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POLISHING FORKS.

POLISHING FORKS.

bahl
11 years ago

wheels are next but needed a ride, small job to get them off, yeah she scrubs up all right for an 18 year old, all by hand scotti, coco says fucken woof stew.

06 Softail
11 years ago

Great job Bahl, they look better than new, and you wouldn't have believed how badly pitted they had been. Well done.

06 Softail
11 years ago

Hey Scotti, how would one go about polishing the std cast finish centre of the rear wheel on my Softail? I had thought about getting it chromed, but can't justify spending 500 bucks or more for the sake of it.

Cheers.

scotti
11 years ago

Never actually chromed anything mate , but think it would have to be prep'd in a similar way and to even get a decent polished finnish you would first want to smooth out that textured surface maybe with coarse sandpaper on a small nuematic orbital sander or even a small disc type sander until its smooth before then using finer wet and dry style sandpapers on the same machine or foam block by hand to remove the deeper scratch marks left by the coarse sanding but avoid gouging or if doing it by hand avoid rubbing in the same spot in the same direction over and over as so ya don't get warped looking visible finger marks in ya finnished surface , before polishing , definitely made much easier with the wheel off of course and the hub sealed or masked up so no filings and shit can get in , then nothing quite gets a surface polished to perfection or smooth like a machine can , ya just got to get one that fits the area easiest and practical to complete the task , finishing off any areas that the machine can't do , by hand if necessary , I reckon the heat generated by machine buffing along with the buffing compound helps mould the surface Finnish smooth , whether paint or metal , then it can be hand finished to perfection using a softer polish for that glassy smooth almost 'wet look , sponge type buff pads work well when buffing confined areas , with less grabbing but ya do have to be careful with what sort of cleaners you use on alloy when washing any excess compound or polish off or ya can ruin the polished finnish and forever polishing stains out , and there could also be other ways but I have buffed up plenty of cars painted and metal surfaces this way , but hope that helps anyway hey ?
Cheers

Colstah
11 years ago

When I was a kid, and I rode a pushbike, we used to have like a loop of leather that was positioned around the centre of the wheel, inside the spokes, so as the wheel turned the leather ring tended to stay more or less still, and thereby 'polish' the inside of the wheel (or the outside of the centre, if you see what I mean).

Maybe that would work, '06, and be sorta automatic at the same time?!?

Sprinter64
5 years ago

Just to revive an old thread, I got on the turps last weekend and had a crack at getting rid of the fork pitting on the RK. Forks came up alright.
Made a vid too - managed to edit out most of the profanity lol.

tussuck
5 years ago

yeah its a pretty well documented process. Just takes time to do.
The MOST important thing is to use good protection once you have the alloy polished as its just going to start to corrode now that the clearcoat is removed. Good polishes work for a while but you always end up going back to AutoSol or the like to get the shine back. Easier and cheaper to use an automotive detailing ceramic coat on the bare metal as that effectivly seals the metal. I did this with CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0 (3 coats) and it lasts an entire winter in melbourne with just a normal wash and quick detail spray. Just do not buy the cheap chitty ceramics as they are rubbish.

steelo
5 years ago

Well done sprinter. Thanks for making and posting the video. It was worth the effort. Bike looks great.
I was interested in whether it would be easier to take the forks off, or remove the cowbells (chrome bits)
Found a video

Baloffski
5 years ago

Now well done Steelo, removal piece of piss.
I like it so much, my sliders are coming out, and maybe instead of fork oil change , on the quiet, I'll upgrade fork internal components, with a polish (thanks sprinter) and a surface treatment. (thanks Tuss)

Sprinter64
5 years ago

Thanks guys, firstly Tuss, Yeh there is heaps of info on it, I did read a heap of posts about it and figured it shouldn’t be too hard, I was a bit pissed off with the pitted legs and wanted to try the supposedly easy option first, the bike is still only a 2017 model after all.
The thing is most of the us posts say this only takes an hour or two which is just wrong.

I have got a heap of good feedback since posting the vid that I wish I had before I started, the coating is the main thing I have still to do but lots of options for the right product to use, I was also recommended Shark Hide which is used on ally boats and looks good but at around $180 a liter it’s expensive.
I’m gunna research that a bit more yet.
One bit of advice I got was I should have tried using lacquer thinner to remove the coating since the paint stripper did Sweet FA and lots of posts I read had recommended that.

Steelo , cheers m8, appreciate it, I was nearly going to remove the forks and cowbells but held off for two reasons. First you can see I have a ding in one of the bells and need to change it, I saw I couldn’t remove it without pulling the forks and don’t want to be without my bike for too long and was doing it outside not in my shed.

