Hey guys,

I have been running in my new 2014 FLHRC and have done 1200kms so far. As you know from my previous post, I have been having problems with a lack of acceleration - particularly in 4th and 5th gears on the highway.... roll on the throttle and the bike doesn't accelerate. First and second gear doesn't seem too bad, but the bike has no passing power on the highway.

Took the bike in for its first service and told them about the problem. Told them to look at the clutch as it was suggested that it might be slipping. They looked at the clutch and didn't seem to think that was the problem. They plugged the bike into the digital technician thingy and discovered a "flat spot" between 2500 and 3500rpm.

So they tell me that it needed "re-tuning".... I questioned this because the bike is 100% stock and I assumed that the factory tune it is delivered with should be perfectly right and give me no trouble at all until I made changes to the intake / exhaust. The service manager tells me that it's not uncommon, and some bikes need to have this re-tuning done at the first service.

Should I believe what they are telling me?   Or is this BS?  Thanks for any advice.

 

It might be possible. It will be under warranty, so it shouldn't cost you anything to re-flash the ECM. I doubt it would be anything to do with clutch slippage.  You'd know for sure if the clutch was slipping.

Yes it is covered under warranty. I was more concerned with their explanation that it was"not uncommon" that a new bike needs to be re flash ECM because the tune was not right? How can the tune not be right on a brand new completely stock bike?

Could be possible, had a triumph rocket three that had a 3yr older computer installed by the factory!
 

Sounds like a nice bike stick a 2-1 on her and let it roll.

The map on a stock, factory fresh bike could very well have been loaded from their one map that has been created for that model, not that particular bike.

Sure, they do a dyno check in the factory and the operator may have just run it up to max power in 3rd gear and didn't even see your lack of acceleration in 4th and 5th.

Understanding a dyno run is different in every gear as you have different power levels for each gear at the same rpm.

I wouldn't be too worried about it. Most factory maps on bikes are a rich mix to be on the safe side. How do your plugs look?

When it comes to tuning every bike is different. In my opinion, have the re-flash done by your dealer now under warranty and then when your warranty runs out go for an aftermarket tuner + exhaust and air filter. You'll love it!

Ok thanks, but I have had 3 new bikes in the last 5 years and the factory tune was never a problem. I just find it hard to believe that they could load the ECM with a problematic tune in the first place?

The excuse the service manager gave me was that every motor is broken in differently and that after the first 1000kms the factory tune may no longer be suitable. .. Does that sound like the truth or bullshit?

I just want to know if I'm being hoodwinked and I have to settle for a less than perfect motor.

Hopefully they were able to give it a flash , or can tune . Does it ride better now ? Persevere Adam , it will be a great bike .

You haven't said if the problem has been fixed ?

I'd like to know how the "digital technician" tool found a flat spot between 2.5-3k ?
I also wonder how they decided the clutch was OK.
Was it run up on a Dyno or test ridden ?
It all sounds a bit sus

Anyone able to add anything before I go in and pick the bike up? Should I be concerned (pissed off) that the bike was delivered to me not tuned properly from the factory?

I wouldn't be too concerned...They have already said there is something wrong and as it's under warranty they should sort it out...

G’ day Adam, I will try and describe the issues we went through after the delivery of the Road King 2010. Bike felt great and couldn’t be happier, decided for the following weekend we would do a road trip and run her in over 3 day trip. After the second day on the bike full time I noticed a dullness in acceleration on the highway, as I was always varying speed below and above signed limits, it wasn’t as noticeable at low speeds but just didn’t feel quiet as peppy . Straight back to the dealer once home, they done first service and couldn’t fault the bikes tune nor did they pick up any issue on test ride. Week or so went by and each time on the bike I noticed more issues, from cold the bike felt great and even mild throttle felt good but soon as it got to running temps the dullness was there.
Back to the dealer, bike was left with them, after repeated test rides the issues where noticed, conveniently on return from their test ride the bike blowed oil out the air cleaner and over heated on their driveway. I was distort after hearing the news but also glad it happened to them and not myself.
Dealer was excellent, and organized brand new top end from factory, only bummer was the wait. Nothing was noticed on pull down, motor was reassembled only to find same issue, had everyone fucked. They ended up finding abnormal amount of oil in a dry sump were the scavenger pipe apparently had the wrong o-ring fitted from factory, it would fail to keep seal at higher rpms leaving to much oil round moving parts creating friction or drag, Hence the dull response which seemed to get more noticeable over time. The story seemed to stack up against what you could feel while riding, the cold oil would fling and hold against sides or anything until viscosity changes with rising temps. Bike has been excellent ever since.
I really hope this has nothing to do with your issue, but just thought I’d share my experience with you.

Thanks for sharing your story mate. Sorry to hear of your trouble, but glad that they were able to get to the bottom of it and fix it all under warranty.

Your bike's symptoms sound exactly like mine, but I'm hoping it's not the case. I pick up the bike tommorow and am planning on taking it for a really good test ride. If it has any hint of the old problem, straight back to the dealer, where they can keep it until it's right.

Cheers, Adam

Thanks Hilly. That's good to know.

one of the problems with the new bikes and the dealers I have noticed is the wide range of acceptable bike performance or behavior.
Seems the range from the best to the worse acceptable is very wide. You feel it's not right they ride it and say "all good mate they all do that".
There is just to big a range for them to get away with IMHO.

Yes... "they all do that" is something I've heard before from dealers. I'm on my way now to pick the bike up. We'll see how it goes

I was able to take a decent ride from the dealer on Thursday and to be honest I couldn't tell much difference. I headed out to the highway and gave it some throttle and I still think i have a problem. If I twist the wick 2/3 of the way the bike responds but if I then twist it that last 1/3 all the way to wot - there's no further response.
I spoke to the guys at the dealer again and they told me I was lugging the motor. I didn't think acceleration from 3000rpm was lugging? I sit on 110 in 5th and they advised me that if i want to accellerste or overtake then i should be dropping it down to foufth gear so the revs are up high... not sure I agree?

Adam
As above the FBW doesn't work like cables as the engine has to catch up to the computer before it gives you more fuel/air under certain throttle positions. These bikes need better flowing exhausts and air cleaners to let the 103 cube engine breath. Once the engine is breathing you need to invest in a tuner to give the engine more fuel and air as they run lean from the factory to pass the EPA. Most dealers will only drop a factory map into the bike and then tell you its been dyno tuned for $400. That being said my bike was gutless from new and while its was under warranty they checked and rebuilt the engine a few times for leaking crank cases. I got sick of it and had a mate check it over in his independent shop and he found one of the lifters was bleeding down causing my bike to be sluggish under power. It could be a number of issues sumping, lifter, injectors and the list go's on. To me it sounds like your engine is corked up with stock pipes, air cleaner, tune etc and you need to pay the harley tax or go aftermarket. With a new exhaust free flowing air cleaner and a decent cam you will pick up 25/25 or more with the right components.

I think the best thing as mentioned above, is to have a dyno power run
And this will tell you what's happening.
There is also the possibility of sumping as mentioned by 113King , again it should show on the dyno.
Shouldn't cost much more than $100.

Thanks for the advice guys.

I have it booked in for a dyno check at an independent shop in a week or so. Hopefully whatever is wrong will show up.

Cheers,
Adam