I updated the down load. When I connected it to the bike it did it again.

Think it said vci . On the left was a list of saved options I think. Had my name on it and list bike details under it. I'll have another look tomorrow when I go back to the shed.

Thanks guys. I dont want to stuff anything while poking around and learning.

G'day Hilly,,, Been following this thread, and many others on tuners and tunning. You get to a stage where you can have a reasonably intelligent conversation regarding the topic. There is nothing like experience , and having someone close by, to put you in the right direction when you have a go at using the technology that's out there on your own bike.
Thanks mate, for putting in the time and effort with your info and articles for people finding their way through all the smokes and mirrors of DIY tuning. As the old bloke at the end of the bar kept saying, "son,,, you"ll never stop learning" . Cheers.

Thanks Hilly. I let it update and it was fine as you said. I really don't know what I'm doing in there but was cool watching what was happening while engine was running.

The program stored on my pro-tuner is Identical to the the down load with the same code. Looks to me that I payed for a download rather than a tune. They put it on the dyno just to get numbers obviously. Providing of course what ever is on the bike is what comes up when pluged in to the bike.

For your "personal tune" the file name would have to be different

Not necessarily radically different , just different as they have to "save it as" A N other file name

Calibration file 358SDV-003...yours may be called 358SDVDutchy-... ( or whatever )

Many times a straight download will work real well , but "Dyno tuning/time" should not be charged for unless it was done

Thanks Retroman. There is a difference between saying I Dyno tuned your bike and I down loaded a tune. Could also have said I downloaded a tune and I put it on the dyno and it was running great so I did not change it. Anyway time to move on. Lesson learned.

I bought a 2nd hand '07 XL1200C, and it came with a SERT.

I purchased the cables, and want to plug it in, to check what tune it is running.

is it just a matter of plugging it in, and having the software open, turning ignition on, and it will transfer the file?

 

It runs like a dream, and it is more curiousity then anything else, and obviously do not want to stuff the current tune.

 

also, i assume that the SERT can only be used on one bike?

I have come home, and the software on the laptop is all up to date.

plug in the SERT, and it finds the USB driver, so far all good.

plug it into the bike, sturn ignition on (includes headlight) and it starts to communicate, but then the first thing it wants to do is update the VCI?

I believe from Dutchy's experience that this will not delete my current tune/ cal file?

with the headlight on, and motor not running, how long does it take to rewrite the VCI? As I assume the battery life will be limited?

I ALWAYS plug in the bike's battery tender when retuning.

If the bike ain't wired for one I use crocodile clips onto the battery terminals

It does not take a long time to actually reflash , but the bike's ignition can be "on" for ages with farting about etc etc

Aussie bikes the fucking headlights are hard wired as well . I often pull the headlight fuse also

You have to " update" the VCI in my experience mate , at least I always let it run thru the process

Thanks for the reply, hopefully I will get around to it tommorow

 

cheers

Played with it tonight, and as I suspected, it is running a stage 1 tune.
It has someone's name in the file name, can I change it somehow?

And can I reduce the idle speed as well?
I like the lumpy sound, but could this affect the oil pressure?

Could not get my phoe to put text on anyway. This is not good photo but my plugs are light tan colour almost yellow. I'd say shes a bit lean.

Hi,

Light tan is good, if you have manual it has a good page on what you look for with spark plugs, if you concerned add 2 points across entire VE table for front and rear cyl

Thanks
Robots

Thanks Robots. I assume its better to run a little rich than lean as far as engine damage gos. I'm going to ring Neville Lush this week to get it tuned properly.

I have the 120r engine heavy breather 58 throttle and I've just changed from standard fatbob headers with cat etc removed and S&S slipons to a D&D boarzilla. Dealer only put download in when engine installed. Tune was not perfect before but bike is worse with new pipe.

With new pipe bike splutters and coughs if engine is not fully warmed up, will do it too if left sit for an hour after ride.

Pops and on decel every now and then.

If cruising and excelerate it will splutter or have no power for a second before coming good.

Coughs and splutters if I throttle off quick and throttle back on. Like when going hard in to sharp corner.

No problem if going hard through the gears.

Pretty good on fuel. Doesnt use much more than the standard bikes unless ridden hard.

Cheers Guys for your input.

 

 

"If cruising and excelerate it will splutter or have no power for a second before coming good."

Let me know if you have any luck sorting this one out as I'm having a similar issue and have managed to work out the rest of the kinks in my tune except for this one. Happens pretty much as you describe it. 
We're running a pretty different set up but I think the resolution might be similar.

Do you notice it in any particular gear or is it pretty much any time you go from straight cruising to a bit more throttle?

My old boy reckons it's because it's running a bit rich, which it probably is at the moment, but he doesn't have a lot of experience with Harley's so he's not sure.

hi,

acceleration enrichment could be an area to check in your map, there a multiplier table, should be a nice curve on graph

otherwise check VE(fuelling) and timing in the area you think it happening (i.e. at x MAP/or TP), there may be an abnomally in the tables at the particular area where you notice it
thanks
robots

Good idea, thanks for the advice. I will load the map and take a look. Unfortunately I do not have a huge amount of experience in sussing out these values and the possible coinciding anomolies. However the autotune does seem to have made some difference over the past few runs so hopefully that helps me identify it.

Cheers.