Hi

  Bought a 1993 Heritage. Loose noise from comp area.

  Apparently compensators are a pain. Or so I'm lead to beleive so far.

  Posable solution has been sugested, change to a solid sproket.

  Thought I'd run it by you blokes, see what you thought. Not keen on the Idea, but I looked at the existing set up and don't think much of it either.

Any one had experiance with this suject? And been sucessfull.

Cheers Doug

 

I'd be interested in the outcome to see if you notice any difference other then the noise as mine has a solid sprocket i was wondering if a compensator would be of any benefit.

if the compensator bolt has been of a few times in its life (good chance she has been ) the bolt can stretch which makes them louder too
but yes they are noisy but the amount of times I have thought whats that new noise gone looking than cant find anything
the fukers make strange noise at times and you do get paranoid , I brought a complete new one and that made the same amount of noise as my old one did

if you grab the clutch & turn it back & foward you will see if the comp sprocket cam is worn , if you have the idle speed down & bike out of tune you will hear it  when the idle speed is smooth you won't hear it , 

My stock compensator was noisey, pulled it off and it looked ok, maybe the conical springs were stuffed. Fitted the BDL 24T compensator, half the size and weight. Discovered the clutch cable buggered so picking up newy tomorrow. Cross fingers all the gravel noise will disappear with new compensator.

Hi
What do you ride Indi? Is it suposed to have a solid sprocket?
A devise like that will make noise's, but it shouldn't sound loose. I think from susing it out a bit that the weak point is the spring(or what they have for a spring).
Hay Oldtimer, I looked at the BDL on the J&P site, they must be OK cause they are sold out. Be real keen to get an honest evaluation of it after you test it out.
Cheers

DUGE
I'll give a oi once I get it all sorted and put the bike thru it's paces. It's got to better without the big lump of metal on the end of the shaft.

Hi

   Thanks Oldtimer, I havn't found an exploded veiw of the BDL to see how it functions, do you know?    Where did you get yours? 

  Got numerous drawings of the HD one, but none actualy show the "spring", I get the impression that they used washers of spring steel in that "lump of steel", have you looked?  I havn't had this bike long so I havn't. 

Any imput from others is appriated.

Indi have you ridden a similar bike with a comp?

Looking forward to your future revelations  .

 

was your's  already a 24t oldtimer , s/tails & dyna's were 24t pre 1993 later is 25t , i have a 1999 went to fit the 24t & the chain is way too long , you can jig the adjuster around but the chain snake's around the sprockets too much  i need a shorter chain

DUGE
The cup that sits against the sliding cam holds the conical springs, if you want to go to BDL, Easy Riders and Rollies sell them in Brissy. BDL is a compression type compensator, it uses two teflon discs, one for forward motion and one for rebound.

Daddyracer
You are correct mine was a 25t the only way to tighten the chain was to fit 85-00 chain tensioner and flip it. Investigated all the usual places and found that Bakers made a fat tensioner shoe for the present tensioner for this very purpose. The ramp on the chain doesn't look to sharp and I guess I will find out tomorrow when I go for a blat. Don't know if there is a shorter chain for the 24/36 if there is I couldn't find it.

Hi Oldtimer
I'd need to see a drawing to under stand the BDL set up.
So with your new gearing I presume you will have a bit more pick up and a few more revs at cruiseing speed?
What you riding?
Dug

The lead flange screws into the sprocket sandwiching a teflon washer and the nut flange goes into th other side of the sprocket sandwiching the other teflon washer, with forward motion and rebound the sprocket will screw and unscrew compressing the teflon washers. The HD compensator uses disc springs and ramps to achieve shock proofing. Check the link on how it all gets assembled, http://www.beltdrives.com/pdfs/cs24acs25a.pdf

2004 flstci the 24t compensator should give 3.28:1 about 200rpm increase and prob about 4% increase in Tq I hope.

i have a 1999 Dyna for street drag use only as it was a statdeck  right-off i got cheap set her up for the strip only use cut every part off not needed she is lighter than a Sportster atm  only 7 passes old ,  so still sorting the mikuni 45 m.m. carb she already had on her etc , i need to run the 24t engine sprocket for quicker take off's,  i have ordered a Evoloution ind solid 24t sprocket  to save more weight thats the only reason , the old compensator will be aval too anybody who could use it , but i still need to work out the chain lenght also , i have converted the rear drive to chain 22/51 t , cheers Bob

How goes it. If you go 24/36t you'll need a Baker fatshoe that will fit your stock tensioner or the 85-00 tensioner and flip it, with your setup final drive will be 3.47.

Ideal setup would be 24/37t and you would be able to use the regular 82 pitch chain with the final drive of 3.57. I'm looking for a chain to fit the 24/36t, if there is one I'll give you a oi with the info. At the moment, from Baker's info if you go to a 21t you can dropto an 80 pitch chain. Check the Baker link showing the flipped tensioner

http://bakerdrivetrain.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/comp_sprocket_instructions.pdf

Evolution Ind do a performance clutch with 36 or 37 t  but @ 700 buckaronies, im trying to do this race bike on the cheap so all up under 4 ,000 complete with the price of the bike if any help would be good cheers Bob

i don't want to flip the adjuster as the chain is too much of & S bend around the sprockets 

 

Daddyracer,
I know what your saying about the dollars, thats why I went with the 24/36 instead of 24/37. I opted for the Baker fatshoe and it seems ok, research of other forums and peoples experience indicate good long term wear and performance. Another option is if a 21t compensator is acceptable with a 36 basket then you would be able use a shorter chain (80 pitch). This will give you a final drive of 3.97 with 22/51 rear, that'll make the dyna jump outa the gates, how much top end are you prepared to loose. At $45 the fatshoe was my choice. Hope it all comes together for you mate.

Thanks Oldtima
That info was very good.
Is there much compression in those washers, like a bit of give. I've used teflon washers on Commando engine mounts, not exactly a rubber type product.
Wait and see what your seat of the pants tells you.
I've been checking out enclosed belt drives, BDL & Riviera. Any thoughts? Don't plan on beefing up the 80, I prefer under stressed motors.
I should have thought that belts would have a little bit of shock absorbing.
The latest models have cush drive in the final pulley.
Cheers

Hay Daddyracer
Just had a squissy at yor pics. You have a "Sturgis". Looks original, It had belts front and back did it not? That was the bike I used to dream about. Ended up going British. Commando. But later on I ended up buying a new 1984 Softail. But thats a story for an other day.
Cheers











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the 1st model Sturgis with the 2 into 1 pipe  all original she was one of three built wiuth a sidecar outfit that she still has , she is up forsale atm iv'e had her for 16 years  offers above 20k