My grand plan is actually to get 2” over tubes and do it properly as Baloffski says, I looked at getting the slugs, cheap as from easyr but I will go with the full tubes and race tech springs, new oil, adjusters and a set of cowbells.
So this was kind of an exploratory mission, it can be done cheap and looks better than leaving them pitted but I will probably take the lowers to a pro polisher and get them treated when I do, I think it is probably money well spent and will look better than new chromed lowers and still be cheaper anyhoo.

Smokey61
5 years ago

Just my two bobs worth, once polished, you'll be polishing regularly.

I cleaned up my fork lowers, but instead of polishing, used a scotchbrite pad horizontally to make a finish more akin to the original. Not quite brushed aluminium, but more of a satin finish.

Lasts months between polishes and looks factory.

brucefxdl
5 years ago

Quoting Smokey61 on 09 Aug 2019 11:15 PMedited: 10 Aug 2019 03:29 AM
Just my two bobs worth, once polished, you'll be polishing regularly.

I cleaned up my fork lowers, but instead of polishing, used a scotchbrite pad horizontally to make a finish more akin to the original. Not quite brushed aluminium, but more of a satin finish.

Lasts months between polishes and looks factory.

although i prefer polished alloy,thats a nice finish,easy to keep it that way to i'd guess.good job smokey.

Muzza Wa
5 years ago

They look great guys! Dumb question....I sat down one day and polished my primary, no matter how much I polished, the rag continually went black after about 5 hours and two fucked shoulders arms and wrists, I gave up, but it did look good for a couple of weeks and then went dull again. So can you not put a clear coat over the top of your hard work, immediately you finished, or will the aluminium oxidise under the clear coat?

Smokey61
5 years ago

Quoting Muzza Wa on 10 Aug 2019 05:35 AM
They look great guys! Dumb question....I sat down one day and polished my primary, no matter how much I polished, the rag continually went black after about 5 hours and two fucked shoulders arms and wrists, I gave up, but it did look good for a couple of weeks and then went dull again. So can you not put a clear coat over the top of your hard work, immediately you finished, or will the aluminium oxidise under the clear coat?

I had an Evo Softy (Standard) with alloy covers. I polished the fork legs, primary, inner primary, clutch cover, timing cone, and rocker boxes every two weeks with Autosol. Desperately wanted chrome bits from a Softy Custom back then. Never got around to it. Despite the work, I liked the look.

Now I'm older, I haven't got enough life in the tank to waste time on polishing alloy. Wrinkle black twin cam with chrome rockerboxes. ArmorAll and Mr. Sheen. Easy.

Sprinter64
5 years ago

Quoting Smokey61 on 09 Aug 2019 11:15 PMedited: 10 Aug 2019 03:29 AM
Just my two bobs worth, once polished, you'll be polishing regularly.

I cleaned up my fork lowers, but instead of polishing, used a scotchbrite pad horizontally to make a finish more akin to the original. Not quite brushed aluminium, but more of a satin finish.

Lasts months between polishes and looks factory.

That’s a good look Smokey, I prefer that brushed look more than the full polish too. Just didn’t know how to make it.
I’m interested to give this a try before applying any protective coating. I would need to finish mine better before applying a protective coat anyway.
@ Muzza, no worries, see Tussuck’ suggestions and I was recommended a product called Sharkhide which will protect the finish and save the constant polishing.

I’ve had a lot of feedback since doing this and for sure they used some crap coating from the m8 builds.

Muzza Wa
5 years ago

Quoting tussuck on 08 Aug 2019 11:08 PM
yeah its a pretty well documented process. Just takes time to do.
The MOST important thing is to use good protection once you have the alloy polished as its just going to start to corrode now that the clearcoat is removed. Good polishes work for a while but you always end up going back to AutoSol or the like to get the shine back. Easier and cheaper to use an automotive detailing ceramic coat on the bare metal as that effectivly seals the metal. I did this with CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0 (3 coats) and it lasts an entire winter in melbourne with just a normal wash and quick detail spray. Just do not buy the cheap chitty ceramics as they are rubbish.

Missed the bit about the CarPro CQuartz.....thought it was yet another magical aluminium polisher...does it hold up to heat, I.e. if I put it on my primary cover will it work the same as if I put it on my forks?

Muzza Wa
5 years ago

Quoting tussuck on 08 Aug 2019 11:08 PM
yeah its a pretty well documented process. Just takes time to do.
The MOST important thing is to use good protection once you have the alloy polished as its just going to start to corrode now that the clearcoat is removed. Good polishes work for a while but you always end up going back to AutoSol or the like to get the shine back. Easier and cheaper to use an automotive detailing ceramic coat on the bare metal as that effectivly seals the metal. I did this with CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0 (3 coats) and it lasts an entire winter in melbourne with just a normal wash and quick detail spray. Just do not buy the cheap chitty ceramics as they are rubbish.

Quoting Muzza Wa on 12 Aug 2019 04:15 AM
Missed the bit about the CarPro CQuartz.....thought it was yet another magical aluminium polisher...does it hold up to heat, I.e. if I put it on my primary cover will it work the same as if I put it on my forks?

