I just replaced my break line with new ss line and new chrome master cylinder and its driving me nuts!!

I used the reverse method - used a syringe and pumped fluid up from the bottom. Filled the reservoir and no matter what I do, I can't get the handle firm. I can only manage to get it about half as good as it should be.

So I pushed all the fluid out through the nipped and did the entire process again,... still not firm.

So now I have used an elastic band and secured the handle in under pressure - I have heard that will work overnight!

Any other ideas??

Thanks Mike,

I tired everything today mate - even had the Mrs out there squeezing the lever for me.

I have taped off the lever tonight and will check it out again in the morning. As I think about the brake line, I think the line may have a high point after it comes out from under the neck. So tomorrow I will see if I can get it sorted.

Cheers
Mongrel

Hey Mongrel

I had the similar problem, after I got a bit of pressure up, I took the old girl out for a run and kept sqeezing the brake on, I found this bought the pressure up good.

I think the riding pushes the air bubbles up and out of the system quicker .

Thanks Bakes.

I did just that. Rode it around for a few days and then bled it again. Seems to be pretty good now.

The ride to Thredbo today will let me know.

Cheers
-J

Hey boys, by arse this happened. After fitting a set of bars and having the same problem with bleeding as everyone else I was was flicking the the lever to get the brake light to turn off. Pulling the lever in quickly and letting it flick back. Then I noticed it had a full hard lever, spongy as shit before. I took the top of the MC off and drained the fluid again to see if I could replicate the fix. I noticed that the first say half an inch movement of the lever pushed a heap of fluid out of the small hole in the MC. Bled the system as standard practice, pressure on the lever, crack the nipple and repeat. Spongy as shit as usual, flicked the lever for half a minute and the viagra lever returned.

I see said the blindman. I tapped the caliper, I tapped the line, I tapped the master cylinder. I even thought of tapping it with a 2lb negotiator at one stage it was peeving me so much. Thanks Mike, this works well.

when you have finished the job get hold of a 10ml seringe fill it with brake fluid place it over the hole in the m/c and inject it in while pulling the lever in it work s the rubber om the seringe goes of but t you get it done

I have only done this on the bike once but from experience with another vehicle that a lot of people have issues with bleeding the brakes  (the old VW Beetle) there a couple of things to watch out for and fix before working up a sweat on what you're doing wrong.

First check on disk brakes is that the piston seals are not jammmed or corroded onto the pistons! If they are, the pistons will be pulled back from the disks too far after each application and so make the brake handle feel like it has too much travel or maybe air is in the system. If your calipers are more than 5 years old and you have this issue , it may be time to pull the calipers apart and give them a quick over haul/clean and new seals/boots.

First off, the brake line from the MC to the caliper HAS to be falling away from the MC all the way. If you have longish flex lines and they loop up higher than the MC at any point, you have an air trap and have to move things so the MC outlet is the highest point in the line.

The brake bleed on the slave cylinder has to be at the highest point . On one of my bikes that means the bike has to be on its side stand and the front wheel turned to the right- just the way it is. On an old trail bike it meant I had to undo the lower caliper mount and swing the caliper out to get the bleed nipple to where it had to be. That also needed a block of wood between the pads to keep the pistons in place.

I use clear silicon hose that is supposed to be for fish tank air supply to connect the slave bleed nipple. Otherwise I have used the reverse bleed method, but for me the tube into a jar of fluid and pump the MC handle is the method I have the most success with..

I changed my front brake hose to the braid type on friday night, i could not bleed out all the air using normal bleeding techniques, so what i did was remove the 2 support clips for the hose, removed the 2 caliper bolts, lifted the caliper above the brake leaver, i used a 19mm spanner inbetween the pads so the pistons wont come out all the way, then using a clear hose and a coke bottle i had another person press the leaver for me while i open and closed the bleeder in the normal fashion, making sure they pumped the leaver several times before opening the bleeder, it only took a few minutes untill i had all the air out, refitted the caliper and i have noticed the brake pressue to be much better than stock, i put this down to either there was air in the system before the hose swap or the stock hose really is shit and flex's.
Andrew

re use the old one's piglet, unless they are really flat. Dont over tighten the bango bolt, also keep an eye for any leaks for the next few days to be on the safe side.

I had trouble bleeding my front brake.....in the end i loosened bleeder a fair way and just let the fluid run through....wasted nearly quarter of a cup of fluid but wtf, it worked a treat.

One method I learnt was once you have some lever pressure, lean the bike on its stand, turn steering to hard left lock, then zip tie the front brake lever hard on over night. Next day release the lever slowly and give a couple of short pumps. this method also seems to work well with ABS bikes that are hard to bleed at the best of times. Pretty much what gmeikle suggested, it does work!

hey guys - a few weeks ago i sorted out most of the shitty problem that i had with front brake on my 03 and i will try this to see if i can get rid of any residual air that might be in the line - when you do this do you unscrew the Master Cylinder Reservoir or not? cheers, Numbers

best way i found was in the 70s off a ol mate ...ii got a big seringe from produce an a bit of clear hose .place hose over loosened caliper nipple an slowly draw threw the fluid ..lock nipple empty fluid into bottle then do again till all air gone

 

4 bucks for the horse or dog seringe an bita clear hose an never had a prob ever since ol mate told me done clutches on jappas an rears an just bout any hydralic brake setup even cars

great idea luke

 I don't know if anyone has mentioned this system, Get a clear clean glass jar, (Clean jam jar will do) connect a clear hose to you nipple, place jar below caliper, put some brake fluid in the bottom of jar, then place the hose into the jar below the brake fluid, so no air can travel back up the hose. Then it's only a matter of filling up your MC with brake fluid open the nipple & start punmping gentle, until all the air is out of system. You don't have to build up any pressure as gravity is working for you! Another systen is to do the same, but just let it drain on it's own, it takes longer but same results. Then all you have to do is lock up the nipple,remove the hose & away you go. Don't forget to keep checking fluind levels, & never let the MC drain under 1/4 of capacity!  By the way, if the BF is still clean in the jar, you can reuse it, If not, just seal the jar, & keep it till next time you have to bleed the brakes! Hope this has helped! 

 Cheers Hmmm. A vacume bleeder sounds like the go! How does it work?

 My My, what an angry little vegimite you are! Now listen up Noddy! I don't like you attatude, but I am going to answer your question anyway, as you are calling me on it 'Sherrif! Top up is simple to understand, even an idiot can understand that if you have brake fluid using gravity, leaking slowly into a jar, if you don't, "TOP UP" the fucker will run dry, & you will have to start the process over again!... Dah!

Now about re-using clean brake fluid.... All it says to me is that you neither have friends of family with bikes or cars, because around here nothing lasts long enough to go off! Inclucing, Jerry can of spare fuel, Paint polish, wax, engine oil, transmittion oil, Brake cleaner, degreaser,  tools, air guns Fiberglass resien, Paint thinners, etc! ....  Tell the truth, you use to be a jap owner aye?  Dickhead! 

 

all good

 

The best, quickest and easiest method of bleeding front brake line is with a 10ml syringe. Just make sure the fluid level in master cylinder is adequate, crack the nipple and pull back on syringe. Fluid getting low? Tighten the nipple, add more fluid, pump it up and repeat with the syringe. (about $4 from your chemist with a short length of 3/8 plastic tube to connect to nipple). Happy days