Ok , pads are out of my 08 Fsxtc ... the Tatt hand ... { not mine } ... is my old pad while other is brand new genuine Harley ... the obvious question is how the bloody hell could this happen .

Quick back story ... not long before Xmas had stone in belt so had it replaced and at the same time had new RC Components rear rotor put on as well as new suspension ... all good untill  pretty recently started to notice a bit of a rubbing noise from rear wheel ... wasn`t all that loud but thought better have a look at this ... but of course i had to go for a ride .

Some of you may have seen the lower pic of bubbled tyre i posted recently ... time for new tyre me thinks ... took wheel off and while i was at it got some Lyndall pads and put them in which of course meant taking out old ones and seeing the old bent ones .

The only thing i can come up with is the guy who put the wheel back on after sorting stuffed belt and putting on the other stuff didn`t put the locator lugs in the locating slots which meant that when the pistons pushed out against pad the lug end bent against the inner caliper ... the confusing part is the one in pic is the one the pistons push against ... the one not in pic is bent as well but in the opposite direction to the bent one here , but that one on a 08 Fsxtc rear caliper dosen`t move so how did it bend ... and if he did the same thing and not locate it correctly then it should have bent the same direction as the one in pic .

Have been to 3 different Harley shops up here and no one can explain how it happened ... one strange theroy was that the guy in his frustration actully bent the lugs out himself because they can be a bit of a pain to do easily and by doing that he could sit them in there slots so he could get wheel back on ... i don`t know about that one , just real strange ... Rotor ended up getting warped as well carn`t say for sure due to this problem but would seem likely .

Anyhow any thoughts good people ... Tim .

Any idea what sort of pressure is in the back tyre, looks intersting how it has failed

Yeah Pauly , probably running to low , had it at about 36 to 38 ... tyre guy reckons I should of had it at 42 to 44 and he also said I ran the tread to low which I must admit sounded a bit strange as I have other tyre over the years down to the canvas nearly and never had that issue .

Bent pads, warped rotor, After new caliper installed and found at time of new tyre replacement, The finger points at the mech who did the work methinks, Or his apprentice. bugger. That's a new one in my book too.

I run my Wideglide tyres at about 35/36 front and 37/38 rear...Maybe too low???

Yeah it was young off sider who is not there any more , wonder why ... shop owner real cool and offered to cover my losses but have decided to let it ride and he is going to do the right thing by me on future work ... definitely seems to be one no one has seen as yet .

Sparra , I was same as you , thought 36 / 38 rear was heaps ... same tyre guy and others to be fair reckon I should be running 38 / 40 front with the above mentioned 42 / 44 rear .

The tyre looks to me like a cord failed in the carcass resulting in a section of delamination. Nothing to do with being slightly bald but could be due to a lower pressure. I have seen similar but heaps worse on a tyre that was run whilst flat and when pumped back up had delamination blisters around the outer edge of the sidewall. That's my theory for what it's worth. Run tyres at 10% more than what sticker says.

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Definitely some strange shit going on there..
Another reason why you do your own work.

Sorry i was no help

I run 36psi on my front, 42psi on my rear, on 2010 Muscle.

road glide 36-38 front 40-42 rear.
Those pads were definately bent at install. no way for both pads to bend outwards on that end while they are fitted and the brake is working. The only way you were going to get them out is with the wheel out of it.
wasn't the ginger beared fellow was it?

Ha Ha Ozy ... you got it first go on the possible culprit ... that's the only thing I could come up with , that he physically bent the lugs himself so as to make it easier to reinstall rear wheel , but might never really know ... but like I said shop owner real cool so no dramas from my end just a bit of a bummer loosing my RC Components rear rotor which of course matched my front rotor .

The only real advantage if you could call it one was that I got the rotor via M & M cycles when the dollar was pretty good and got it a fair bit cheaper than what was available here at the time ... of course due to my Vanity and impatience when I bought my Lyndall pads off Rollies he just happened to have a Ride Wright rotor for sale that had simular pattern so bought that one ... the RC one was called the Imperial and the Ride Wright one was called the Windmill style ... bit of a difference but was a ok price and down the track will get a 2 piece rear rotor to match the front .

Thanks all for tyre pressure advice ... with new found advice might get some better mileage out of tyre ... the bad one from above only got 11,500 K`s and the tyre guy said I should have changed about 2,000 K`s earlier ... I Don`t do the same K`s as I did when I was a bit younger but I still mange about 18 to 20,000 K`s a year so at that rate I would be getting 2 rear tyres a year ... Fark , Lol .

Tim .

Yea he was never going to last Boss was never happy but as he said what do you do anyone any good already has a job.
I think the current boys are spot on and a real good team going. There is never going to be any issue with that shop putting things right, but it really pisses him off that it has to be done again.

Glad it seems to be all worked out
Lyndalls are real good pads IMHO for stopping and not depositing that mongrel brake dust over every thing.

 

Must be some thing wrong with my bikes I never get that sort of km's from them. 10k is a myrical 5-8k is usual