I jumped on their website and could not find any specifications on their product range, so I’ve left the below message for them...
..Good day, do you make a product to stop engine covers from oxidising? Like aluminium covers on motorcycle engines, that are subject to high engine operating temperatures?...

I’ll update the forum with whatever response I get.

tussuck
5 years ago

Quoting tussuck on 08 Aug 2019 11:08 PM
yeah its a pretty well documented process. Just takes time to do.
The MOST important thing is to use good protection once you have the alloy polished as its just going to start to corrode now that the clearcoat is removed. Good polishes work for a while but you always end up going back to AutoSol or the like to get the shine back. Easier and cheaper to use an automotive detailing ceramic coat on the bare metal as that effectivly seals the metal. I did this with CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0 (3 coats) and it lasts an entire winter in melbourne with just a normal wash and quick detail spray. Just do not buy the cheap chitty ceramics as they are rubbish.

Quoting Muzza Wa on 12 Aug 2019 04:15 AM
Missed the bit about the CarPro CQuartz.....thought it was yet another magical aluminium polisher...does it hold up to heat, I.e. if I put it on my primary cover will it work the same as if I put it on my forks?

No, its not a polish at all. Its ceramic coating used in car detailing which I have found actually seals polished aluminium VERY well (the ceramic sets like a thin layer of glass - but a lot harder, over the surface)
I use it on rims, primary and cam covers and forks (plus paint obviously). It would not use it on exhaust related stuff like pipes, headers or even chrome exhaust covers. But am playing with it on the Screaming Beagle slipons on the bike

Muzza Wa
5 years ago

Quoting tussuck on 08 Aug 2019 11:08 PM
yeah its a pretty well documented process. Just takes time to do.
The MOST important thing is to use good protection once you have the alloy polished as its just going to start to corrode now that the clearcoat is removed. Good polishes work for a while but you always end up going back to AutoSol or the like to get the shine back. Easier and cheaper to use an automotive detailing ceramic coat on the bare metal as that effectivly seals the metal. I did this with CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0 (3 coats) and it lasts an entire winter in melbourne with just a normal wash and quick detail spray. Just do not buy the cheap chitty ceramics as they are rubbish.

Quoting Muzza Wa on 12 Aug 2019 04:15 AM
Missed the bit about the CarPro CQuartz.....thought it was yet another magical aluminium polisher...does it hold up to heat, I.e. if I put it on my primary cover will it work the same as if I put it on my forks?

Quoting tussuck on 12 Aug 2019 04:55 AMedited: 12 Aug 2019 04:58 AM
No, its not a polish at all. Its ceramic coating used in car detailing which I have found actually seals polished aluminium VERY well (the ceramic sets like a thin layer of glass - but a lot harder, over the surface)
I use it on rims, primary and cam covers and forks (plus paint obviously). It would not use it on exhaust related stuff like pipes, headers or even chrome exhaust covers. But am playing with it on the Screaming Beagle slipons on the bike

Good on you mate. Here is the response from the company.....
Hi
first thing you should check how well is your cover coated by clearcoat
if its thick enough
beside that , the cquartz uk is great against uv and oxidation, in high temp too.
but only if you have removed well the oxidation existed already

rgrds
Avi

So there we have it.....

tussuck
5 years ago

Quoting Muzza Wa on 12 Aug 2019 04:15 AM
Missed the bit about the CarPro CQuartz.....thought it was yet another magical aluminium polisher...does it hold up to heat, I.e. if I put it on my primary cover will it work the same as if I put it on my forks?

Quoting tussuck on 12 Aug 2019 04:55 AMedited: 12 Aug 2019 04:58 AM
No, its not a polish at all. Its ceramic coating used in car detailing which I have found actually seals polished aluminium VERY well (the ceramic sets like a thin layer of glass - but a lot harder, over the surface)
I use it on rims, primary and cam covers and forks (plus paint obviously). It would not use it on exhaust related stuff like pipes, headers or even chrome exhaust covers. But am playing with it on the Screaming Beagle slipons on the bike

Quoting Muzza Wa on 12 Aug 2019 03:21 PMedited: 12 Aug 2019 03:21 PM
Good on you mate. Here is the response from the company.....
Hi
first thing you should check how well is your cover coated by clearcoat
if its thick enough
beside that , the cquartz uk is great against uv and oxidation, in high temp too.
but only if you have removed well the oxidation existed already

rgrds
Avi

So there we have it.....

Agree, surface prep is all important (for paint and alloys)
Just do the normal polishing of the parts with sandpaper until you get it to the shiney you want, wipe down with hot soapy water or Isoprop Alcohol (this step removes ANYthing left over from the sanding etc and makes sure you have a pure clean metal surface to deal with) and then ceramic coat or polish with what ever product you want.

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