If you have a plastic breather gear the washer goes on the end of that, you will have to remove the push rods to let the tension off the cam, if you do not have adjustable pushrods you can either remove the heads, or the easier option cut the old pushrods and replace with adjustable pushrods, either way this learning experience is going to cost you, while its in bits you should change the cam needle bearing, a known cause of devasting bottom ends, you'll need a special tool to remove and fit this bearing, fit the Torrington not the shit INA, tools around 150 dollars on ebay for both.

If you have a plastic breather gear the washer goes on the end of that, you will have to remove the push rods to let the tension off the cam, if you do not have adjustable pushrods you can either remove the heads, or the easier option cut the old pushrods and replace with adjustable pushrods, either way this learning experience is going to cost you, while its in bits you should change the cam needle bearing, a known cause of devasting bottom ends, you'll need a special tool to remove and fit this bearing, fit the Torrington not the shit INA, tools around 150 dollars on ebay for both.

 Forgot to add, if the timing gear is plastic replace with a steel one....

cant help you with this one other than to suggest a "Manual" would be very very handy

you dont need to remove the heads just the rocker covers which are 3 peace, remove the top two and back all the bolts off in the bottom one ,make sure the breather valve is timed to the cam gear too weather you go new breather gear or not

yes the breather is on the left ,plastic washer gos on the end of that ,there are timing marks on the plastic gear and the cam shaft this is where a manual is helpfull it wont have everthing in it as its for std bikes but will help for sure if look around the site pretty sure there is a free download for evo softails some where

its in the refrance / docs section down the botom of the main page

Do you have a manual? All the items you have mentioned are covered in the workshop manual. Your a brave man to be delving into the engine without one.

because you cock the cam in the bearing you will have too replace it too make sure she is not damaged , take off the rocker boxe's 1st  then start from there,   use a torrington B-138 bearing  

In the Evo the Cam is NOT connected to the cover. On my on it has a bearing in the engine case and a brass bushing in the Cam cover. (There is a trick to getting the Cam Cover off easily and it has to do with making sure the rollers are all on the heel of the cam; that way they are not putting downward pressure on things, which can make removing the cover a pain in the butt)

By the sounds of it his problem is that he has taken the cam out and the lifters have dropped into the cam case - as they do on an Evo. The best way to get it all back is to remove the lifter blocks and lifters and then drop them back in from the top once you have the cam installed and cover on. Plus its a good oppertunity to check the cam end play.

Good point.... You only really have to remove the pushrods and then you can drop the lifters back in from the top once the cam is installed.

If the new gasket is a different brand it may be thinner and mess with the cam end play clearance, hence the comment about removing the lifter blocks to check end play  (well you only need to remove one, and that would be the front intake as its close the cam end). There can be differences in the gasket thicknesses so its well worth checking.

Adjustable pushrods are a godsend when working in the cam space.

on & EVo you can only remove the lifters from the bottom of the cam blocks , you have too pull the rocker boxes off too have the pushrods out , then lift the lifter blocks out then remove the cam cover  then replace the inner cam bearing  because you stuffed it up when you pulled the cam cover off wrong , if it's done a few klm's fit new hyd  cam follower's ,   do you have a manual

yeah....its a pain in the butt to work in the cam area if your running stock pushrods! Swapping to adjustables was one of the best things I did.