Anyone got one or had anything to do with one, any info would be appreciated.

And no im not interested in a whole motor,i want to bore the cases and build something on what i got.

 

 

chriso, that's the way I did it but did a lot of additional stuff during the machine shop process mostly to the heads. I started with a new set of SE cases so I could keep the old motor.
You can chop and change the kit to some degree, gears instead of chain drives, smaller combustion chambers.
My advice would be think very carefully about the compression you can live with and select the correct cam. Mine is over the top for me but fuck it's fun. It runs hot but I cooled it down with a set of fans, work fantastic. 2 X 10 row jagg's didn't help it but the fan sure does. It gets cooler while idling now at the lights. 5000kms on it and still perfect but it's coming out soon and the stocker is going back in.
Pick a good cam plate and oil pump, find some one that REALLY dose know what they are doing for the machine work. Your pipe and throttle will just about do it, can't remember what A/C you have but get the best flowing one you can, I tried 3, along with 2 throttle bodies and 2 pipe changes before I got it right. A lot of time on the dyno testing and swapping, took a few days at it to work it out.
Clutch will need an upgrade, Bandit Machine works Sportsman clutch for me is perfect. And you should do the comp while it's down, the new SE comp seems good, had it out last week for the alternator and it looked perfect, grind the fuck out of the inner primary while it's apart so you can get the rotor off in the future.
It will cost you a heap as I found out.
Hope this helps
cheers
Max

I did a few figures on the hot set up kit, and I came to the conclusion that a 124 long block was a better option.
You could do what ozy did, but I think the extra gain is not worth the cost.
It was around $6k usd shipped plus import.

a LOTTT more than that speedzter. If you can get a complete motor shipped for $6k grab it fast. the HSU alone costs more than that here.

was the extra gain worth the $$ ??? don't know in terms of hp and torque, in terms of experience and fun not letting it get the better of me, hell yes. Would I do it again? No fucking way.

Why not? because my kawa cost less than that motor and runs low 9's stock motor and rides much much better all round.

Thanks Ozy, ill be in touch.

Hey speedster i have looked at a number of options, building with the cases i got might be extra cost but ya keep ya matching numbers,
I will never sell the bike so it dont matter a fuck in that regard however it does help with alot of the fucking around with rego and insurance.

I never went 120r 2 years ago because of having to get the bike engineered ($1500) and the hedaches of that to get the correct engine number on rego papers.

Imagine having a smash and insurance company saying "fuck off ya get nothing ,thats a race engine in there that has not been engineered"

I know alot of blokes throw these engines in and dont think anymore of it but i aint willing to take that risk.

well there is one good thing about QLD after all. just ride into the transport office, say, hi I need a change of engine number due to an engine change. They walk out have a look right it down and all done.
Of course you do need a legit engine number and it helps if the bike looks and sounds half way stock.

is you bike 5 speed or 6 speed version chriso

I hope this thread continues on with good info, I am about to pull the trigger on the kit myself, I was going to get the heads from my stage 4 ported rather then pay for the S&S heads. Dynoharley what's your thoughts? I was going to message you as you seem to be very knowledgeable about this stuff, I am happy to get the bits together over a period of time, I have an experienced guy to assemble it and dyno it.

you close enough to go talk to Fred at Procycle, he has the machine shop connections, has assembled heaps of twin cams and will do a great tune

Also if you have a B Motor no complete motor available, Kit only for us softail guys

Cool, B motors must be a new addition, my catalog says they are not available, and so did Rollies a few weeks ago,
still interested in hearing others input into the build option.

An option in the back of my mind is a 124 using a Darkhorse/S&S crank, WFOLarry ported 110 CVO heads, Tman 662-1 Cams, CP pistons with compression to suit.

Ozy , I'm sure you realize a 120+ HP 124 is a different beast to ride than a 120hp 106.
As I said I was quoted just over $6k usd inc freight without import.

yep way different, it's that lazy torque that big inch motors have, no substitute for cubes.

at 6+k landed everyone should get one. that is a real lot of motor for that price. You did very well to get that offer I think

What's a rough estimate for the machine work on the cases fellas?

I got a figure of 1200 to 1500 today estimate only. Sound right?

Just starting to reliese the costs, crank welded, throdle body, upgraded oil pump,
Pipes, would need upgraded clutch too.

$4000 kit
$2000 machining and bottom end
$800 pipes
$1000 Clutch, throdle body ect

I'm ok with it if I'm getting mid 130s
But mid 120s ain't enough, fuck that's only
10 more then I get from my stage 4 for $4000

Hey mitch, this motor going in my softy , stage 4 is in me fatbob.
S&s crank would be good to go one would think hey.

Ozy funny you speak of supercharger mate, I have serious looked down that rd.
Watched one going on today actually.
I still can't come to putting that much HP on a stock bottom end and doing whole
bottom end plus charger cost would be through the roof

whay numbers did ya get out of yours mate?

no need to weld the S&S crank, for the hatters please list factual reports of the ones that twisted.

chriso cheaper to do the 103 bottom end than the 124 but not much, I'd bet the whole thing would be cheaper

get the TTS Maxi Charger drives off the cam side but not of a small bolt as most immediately jump to say

https://www.facebook.com/pages/HDMaxi-Charger/422533427876785

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSdUZPbAbT4

here is an email discussion I had with them a few months ago.


Thank you for your enquiry.
Answers to your questions.

It will only work with late cam plate and roller chain cam drive, sorry.If you don’t have it then the Screaming Eagle kit is what you want.

The breathers work as they always did but instead of breathing into the Plenum chamber (which replaces the airbox) I use banjo bolts and let it breathe out the side between the plenum and the head. I take breather pipes off and feed into the air intake. Very neat. The plenum mounts to the stock RBW throttle or cable throttle body. As long as the 3 bolt holes are in the same place as the original then any throttle will fit. Remember you don’t need a big throttle body as the air is compressed it will get through a stock throttle body with no restriction. To give you an idea. I make the same power on 8-% throttle as I do 100% throttle opening. SO a big throttle won’t give any advantage.

You can buy straight from me. We ship all our 63 different supercharger kits all over the world, its not a problem. The price for an early buyer is a special £2800+ £200 shipping AUS. = £3000. IF you want polished or black or polished/black combo its an additional

£200.

We are about 30 days from finishing the first batch, just waiting for the sprocket production run to come through.

I hope this helps.

Regards Richard



As for mine I have been flogged down on here before about the numbers so here is a link to the tuners face book site. I figure if he is prepared to post it up there for all to see along with all the other clients he has he must be confident his equipment is right. He did spend a few years installing, setting up and calibrating dyno's so I think he knows what he's doing. He just tunes it for me apart from some good advice he had nothing to do with the spanners

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https://www.facebook.com/pages/ProCycle-Dyno/49297479169

it is what it is