Hey All, I have imported my bike from the USA and I need to disconnect the front (only) indicator lights as it's current configuration (USA model) has them on permanently when the ignition is on. I am hoping to get the bike blue slipped tomorrow or ASAP and as far as I am aware, in NSW they need to be off for passing the RWC checks.  Currently, the right or left (front/rear) will flash when you select either left or right signals and all will flash when in hazard mode. I have the schematic wiring diagrams but I am wondering if:

Anyone has done this and knows of the easiest way?

Has had any problems with pins or connectors?

Do I need to change the wiring harness from inside the front nacelle to the indicator sockets?

Any advice is appreciated.

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If you get desperate and just need them off for the inspection, pull the globes out.  What did you buy?

Magic! Sorry, I read it as he wants them off for good.  My bad.

Ha Ha Ha, my thoughts exactly... I have a 09 FLHRC... pretty good deal and fairly easy to import for me! I need the running lights off (front indicators currently stay on when ignition switched on). The indicators need to be working for the blue slip inspection (only flashing when selected). I am checking the wiring schematics at the moment.... P.I.T.A...

Thanks...

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Can't help you really but great choice of bike.

Do you have a test light?

My sporty is an import.

The the front globes have 3 wires, earth, indicator and running. The globe has 2 pins at the end.
I would chase the wiring from the indicator and unplug the running light wire from the harness under the tank.

I was under the impression that and post 88 or 89 bike had to go through a RAWS (?) inspection, and these guys do all of this for you. Is this not the case?

That's what I'm trying to get at with the test light. Follow the wiring from the indicators, unplug the connector, turn ignition on and test from there.

Hey Guys Thanks... I figured it out late last night, I did see that I could pull the 15 amp lighting fuse for my system and it would be 'supposedly' ok! This did cut the power to the front running lights via the supply blue wires to the front indicators and rear tail light, I thought win, win, win, as all the indicators will still have power applied from the TSM (computer) to light up the turn signals. The problem is that (I noticed later at inspection) was that the tail light was not on unless the front or rear break was applied and that the licence plate white light was not on at all... understandable, so the way ahead now for me is to remove the two pins (3 & 4) from the front 6 pin connector - 31A in the nacelle, this will keep them from being on permanently unless the hazards are on or I turn the left or right signals on. The rear license plate light will remain powered by the 15 amp lighting fuse (I re-replaced) and all should be sweet NOW with the running lights off!

What I didn't know is that the front passing lights (side spotties - as such) are only allowed to be on when high beam is selected as this is what I've been told by the inspection guy! This is reversed to the way they do it in the States but my thoughts are... I'd be thinking more lights are better than 1 as long as they are not high beam and impair the oncoming drivers eyes... I need to check how the stock road kings passing lights work in Australia... Are they only on when high beam is selected or all the time??

Anyway, I have it all sorted and just need to get in a do it... the guy that I did my blue slip through was very helpful and although I need to rectify some minor things, he was great! Hopefully I can be on the road by the end of next week.... Once again, Chaser and Deadwood... cheers! Thanks a lot for the offer Balsoffski.... I appreciate the offer to help out, that's great mate!

Just for info, I have the Customs Dynamics LEDs installed and I am pretty adept with a multimeter and reading wiring diagrams so it's doing the work and stuffing around that is the pain in the butt.... so in ref to the RAWS, I brought my bike in under a personal import after owning it for 2 years overseas... so all I had to do was get it shipped and pay GST on my import... no stamp duty thank fu#K!!!!

As an update, all seems good but I have to fit a compliance plate from Niddrie Plates... get it re-inspected and rego should sweet, then it is CRUISIN time..... Can't bloody wait!

Thanks all for your help once again!

