Lot of motor talk here on the Forum . Lots of clever people who have done it all before .

How about a condensed listing of engine mods to motors with cost and power /torque figures .

Thanks in advance , Tim .

if you ask me its cam's, CC heads to desired compression ratio, 1.9 intake valve into heads and a .030" head gasket

This will get you 100/100

if you do the wrenching yourself this will cost you under $1500

Ando

I've always been a fan of lots of torque all from low in the rev range. With the work you describe is any engine around the 100/100 going to be a top end screamer or can it be pushed down the rev range to be a stump puller?

On another forum they are talking about stage 4's using oil...has anyone on here heard of this???

Has anyone on here blue printed and balanced their engine?
Was there a significant difference in performance?

 

Cheers for that Chriso...Forgot that was in there...

Not a great deal of info mate but some more opinions on what could be causing the problem

Install a turbo....

My turbo is back from repair and goes on tis weekend! The guys matched it to my engine setup so she shoudl fly now!

 Hey Chriso, 

Not the same question, but I saw on a previous post you have your lights wired up so both come on low beam and on high beam. How would I go about this as I don't like the one side light.

Cheers Tyrone

TY351: Go look in the Dyna section, its all there, very easy to find...

I just did a friends new Ultra. Stock 103 from the factory, 74hp. Took out the cat, added S&S touring mufflers, air filter cams and tune. went to 99hp. I thought that was a pretty good result. Not worse at any point in the rpm range. him and his wife love it, it is not loud and goes real nicely.

Ando. As he was doing drag racing, not street riding I cut open the pipe and mechaically removed the cat. This would be illegal on a road bike so I could not advise you to do this unless drag racing. Just did a switchback for Doc Rob's wife Jane. I did not fit the cams but did tune the bike and the D&D 2 : 1 worked a treat with that. 104 hp, but not as much torque as the cams I used in the Ultra. Ask Deano to give ma call if he is doing your job or PM me. You don't necessarily need to add comp for a bang for bucks deal with the new 103's.   Oh BTW the S&S cans were not loud at all, can't see a policeman worrying him.

I am doing the work and Deano with do the tune, My uncle has stock header pipe and the SE Muffler ( Trapp replica) Nightstick I think its called

But the cams are Redshift 575 (41* intake closing) we will put in a 1.9 intake valve, get them to 82cc and a .030HG, did this build on a Softy 103 and got 99hp and 108 torque ( different pipe).

Got the cams outa the Softy as he went 107ci with wildthing cams and WFO heads.

So whilst it was down we are looking at pulling the CAT outa the heada pipe

The Nightstick/stock headers is to be polite, dissapointing. Just did a 103 with N/stick/no cat and cams, did about 90 hp, changed to D&D  exhaust and retuned, no other parts 104hp. A valid back to back comparison same bike both tunes by myself.

I have not done a direct comparo on the switchback with the cat. On a street bob losing the cat  adds 3-5hp depending on the build, 4 in the midrange on a stock V Rod. The D&D 2:1 is the only one which fits a switchback apparently.Due to footboards.

Bang for buck and long term endurance id stay away from the s/e stuff. Twin cams need need to be stripped down completely. Cranks need to be welded , trued and balanced. Have the left hand bearing fitted. Go for a billet cam plate and fuelling oil pump. If your not going to do this your just wasting money.

I agree in a perfect world, the crank work you mention
Is probably worth it for bigger HP motors, but to say
You must use a billet cam plate and fueling pump is
Is totally wrong.