Anyone got any advice regarding a stage 1 upgrade for my 2010 Ultra Limited? I know it's pretty straight forward for those in the know, but any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

Before you spend some cash think about whether you wanna take the motor any further down the upgrage process, ie stage 1,2,3,4

If you do the work yourself not a big deal but if paying shop for stuff think about above

Thanks
Robots

Hi Red, Mate there is plenty on the forum and internet regarding stage 1 information that will keep you busy , so I wont reinvent the wheel here.

As Robots, (above) says, what are your future plans. Most go , (on all Harleys) to the basic stage 1 , (slip-ons for better sound, etc , and upgraded air). To get the best bang out of your stage 1 investment, (usually between 5 - 8 %), you will need to recalibrate a number of settings , (fuel, VE and timing settings). Some will buy a cheaper module that basically adds more fuel, these modules will work ok, and you will be a happy camper. But to get the best bang for your investment, performance wise , you need a more advanced tuning device to recalibrate all the important settings. There are two ways to do this, DIY with a device with auto - tuner capabilities or get it tuned by a professional , (seeing your asking a question regarding a stage 1, I would advise going to a professional).

Now I'm not saying your going to mod your bike to stage 3 or 4 , but as sure as there is shit in a cat , you will have a big urge down the track, (usually your mates ), to do a cam upgrade , ( stage 2). Now you will need, (in my opinion) a more advanced tuner . So my advice , sort out what slip-ons and A/c you want, and buy a more advanced tuner ,(if you get a professional tune , buy his recommended tuner) , so you get the best performance for you investment, and in the future you know tuner wise your covered !!! I've kept this as simple as possible, so now start doing some research !!! Hope this has been of some help , Cheers.

Hi Red

Just make sure you get the best bang for your buck & that is going to do what you want it to do, also going to last. Also its not always orginal HD products that can give you the best for your bike either.

Cheers Rick

Thanks for the replies. I have done a bit of research on stage 1 upgrades on both this site and some of the septics. I have had SE slip ons installed from new but haven't gone any further with any other mods at all. Brother in law just bought a Breakout CVO, and I've had a gut full of trying to keep up with him. I love my bike and have NO intention of getting rid of it any time soon. I don't want to try and out do the Breakout, I don't think any reasonable amount of money will, but my wife has a SE pro tuner and SE AC on her bike with a set of Vance and Hine short shots (1200. C). Bike goes like the powers of piss and has never let us down on a trip. So I'm thinking of sticking with SE. Maybe a super sucker and a tuner the same as hers? Most of the forums in the states also talk of removing the headers with the cat converters. Don't know if the dealership is going to go along with it or does it really need to be done? Again, I appreciate the time other members go to to actually reply to my post and look forward to any input.

Hi Red, Re Catalytic Converter,(cat). A good cost effective way is to remove the cat from the stock header pipes. I did this on my 2009 Glide, I believe the 2010 are the same. Once again, plenty on the internet about this . This mod has good success with our year bikes , as the O2 sensors are up high near the cylinders, the later model bikes have the O2 sensors lower closer to the cat. You also have the Active Exhaust Valve at the end of your right header pipe. This can be disabled, (in the opened position ) , by your SE Tuner , by you or the Dealer. In my situation , my header pipe had a crack on the weld where the AEV connected . I removed the AEV completely, and replaced with approx 6 inches of Stainless steel pipe. Personally I would remove the Active Exhaust Valve completely , even in the disable open position , there is about 20% restriction in the pipe. The Active Exhaust "Actuator" is located on the right side , under the battery area. This can be left where it is , and the cable , (from Actuator to exhaust valve ) , can be cable tied up in a safe position.

I believe with this mod you will get a less restrictive exhaust, a touch better sound, and helps with excessive heat problems . This together with a tuned Stage 1 bike , I think you will be a very happy with the results !!!
It wont be long before you will be thinking of a Stage 2 , ie, Cams , if you don't want to be to far behind you brother-in laws Breakout CVO !!!!!!!!

PS, Click on "my pics" , there are a few pictures of my cat removal project !!! Cheers Mark.

Hi Mark, appreciate the reply. I've had a look at the pics and some of your repair work write ups. Off the topic of the stage 1, I haven't yet replaced the brake fluid on my ultra. I've been told every two years? My bike is four years old. I noticed the last time I went away overnight, a small, tiny amount of fluid evident on the front reservoir around the small holes in the seal. Is this the fluid boiling and overflowing? Should it be changed? The bikes got ABS and I've also been told that you can't do a fluid change without putting the bike on a digital technician? Sorry to ask so much, but you seem to know what you're talking about. What's your background? Mechanic, engineer? I had a neighbour I used to be able to talk bikes with until he had a bad accident and no longer rides and is no longer in the neighborhood. I'm keen to learn a little and I try and do as much of my own work as I can. Don't want to be a pain though, but would appreciate any info at all. Cheers, Nathan.

Hi Red, Thanks for the kind words , Should put this up in the Workshop Section. Anyway, turn handlebars fully to left lock, (so reservoir is level), put shop rag around reservoir and remove cover and check level and colour of fluid. Replace cover and tighten down. You may have just had a loose cover. I don't know if fluid was boiling , you will see if reservoir was overfull. Manual recommends brake fluid,(Dot 4 ), change every 2 years, as bike is 4 years old then, YES I highly recommend you change your brake fluid.
You can bleed brakes on a Harley with ABS as with non ABS. If you are careful ,(which you should be with any part of the braking system) , everything should be ok. But, But, But, Harley recommends the use of the Digital Tech Tool so as when bleeding the system if any air enters the ABS module system this tool corrects the problem. As I live in the country I bleed my ABS bike. After I finish bleeding the system I pump the brakes back up, check that the ABS light goes out , go for a test ride and find a quiet road and test the ABS is working properly . I haven't had any problems so far.
If you find the ABS light stays ON after bleeding the system, (after you ride the bike a short distance), you can assume air has entered the ABS module system. If this is the case , your brakes are working as if on a non ABS bike, not the end of the world. Now you will have to ride to the closest dealer that has the Digital Tech tool and let them bleed the system. Red, If you have a mate that's bleed braking systems before then give it a go, otherwise go to a dealer , I don't think I have to tell you how important the braking system is on a 390 kg bike are !!!!!! Cheers Mark