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Hey Guys Thanks... I figured it out late last night, I did see that I could pull the 15 amp lighting fuse for my system and it would be 'supposedly' ok! This did cut the power to the front running lights via the supply blue wires to the front indicators and rear tail light, I thought win, win, win, as all the indicators will still have power applied from the TSM (computer) to light up the turn signals. The problem is that (I noticed later at inspection) was that the tail light was not on unless the front or rear break was applied and that the licence plate white light was not on at all... understandable, so the way ahead now for me is to remove the two pins (3 & 4) from the front 6 pin connector - 31A in the nacelle, this will keep them from being on permanently unless the hazards are on or I turn the left or right signals on. The rear license plate light will remain powered by the 15 amp lighting fuse (I re-replaced) and all should be sweet NOW with the running lights off!

What I didn't know is that the front passing lights (side spotties - as such) are only allowed to be on when high beam is selected as this is what I've been told by the inspection guy! This is reversed to the way they do it in the States but my thoughts are... I'd be thinking more lights are better than 1 as long as they are not high beam and impair the oncoming drivers eyes... I need to check how the stock road kings passing lights work in Australia... Are they only on when high beam is selected or all the time??

Anyway, I have it all sorted and just need to get in a do it... the guy that I did my blue slip through was very helpful and although I need to rectify some minor things, he was great! Hopefully I can be on the road by the end of next week.... Once again, Chaser and Deadwood... cheers! Thanks a lot for the offer Balsoffski.... I appreciate the offer to help out, that's great mate!

Just for info, I have the Customs Dynamics LEDs installed and I am pretty adept with a multimeter and reading wiring diagrams so it's doing the work and stuffing around that is the pain in the butt.... so in ref to the RAWS, I brought my bike in under a personal import after owning it for 2 years overseas... so all I had to do was get it shipped and pay GST on my import... no stamp duty thank fu#K!!!!

As an update, all seems good but I have to fit a compliance plate from Niddrie Plates... get it re-inspected and rego should sweet, then it is CRUISIN time..... Can't bloody wait!

Thanks all for your help once again!

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Hey Guys Thanks... I figured it out late last night, I did see that I could pull the 15 amp lighting fuse for my system and it would be 'supposedly' ok! This did cut the power to the front running lights via the supply blue wires to the front indicators and rear tail light, I thought win, win, win, as all the indicators will still have power applied from the TSM (computer) to light up the turn signals. The problem is that (I noticed later at inspection) was that the tail light was not on unless the front or rear break was applied and that the licence plate white light was not on at all... understandable, so the way ahead now for me is to remove the two pins (3 & 4) from the front 6 pin connector - 31A in the nacelle, this will keep them from being on permanently unless the hazards are on or I turn the left or right signals on. The rear license plate light will remain powered by the 15 amp lighting fuse (I re-replaced) and all should be sweet NOW with the running lights off!

What I didn't know is that the front passing lights (side spotties - as such) are only allowed to be on when high beam is selected as this is what I've been told by the inspection guy! This is reversed to the way they do it in the States but my thoughts are... I'd be thinking more lights are better than 1 as long as they are not high beam and impair the oncoming drivers eyes... I need to check how the stock road kings passing lights work in Australia... Are they only on when high beam is selected or all the time??

Anyway, I have it all sorted and just need to get in a do it... the guy that I did my blue slip through was very helpful and although I need to rectify some minor things, he was great! Hopefully I can be on the road by the end of next week.... Once again, Chaser and Deadwood... cheers! Thanks a lot for the offer Balsoffski.... I appreciate the offer to help out, that's great mate!

Just for info, I have the Customs Dynamics LEDs installed and I am pretty adept with a multimeter and reading wiring diagrams so it's doing the work and stuffing around that is the pain in the butt.... so in ref to the RAWS, I brought my bike in under a personal import after owning it for 2 years overseas... so all I had to do was get it shipped and pay GST on my import... no stamp duty thank fu#K!!!!

As an update, all seems good but I have to fit a compliance plate from Niddrie Plates... get it re-inspected and rego should sweet, then it is CRUISIN time..... Can't bloody wait!

