Ando recently posted a dyno chart of FYO's 124, It makes 133 and 129 std from a motor that came from the states not built here as I understand.
I have been building a 124 over the last few months and it is being tuned in a few weeks time so I have been watching results all over the place but there aren't to many here in Au to review.
 
Earlier this year with my 106 (120/120) I was disappointed that I came no where close to what they were making in the USA with what appeared to be bolt on kits from any which shop you liked. In the end I took more out of it and detuned it to 115 from memory so I am not a number chaser perse.
 
In USA. they show 124" charts with 140+ SAE for create 124"s all the time with almost no motor making less other than S&S advertised results (125/125) for 124 HSU kits, Star Racing who do the motors for S&S claim 135-140 hp, I would have expected Star and S&S to make every effort to come up with the best numbers. Why Star claims 10 -15 more than S&S just on assembly I don't understand either.
While a builder can get a little more from it a lot of charts claim to be CRATE motors.
 
I know you don't ride a chart and numbers mean little if it rides like a pig. It seems like no one comes close to the USA guys from any configuration of motor. I just don't understand what the fuck is going on. We have access to the same parts, have some fantastic machinists and engine assemblers, tuners that know what they are doing but still we come up short. The UK and here are about the same results but still 10-15 behind the USA. I seen a chart yesterday at 152hp / 142ftlb SAE from what was a drawn out build and countless hours of tuning but essentially a normal build spec
 
I don't really care but some guys may go down the path of questioning their results and chasing more on the belief that they have come up short of the norm.
 
Any ideas as to why the results are so different ??????
 

climate shouldn't be an issue with SAE results. There are to many different shops coming up with results for it to be a happy dyno

Oz, I reckon you need to ask, what fuel is in the US builds when they dyno it, what exhaust is on it, maybe open pipes, is there an alternator on it with the headlight blazing away etc. Then look at the dyno chart. If it is a D Jet 250i then (if nothing is wrong with the dyno, which is rare) the charts are very comparable, the operator is the most variable thing out of a person, a dyno and a computer. S&S 124s vary a fair bit too mind you. I have had quite a few over the years and they range form 126/7 hp to 138/40 hp with the same carb and pipe combo. They are supposed to be the same motor but they do differ in results. You do not ride a dyno sheet for sure, but the exh comparo dyno graph I put up here recently shows one way of having a staggering variation of the same motor, just with plumbing issues. I have recenlty done 2 120R Hurricane headed bikes, all the same gear except for different pipes. Max HP was 150 for one and 148 for the other. The one with 148 would go heaps better as a rider, the pipe made more torque in the rpm range where one rides the bike. I do not know what your build is, but you have some guys who are knowledgable hepling, so you should be right.

Mate I know if FYO want numbers and not worry about tune quality he could go to other places in Perth and get an increase of 10%

what I am say is other dyno's in Perth so 10% higher numbers 10% of 130 puts it in the 140's

the old dyno debate has been around for ever what fuel,what dyno ,what tuner blar,bar,blar it the same in the car industries
why does my car make 400+ 0n that dyno and only 370 on that one as I have said and the gurus before to many different factors

 

ozy the yanks allways have higher numbers has been that way forever even before the net in mags

In the end .... the key thing is once you find a good Dyno jockey, you should stick with them - assuming the equipment remains the same over the years etc.

Hi all...Didn't Hoodeng do a 130/130 106ci ????????.Maybee the yanks have more engine builders like Hoody and Australia has very few like Hoody.

close, I think it was 130 /115 STD or there abouts, still bloody impressive. But it's the only one I have seen like that. You maybe right they may have more guys like lushy and hoody but that don't explain the regular difference in numbers.
any way I am revising my target down but as long as it rides how I want it to it wont be coming apart again.

However .... My one is still bigger than your one!

and your point would be ??

Lushy gave a good explanation.

Daddytracer56 raced & road a carb twin cam dyna about 01 model 5 speed that had a D carb , made 145hp on a DJ250i ran back to back ( i was racing in same class at the track on day he did this ) he ran 9.9 138 mph 1.5  60ft time no wheelie bar no air shift no ignition cut out just foot shift, could ride that bike on the street had shocks & HD fraim the black dyno don't lie

you won't see any like that in usa they like all the tricks & like long light weight fraims not stock HD. but if you just want good dyno numbers, find a good tunner & get some nitro.

 

Krash I'm not disputing the talents of some of our engine builders, tuners or riders. My observations are that the yanks have 120+ 106"'s 130hp 120"'s and 140+ 124"'s like goat shit. Most of them are in tourers since that seems to be their bike of choice, we seem to go softails or dynas which on a track as you alluded to should give us an advantage.
We have a few very good results and better than the yanks in some cases but they seem to be rare cases, mostly from the top builders for their own use.
I am not chasing numbers but a ride result, that ride dose will need to get around a descent number though and I am starting to think I will come up short again. If so I don't really know what more I could have done with this motor.

I read all the build specs I could for particular dyno sheets and although they don't list everything you can get at least the major components. They don't seem to be using anything special that we can't. Head work maybe the major difference but we have some fantastic guys in that area also. They also seem to go for high static compression and what I think is high CCP in most cases and don't report any issues although quite a number claim to be low compression builds with great results also..I have tried the high cp ccp path before and didn't like living with it that much.

And no I wouldn't be adding a bottle to it for the street but I have seen a number that do. If I was after easy extra hp I would be adding forced air. But I do know from experience in a ute I once owned long ago that "full throttle hit the bottle" it is a hell of a lot of fun, well for a few seconds

Ozy I thought you had a 106 in prior to the 124. What did you do with the 106 parts?

I'm not sure but the fuel might be different, they are imperial and we are metric. So the numbers you see the fuel rated at or calculated at might not be the same. Some people were trying to get the fuel we have changed and the base fuel to become what we call 98 or at present premium (PULP). Might be why they (USA) complain about the ethanol blend being rubbish, but here one of them is 100 rated which is a bit higher than our premium of 98. Jap import cars sometimes need the timing changed to suit our fuel as well so they don't ping which would mean our fuel is lower than Japan's as well.

USA fuel is rated by AKI (anti knock index). Australia it is done by RON (research octane number). So its a different set of numbers for the same fuel in each country. There are other rating systems as well so it can be confusing, apples and oranges, the numbers are not comparable easily.