I have a 92 softail and have had it for Afew months (first hd) after asking where the drain plug was and finding it I tried to undo the screw with the torque bit and the centre is now fu##ed and the scew is in there tighter then a nuns nasty. I tried cutting a slot in the plug and using a impact driver to get it out and that didn't work either so can anyone tell me my options from here.  

can you get a tight 1/2 " drive hex bit into it and then use the impact driver again,

also try a little heat, as in hot air gun, (not flame),, and maybe some direct impact to the plug,,,, be careful.

 

Failing all of that, you may be in for the big drill out !

I'll try the heat gun but a 1/2 anything won't fit as its abut a 3/8 plug at most. Can I remove the chrome gear box cover on the side and suck the oil out some how and renew the oil after I put the cover back on and work out the plug problem inbetween the next service. And I've just bought redline heavy duty shockproof gear oil that's the best stuff to use so I've been told.

Sorry, I should have said 1/2 " drive Hex bit that fits the plug,  You may have to persuade ( tap, knock, belt) an oversized hex bit into it.

 

The other option you mention can be even easier, just go to SuperCheap or Repco and buy a suction tube and withdraw the oil from the filler hole.

I did that but only got 275mls out. I looked at the break down of the box and seen that there's two slots in the bearing housing and it looks like I might be able to suck out all the oil from the bottom slot if so I don't have problem doing that every time I need to change the oil it will cost me $15 extra each time for a gasket for the cover but it will stop me from f##king up my case on the box that's if it will work. I'm sure I'm not the first to come across this. I will try the heat trick when I get a new plug but in the mean time I just want to know its got new oil in it. I hope I'm not sounding rude. I yet don't want to fu#k shit up.

Wazza, agree with all the comments above. You could try a straight fluted easy-out but if you do, select the correct drill bit. The straight fluted gives you the option to be able to slightly tighten the plug and disturbing any locking compound on the threads, possibly making it easier to remove. The method I use is, insert the easy-out and tap the end with a hammer several times then try to undo the plug. ( tapping the easy-out will crack any locking compound)Again its up to you how you want to approach the problem if you try it have a spare plug to replace the old.Worst I can think of is if the plug and case is alloy on alloy, over tightening can weld the two together job becomes harder and heat would be your best friend.

Wazza, agree with all the comments above. You could try a straight fluted easy-out but if you do, select the correct drill bit. The straight fluted gives you the option to be able to slightly tighten the plug and disturbing any locking compound on the threads, possibly making it easier to remove. The method I use is, insert the easy-out and tap the end with a hammer several times then try to undo the plug. ( tapping the easy-out will crack any locking compound)Again its up to you how you want to approach the problem if you try it have a spare plug to replace the old.Worst I can think of is if the plug and case is alloy on alloy, over tightening can weld the two together job becomes harder and heat would be your best friend.

Ok there's an up date on where I'm at. I pulled the side cover of( chrome cover) and I was able to suck every last drop of oil out through the holes. I tried heating up the plug with a heat gun first but and it won't move I'll have to use an easy out at some stage to fix the plug I'm just worried I might drill right through the plug then I'll have metal shavings in my box I guess if I do I can flush the box out with 4ltrs of kero to get all the shavings out.

Old timer I have one of those easy outs here I'll give it ago next service.