblin round as meta 2 metal is wearin y didnt they bush that pivot an gearchange pivot ,i think illl look into this ,,get somthin machined or mite b luky an find right pice 2 take that sloppiness out same on gear change now because of usin gear change constantly  its gettin more  sloppier also wen using gear change the shaft that hols gear levers is binding as is not square anymore part is supposed 2 pivot wen lever pushed but also is puttin pressure against pivot rod and will weaken by scoring grovve in shaft ,horse an buggyies took more pride fer fuks sake o an my spark plug leads rubbin bare against petrol petcock exposing bare wires fuel geezez weell reroute that ,o an u luky get undercoat underneath shiny bits ,an then my paint started comin of in in hard pieces at front of mudgaurd looked shithouse took off o ive babbled again  sorry shingles