Anyone know how much oil a 2012 Street Glide has in each leg, also what viscosity is the std oil.

Mate I can only tell what the fork oil capacity is in a 2009 EG, which is 10.8 oz ,(320 ml) per fork. From what I remember stock is 10w and SE Heavy is 15w . There is also a SE Heavy Duty, I take it that would be 20w.
I've got a pic and a write up of a guy replacing the fork oil on a batwing fairing bike if you want it. I'll just have to search some old files on the computer . Cheers

I found the pic

And the write up.

Cheers mate i am told its 317ml and yes you are correct in saying that heavy duty is 20w. I am told its way to thick for our fantastic Aust motor cross tracks! 

I would not recommend SE heavy duty fork oil, had it in my softy for one month and did not perform well, when I drained the forks to replace with belray the SE oil was black and pissy,IMOP belray fork oil is a superior product.

Picked up a litre of Motul 15w today so will start the job next week. Seems like the ignition removal seems the only tricky bit.

Pauly,  I got into a real shit fight when I first removed the ignition switch .  Nothing would line up , it would lock but could'nt get the key out,  etc.  These a great vidoe of a guy removing the ignition switch on a late model street glide on You Tube, (Google "removing ingnition switch on harley" , and you should get it ok.   You dont need a special tool ,  a large  flat screw driver that fits down the shaft is all you need.

The guy in the video uses a home made tool.   He removes the ignition switch with the handle bars in the locked positon.   If you can change the fork oil on both forks in the locked position thats good.  If the left fork is a bit tight (because the bars are locked), just insert  your large flat screw driver until it bottoms in the igniton shaft and makes contact with the "bottom tag", and supporting the bars turn the screw driver clock wise until bars are free.

When finished fork oil change, insert flat screw driver in shaft . Move bars to full lock position ,  With the screw driver making contact with the bottom tag turn screw driver clock wise, at the same time wiggle the bars and the bars should lock. ( Everything should be aligned the same as when you removed the switch)    Now the ignition switch should bottom all the way down. There is a lock on the bottom of the switch that has to be depressed with your key , and then locked with your key when the switch has bottomed in the shaft. (this is explained in the video) .

I hope you can understand all that !!!!      Here are some info and pics giving advice installing ignition switch when everything is mis aligned in the shaft, may be of some use, it helped me alot   !!!!   Cheers.      

In the 3rd paragraph there is a mistake when locking the bars, it should say turn screw driver ANTI CLOCKWISE , not clockwise . I don't know how to edit the post, and here I am giving all this advice !!!! Thanks

Thanks for your on going help. I have never had the ignition to bits so your info could be very helpfull at the end of the process. You may well see a shiney thing go sailind over your place if things dont go smoothly..........

Do you know if the "tang" on the bottom of the ignition switch is a "pull" or "push" to remove?

Don't know if your referring to the detent tab, (lock ) underside of ignition switch, or the bottom tang (or tag) which is for locking and unlocking the fork lock for the handle bars, which is at the bottom of the ignition shaft. The top tang ,( which is approx. half way down the shaft ), is the ignition selector, ie , the click you hear when you turn the ignition switch. The "tangs" are not removed, they have to be aligned properly if need be, by rotating ,(with a flat head screw driver), to the correct alignment.
With regard pushing and pulling, when removing and installing the ignition switch there is a bit of that, but it will just pop up when removing , and when installing, if everything is aligned and you have the bars locked, the switch will just fall into place. It may sound complicated , but if you watch the video I mentioned above every thing will fall into place.

Have all the bits and pieces and have had the ignition off and on several times will jack the bike up and do the fork oil in the morning.

Hey Pauly, did the instructions regarding removing the ignition switch make it an easy exercise , or should I tweek the instructions for others ??? This can get confusing when you try to write up what your thinking !!!!
Look forward to hear your experiences re fork oil change . Cheers

Took her for a 200klm run after doing the forks. Much nicer to ride and certainly tracks bettter over the local pot holed goat track. Well worth the effort

Good to hear your project went to plan and your happy with the results. Cheers.