Hey Nev, Its a case of going so far and it's not quite right. So in getting it right, I might as well make it more reliable and stronger at the same time. At least i get my parts for a good discount.
I will get there. Under 2 K we see me out with these additions. I wil give the 4"SE' muffs a go first after i have done all this and then see. Thanks for the info on the s&s cans. I have taken the leg guards off but no discernable difference.
Reading a bit on head gaskets and squish, I used the big boys calculator to try and get some more results. But not knowing some specs like the 10.5/1 SE forged pistons. What  cc's are they as SE doesn't tell you. Some say +6.5 cc, other s like big boys cals says  anywhere from +11.5 - 13cc. Thats a huge difference. Anyone out there measured them?

And the SE factory ported CNC heads. What chamber volume are they? I have read 85cc but i have read a lot of things lately. Who do you believe?

Also need to know deck height. When I open it up I will check then.
Thanks for the info and I will ask more questions don't worry. Hutch

Thanks Nev,Mark and Max  for helping me so far. Great blokes.
Who in oz sells the cometic .030 gaskets.

 

serco in Brisbane is the distributor and may do mail order. Be aware some of that stuff only comes in a 10 pack from them.

some one on here can surely arrange a single set of HG's if that's what your after

Serco Motorsport Ph.073362 6600
108-114 Steel St Capalaba

Thanks Mark for your info once again. My theory, albeit a bit unnecessary or expensive i agree, is to rid the engine of this valve train rattle. Flex in the combo of parts could be a factor, as would incorrect pushrod lengths. Roller rockers, by their design are more efficient. I have them anyway so i might as well use them. I don't have the forged rocker supports and wont get them.
I like the term "rubberyness". Haa, i think mine would fit that description
I was going to keep the SE PF pushrods but now realize that they probably are the primary cause of the rattle. Therefore I will get some adjustable pushrods as it will eliminate any slop, as suggested by all but one person i have spoken with.
Now, which ones, lets keep it simple and go with crane. They have adjustables, and ones called time savers. They are both adjustable but the first mentioned are 3/8 dia, and the later are 7/16 dia. Which ones do i get out of these two.
In dealing with squish and head gaskets, is it true that the most of the twin cam's have a deck height of -.010", coupled with a standard HG of .045". so if this is the case, my squish is approx .055" which is not desirable. This is why i have to measure the deck height when the heads come off. If my deck height is zero lets say, then getting a HG to suit would be the go? Or do i have to know the chamber volume of the heads and the cc of the pistons and throw that in the equation also?
I agree on the compression test and will see about that to.
S&S mufflers noted.
Some members might ask why i'm doing this and may think i'm going too far with it, but the reason is to get the bike running right. Because ATM, with the ST4 kit, it isn't running as it should. Some kits do, mine does not.
By doing this i hope to achieve the following:-
1/ Reduce or eliminate valve train rattle.
2/ Get the bike running cooler and less restrictive by decat and deflap the headers.
3/ Get a good tune after all of this and eliminate pinging.
4/ Make the bike more reliable and more enjoyable to ride.
Thanks again fellows. Hutch

Edit. Compressed head gasket would be different so .045" standard would compress by how much?

I'm hearing ya's. That's the point exactly. What they say it should be, and what your engine is, are different. That why its good to check it out I suppose.

Sound advice I can't dispute there thanks Mark.

I have used plasti guages before but I should have some soft solder layin around. Just gotta find the right size or I buy some.

I reckon and i think can have a holiday this time around!

^^^^^^^^^^What is all this rubbish about^?^^^^^^^^^^^^

OK so you have had 6 weeks or so now. So where are you at with all of this???

Hi Max. The plans changed a tad but so far a good result.
I did the exhaust and bolted it back on to see if it made much of a difference. Slight note increase but bike still pinging and getting hot, rear cylinder still cutting out in traffic from the eitms.
(engine idle temp management system)
The rear shock was leaking. I took the bike in to the dealers to get the shock replaced under warranty.
Since the bike was there, I felt they had a responsibility to tune it correctly as they installed the stage iv kit in the first place. So I handed over the parts i was gonna put in and actually asked them to do it.
I was being lazy and just wanted it done. Still retains new bike warranty as well cause they did the job.
I described the pinging issue and he said they would sort it once and for all as he knew how long it had gone on for.
So anyway they had it a week. I got the call to take it for a spin to see if i was happy with it 2 weeks ago. It is heaps better now and finally it goes like it should. No more pinging.
I had to get the puncture fixed last week,and went for a couple of rides through the week and another 2 hour ride today. It seems to be more responsive and is cooler. No more eitms coming on so far. No more pinging as i said under normal riding even when loading it up uphill and low revs it still complied. ( i could get it to ping when i really tried, but I dont ride it that way, and it shouldn't be ridden that way)
So in a nutshell it is more rideable, and when you give it throttle, it goes, like it should with no fuss. Nice clean free revving through all gears and only a slight burble on deceleration.
The service tech modified the existing tune on the bike and i gave him a USB stick to download the tune on to. So it has not been dynoed at this stage and is running good.
No more mucking around and now i can just ride it with no more worrying about the pinging issue. I guess you can say i took the easy way out and got the shop to do it but i have my reasons. It's all good.

Well that's a great outcome, the main thing is you can now enjoy the bike not matter how you got there. Using the dealer might be a smart thing given the warranty considerations.
A really good tune should make it better but if it's doing all the right things then maybe that can wait a bit
All in all it's a happy Christmas for you.

I think with the tune i will take a mini holiday one day to one of the tuners who understands my engine and its components, and ride back a happy chappy.

Good mate of mine here in Perth has just had a stage 4 kit put in his 2011 Streetglide

He already had 255 cams , Ventilator air cleaner and V&H big Monster Ovals , and a TTS tune by me to suit

Stage 4 kits today come with a 259e Cam , no longer a 260 apparently

Anyhoo , we retune it to a 260 TTS calibration to suit the stage 4 upgrade

Using a CVO Cal for a 2011 off we go , cubic capacity adjusted in the tuning constants ( if you've used TTS that makes sense, if you have'nt it's gobbledygook sorry !!)

Bike has a " flat spot " midrange and lumpy idle to boot , especially cold

Fuck me it dawns , bike STILL has the stock headers with catalytic converters !!

Cut and shut weld , $200 all-up and she's all good .

He then buys a SEPST and we fit that up to it after I put his stock OEM cal back in

Why did he buy an SEPST after all that time ? It comes with " Canned MAPS " to suit 259e cams and TTS didn't , not in MT7 form anyways.

Now it FLIES , is it faster than my CVO Springer ? That remains to be seen haha....