Hi Fellas

 1992 Heritage.

I can't understand the method in the workshop manual for mesuring the end play on the front wheel.

Any one want to try and explain it? I think it "might" be a mistake in the book.  It goes on about bolting every thing up, then putting a dial gauge (havn't got one any way) on the end of the axleand moving the wheel, how's the axle going to move? Its bolted up.

Here's an extract from the manual.   Thanks Doug        

Front Wheel Bearing End Play
Check/Adjustment
(1992-on)
Proper wheel bearing end play is important to
your Harley's steering and handling performance.
Incorrect wheel bearing end play can cause poor
handling or excessive bearing side loading and pre
mature bearing wear.
On these models, wheel bearing end play is con
trolled by the thickness of the bearing spacer in
stalled between the spacer washer and the center hub
spacer; see Figures 17-19 for your model. End play
should be checked each time the front wheel is
reinstalled or whenever unstable handling is felt.
1. Support the bike so that the front wheel is off the
ground.
2. Tighten the front axle nut to the torque specifica
tion in T^ble 2 or Table 3.
3. Tighten the slider cap nuts to the torque specifi
cation in Table 2 or Table 3.
4. Mount a dial indicator so that the plunger contacts
the end of the axle (Figure 5). Grasp the wheel and
move it back and forth by pushing and pulling it
along the axle center line. Read axle end play by
observing the dial indicator needle. Compare with
end play specification for your model in Table 1.
5. If the end play is incorrect, replace the bearing
spacer; 

Do you have the two piece, cup and cone bearings, if so you will feel when they are getting fogged out as the wheel itself will start to have heaps of unusual noises and a bit of end play. Take wheel off and  clean and look at the rollers on the bearing for pitting or rust or uneven smooth/rough wear. Ya cant get end float on the axle as its fixed.

If its upgraded to one peice bearings, When you have wheel off to get a new tyre, stick finger in hole and feel for loose, wobbly or grinding noises. Look for rust or water impregnation. If it feels and looks good, SWEET!

Hi 

These older bikes have removable and regreasable tapered bearings, a bit like cars, they need end play adjustment, the allso have independent seals.

I'm just don;t under stand the manual, I have a Haynes and a Clymer, both have the same disrciption.

Did you read the included pasage?  Did you understand?

Doug

Yep read it, understood it but its wrong. It would only work if you mount the dial indicator base on the wheel and then put the plunger on the end of the axle then it would tell you wheel bearing end float. 

In my experience the wheel spacer and washers don't wear out as they are crushed together with the inner cones of the bearing. If it has too much play then i would replace the bearing, they are cheap. I would not try to reshim the spacer unless it's for a custom wheel setup.

Hi

Thanks for your input, went back and read it again with you coments in mind, stared at the drawing, and it became apparent, it actualy ,kind of shows the magnetic base of the gauge attached to the disk rotor, crap drawing. They could have said "attach base to rotor"!!

Now its clear what to do.

Actualy the wheel had a slight drag when I spun it with it off the floor and the brake removed

. I have cleaned and inspected the bearings and they look good. Might have to get a dial gauge.

Thanks again Doug

 

 

 

 

I got rid of the old tapered bearings and fitted a sealed bearing kit to mine part number was 44-2995 from v twin . The kits are for the rear but fit the front with minor modification.

You got it right with the dial indicator set up,,, manual is misleading and not clear.

 

A good rule of thumb with tapered roller bearings is " no play- no drag "

easy enough to do when assembling them but really what you want is that rule of thumb to apply when the bearings are at opperating temperature.

 

So, a little play when cold is what you want so that when they heat up and expand they tighten up a little but not drag or bind.

Like if you have the wheel off the ground, grab the wheel and you should be able to feel the slightest movement at the outer diameter of the wheel (tire),

just enough that you can feel movement, as in a mickey whisker, fairys fart, etc,etc. (like up to a sixteenth of an inch movement, no more)

Hi 

Thanks for the responce's guys, its not the first time Iv'e gotten misled by these manuals, 30 years ago I broke the crank bolts on a Commando cause the tension in the manual was wrong.

Any way we got forums now, Im never to proud to ask for advise now if Im not 100 percent sure.

FLH, I saw what u did, naughty naughty, lol.

Cheers Doug

PS is the HD factory manual better?