Thanks all for your help once again!

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So if safety and being seen on a bike is important, why the fuck do we not have running lights like they do in the states? My 87 import still has running lights and I am not changing that, although I really need them on my other bike as cage drivers cant hear that one with stock pipes! There are some dumb fuckers making rules out there!

Sorry about the triple post... I don't know how that happened - maybe it was the beer!

Do the Aussie touring bikes have the passing (front spots) lights on permanently? The guy doing my compliance says that all three can ONLY be on when in high beam (2 x Passing and 1 x Headlamp) or when used as fog lights without the main headlamp on - dunno how that works?

I am confused as the passing lamps can not be changed to high beam so why would the 3 on low beam be an issue if they are adjusted correctly.... and I can't find the NSW lighting rules for bikes?

Any advice is appreciated... cheers,

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What wattage are they?

If they are low wattage, tell him what they are the USA version of our driving lights and not spotties.

Just like those annoying LED stip lights new cars are coming out with.

They sem to be on all the time.

 

On my 2012 ultra, I have the aux lights on all the time when i'm riding cause i choose to, they do have a switch to turn them off. They are unaffected by high or low beam on the headlight. I think he may be wrong. They are not spotties after all! The more lights to be seen the better IMHO on a bike! 

Cut the Blue wire

Thanks for your inputs guys... I have LED lights that are set up properly and I would never go back to stock... I agree with having more lights to clearly identify hazards at the side AND on the road (as long as they don't dazzle oncoming drivers), as opposed to not having enough light.... What a stupid bureaucracy we live in that does not allow bikers to be safer on the road. Maybe some of the policy makers should ride the Hume highway south of Canberra late at night with a stock headlight.... see if they can see the crap on the road let alone the kangaroos that want to jump out at ya.... it's bullcrap!!

Anyway, rant over.... carry on to the left!

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Thanks for your inputs guys... I have LED lights that are set up properly and I would never go back to stock... I agree with having more lights to clearly identify hazards at the side AND on the road (as long as they don't dazzle oncoming drivers), as opposed to not having enough light.... What a stupid bureaucracy we live in that does not allow bikers to be safer on the road. Maybe some of the policy makers should ride the Hume highway south of Canberra late at night with a stock headlight.... see if they can see the crap on the road let alone the kangaroos that want to jump out at ya.... it's bullcrap!!

Anyway, rant over.... carry on to the left!

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UPDATE: I finally got my bike passed on the NSW Blue slip and the scoot is now fully registered, but there were big issues with the RTA.

When I went into the 'RTA' the lady behind the counter told me that I had to pay stamp duty on my bike as it was being registered for the first time in NSW and because it was an import.... WTF!!! I paid stamp duty when I bought it 2 years ago in the USA and I paid customs 10 percent GST on my purchase price when I imported it... I thought I read 'somewhere' that as this was a personal import and I owned it for more than 12 months overseas, only the GST was to be paid and normal costs for rego, plates, greenslip and my own 12month insurance.

The Fu#kers wanted to slap me for 3 percent stamp duty at market value as it was new to NSW, I almost went postal.... the supervisor and operator finally relented and I paid it on my US 'purchase' coverted at todays rate (x 0.90), the supervisor wanted to do it at the US/AUUS exchange rate from 2011.... I laughed and said no way... but still.... this doesn't seem right that I had to pay 3 percent anyway!

To add insult to injury the girl didn't even know how to calculate 3 percent of the purchase price and she was around 30-35 years old!! They both blamed the stamp duty on the Office of State Revenue... I asked them if it was the same for bringing a Qld bike into NSW and they said no... it was because mine was an import. I seriously got the impression that they were making it up as they went along...

So question is what's the correct answer and if I had to pay the extra.... so be it! If not and they stuffed it all up, what is my recourse.... I will be calling the office of state ripoffs, I mean revenue!!

Any experience or advice will be appreciated!

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