Couple of questions for the Old skool mob.

1942 WLA has apparently 6 volt electrics. Some bikes were upgraded over the years to 12 volt.

I have recently purchased a WLA that was bought by the owner back in 1986 and has been run once since. The guy who originally bought the bike has passed onto the next world so his son sold the bike to me. I have no history of the bike except for when it was bought and last run.

I have the time and place with the said bike and can now look at trying to start it. Has no battery.

How can I tell if it is 6 or 12 volt?

Have looked at spark (plugs) and I am getting no spark. Purchased 2 new plugs and still no spark.

Do I need a battery to get spark?

Workshop manual says to chuck it in second with the ignition on and bump start it. (if battery flat)

Do I need a battery installed to complete the circuit to get the spark at the plugs?

From what I remember, my old Kingswood would fire with or without a battery if I rolled it down a hill and bump started it. Does the same apply for the bike?

All help appreciated.

Mag

 

Check your Globes that will tell you if it is 6 or 12 volt,

Interesting but still confusing. Was going to check the globes but wasn't sure if this would give a definitive answer. Checked them and found some interesting details.

Tail globe is a Mazda brand made in England??? Cannot make out voltage.

Headlight lens in Bosch branded made in Australia?? Globe in branded with Japan but no make or voltage stamped!

dead end on that one.

Magilla 

Speaking from experience, no battery no go. Everyone I know who has restored these side valves has had endless trouble sorting out the electrics - VERY ironic considering there are about about 7 wires in the wiring loom.

12V would have definately been an upgrade! Upgraded generator, regulator, battery and lights. If the upgrade has been disguised properly the "untrained eye" would have difficulty spotting the upgrade. Pop the relay cover off (small box on the front right) and check if you have the original dual coils in which case it is still 6V. If the regulator has been upgraded to an electronic one, because the old ones are notoriously unreliable, check what is looks like
6V - looks like this http://www.flatlandmotorcyclecompany.com/Solid-state-relay-6-volt-4785-38-Prodview.html
12V - looks like this http://www.flatlandmotorcyclecompany.com/12-volt-regulator-Prodview.html

I suggest you dont stuff around with a local substitute battery, order either a 6V or 12V battery from the US or Europe. IMPORTANTLY Get yourself a tricklecharger - I have the CTEK XC 0.8 6V charger on mine - remember no battery no go - I pushed mine enough times to confirm this fact! 

The generator uses 3 brushes, the 3rd one determines how much output the generator provides - again I learnt this the hard way, but I finally got it right. Everything will seem fine but the battery is discharging, and once its discharged below a certain point, well you stop and call a friend!

Some supplier links you might need :
www.jwboon.com (in the Netherlands - got heaps of stuff from them including my last 6V battery) They send it dry, have you have to have it filled at a place like battery world, because Repco/ SuperCheapAuto wont sell you battery acid - well at least not in Qld
www.flatlandmotorcyclecompany.com (in the states)
www.45restoration.com (also in the states)

Feel free to ask questions, if I can help I certainly will, and oh yeah post some photos!

Cheers

 

 

42WLA34375.
Purchased August 2013. Only just sighted it in the flesh last week. Can't find much about its history. Bought by a guy at a Gold Coast (Australia) auction back in 1986. Started once about 12 months ago. Bought it from the buyers son as the father passed away. Have checked Australian rego history and no record of it ever being registered in Australia.

On the ignition switch there are numbers stamped on it. 4527 .44. Anyone know what these numbers indicate? See pics.

Looks like its 6 volt.

Mick I would give the guys at Darwin Classic Motorcycles a look at it, im sure you will pick up a lot of info from them

Looking at your pics it is a 6v system , numbers on switch may be part number last two numbers everything Harley is design year, some places to contact everything flathead here in oz are Mark Austin Pacific Harley Trading and Redferns in Sydney , Colt at Harley Development in Melbourne and possibly K&M in Adelaide. Other Flat Head Freaks may be able to suggest other shops who deal in early HD. And yes as previously stated no battery no go , when you do get it to run make sure you pole your genny. You can get repo flat head manuals and l am sure you can get them from one of the crowds l mentioned. Also yours looks to me it is the WLC which is the civilian model, but l may be wrong

looks like a good project - "everything" seems to be there. Seems to be a civilizied WLA as the fenders are civilian fenders with the side valances
- not sure if those are the original tins. From the relay photo its a 6V system.

Remove the spark plugs, pour some oil into the barrels and leave to sink in. Kick it over a few times, oil will probably "gurgle" (you'll see what I mean) from
underneath the engine (crank relief), just above the front header exhaust - thats normal. Keep kick until its stop gurgling - that means
the oil has been pushed back up in the oil tank. Remove and replace oil - I use Penrite HD 50-70 - works well summer and winter here in Qld

I would remove and clean the petrol tank (left half) and clean it properly before putting it back.
Once you have the battery you can kick it over and try and start it.

Happy days - should keep you out of trouble for many many evenings/ weekends and holidays ;-)

Cheers

oh yes, the numbers on the toggle switch dont mean anything - well at least not to me. Check of the left hand side of the motor -
first two number indicate the year of manufacture, last four digits are the serial/series number. Frame doesnt have a number - Some people
copied the engine number and placed it on the frame to make the registration process easier

Cheers

Fuel?

Does it need the lead additive?

Sorry walka, have left the Territory and currently travelling around OZ for 14 months. Bikes in Brisbane at the in laws. Hence why I have only just seen it in the flesh.

Probably wont go down the road of buying a battery to start it. Only here for another few days and then off we go again. Dunno when we'll be back this way so the battery will just go to waste.

 

Yep, lead additive, to help lubricate the valves

Yep, lead additive, to help lubricate the valves

Can't help myself. Want to hear this thing running.

Need a 6 volt battery.

Manual says 6 volt 22 ampere hour and all I can source at the moment is a 14 ampere hour. Is 14 enough?

Anyone know where I can source a battery to fit the bike? Brisbane area would be good.

Any ideas?