Online: paulybronco

Install, Jims Fan, K&P Oil filter

  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

    Here's a few pics and description of installing a Jims fan the other day.  I've not worked on the bike before so had a WS manual and torque wrench, both well worth the $'s.  I'd tell you how the fan it works....but I haven't sorted out the electrics yet, see below.  Any suggestions welcome otherwise I'll need to take it to the stealer or an auto elec.

    Also installed a K&P oil filter and used a scavenger for an oil change (300 k's of running it).  You'll see the scavenger pulled out around 28 oz of dirty oil.  Surprised me how dirty the oil was from just 300k's.

    Before pic showing the original horn.  After this, pulled off the seat, disconnected the negative and pulled the main fuse.

    Fuel tank off.  You can't see or smell the amount of fuel that pissed all over me and the bike when I had to disconnect the crossover line.  I knew it was coming but trying to get a line off, new sealed line on and then the short cross-over line into a container to take the tank fuel just doesn't happen (by me) without a fair bit of spill....I'd have pissed myself laughing if it wasn't going all over me...  If I ever have the tank off again I'm going to install either a quick disconnect like the tank uses or a T piece/ tap in the middle of the crossover to drain.  It was a hell of a mess and didn't help that I'd filled the tank a few days before starting this , awesome planning. 


    Horn off and thermostat in place - I chose their recommended spot on top of the cylinder head.  In this pic I have the side of the thermostat bracket aligned with the edge of the head cover.  When I was putting the tank back on I found that the tank hit the thermostat and wires so I had to rotate the left end in about 1cm and that's given enough clearance.  I'll need to check after a few rides that the tank isn't rubbing on the two black wires coming out of the thermostat.

    Next step was to replace the centre case bolt with their stud to put the lower fan bracket on.  I had to disconnect the shift linkage to do that.  They warn that the acorn nut they supply may foul the shift linkage and they give you a spare for that but mine cleared no problem.  So now the two mounting points are ready for the fan.  On the slim, routing the electrics was pretty easy, no need to cut the loom harness, it just tucked in.  Didn't jave a pic of that unfortunately.

    Deutsch 4 pin connector supplied with the fan.  The bike doesn't have any connection for it.  Instructions say to just tap into any ignition accessory circuit.  I'm not that confident on knowing where to cut into the electrics so haven't done it yet....any suggestions welcome as I wouldn't mind using it!

    Pic with it installed on the bike and also one of the K&P filter I installed as well.  Haven't used the bike with the filter yet so nothing to report, but I like the look of both of them.

    The K&P filter is smaller than the standard so a bit easier to clean around and get on and off.

     


    Last pic of the extra oil I got out with the scavenger.

    Next install is a RS Mission Air Cleaner - that shouldn't be as messy!

    Cheers, Marvin.

  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

    Thanks Hmmmm.  I found a 6 pin which connects into my PowerVision but can't for the life of me find any spare 4 pin.  Looked under and around all the wiring under the seat, even pulled off the ECM yesterday in case it was under that, but couldn't see anything.  Where under the seat is yours, sitting in an obvious spot or tucked away somewhere?  I'll feel like a DH if I finally find it, but nothing so far.

  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

     Thanks Ballof, few good learnings for me doing this job.  The chrome K&P looked pretty good on the web too, seems to be quality kit.

    No luck on finding the Deutsch 4 pin plug.  But I think I've found a spot to wire the fan in.  Thinking of using the license plate light circuit as if I screw something up, it's not a critical circuit.  It's the middle plug on the bottom rhs of the electrics photo in my post. 

    Question for anyone with a bit of elec knowledge, the plug has 3 wires in from the BCM side, active from accessory power, ground and brake light power.  Heading off to the rear LP are two black wires which you can see in the pic.  I'd like to tap into one of these as there's more wire to work with than on the BCM 3 wire side.  Question is (1) is it ok to tap into the LP side and (2) can I use either wire?

    thanks,

  • paulybronco
    paulybronco
    11 years ago

    I have a 2012 street glide and my accesory plug is right next to where i plug the power vision. Take a photo and post it , may be able to see it for you.

  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

     Pauly,

     

    Here you go, hopefully you can make it out as photo's in the dark.  Looked under the rails tonight with a torch, everywhere...nothing!

    In this shot the Powervision cable is the black into grey Deutsch at centre top of shot and sitting where the main fuse block normally sits.  The three connectors below the Powervision are LH tail, LP and RH tail.  I originally found the Powervision Deutsch plug with its rubber cap down between the battery and the ECM mount - where you see all those colored wires to the right of the PV Deutsch plug.  Cheers.

  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

    Thanks Hmmm.  In my WS manual the slim has a number of harness differences to the rest of the softails.  So perhaps no spare 4 pin is one of them.  Will look at wiring it into the license plate circuit.

    cheers.

  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

    Update

    I wired the fan in on the w/e.  Ended up using the DLC cable as the license plate circuit didn't seem to have enough power.  Pics below.

    made a cut into the accessory wire for the DLC (the set of 6 wires used for the Power Vision)

     Connected each end to a terminal and added connection for the power to the fan (heat shrink over it ready for shrinking).  Power to the fan is the round plug bottom right.

    In place after doing the heat shrink and new wire connected to the orange power lead of the fan.

    Ran it into work today and tested a bit yesterday.  Ambient temps in mid to low 30's.  The temp the fan comes on seems a bit variable, anywhere from 100c to 120c cylinder head temp but kept the bike below 120c when idling in city traffic wheras it would usually get up toward 140c.  Was obvious when the fan came on (apart from the bloody noise ), the temp immediately stabilised and came down toward the 115.

    So overall pretty happy.  Install was easy in the end once I got over the fear of cutting into the electrics.  Only complaint would be the noise, kinda takes away from the nice exhaust note and grabs a few looks when you're sitting at the lights.....just tell em its the supercharger.   However, it does the job and I'm much happier using it, unit also looks good IMO.

    Cheers,

  • wayco
    wayco
    11 years ago
    Hi Marvin,
    Nice job & great info-
    I have a laneale fan-similar sort of set up except no thermister to run fan automatically just a switch on the fan.
    I was wondering how you got the temp readings & where & what type of switch is you used for manual overide which I understand it has?
    Thanks Wayco
  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

     Thanks Wayco.

    I'm using a powervision to monitor cyl head temp.  The only override switch on the jims is just above the body and it only functions to turn it off.  When the switch is in the on position the fan will only come on via the thermostat triggering the relay.  If you want an override 'on' then you have to remove the thermostat and lose that functionality,, or I guess you could add some sort of a bypass to the thermostat.

    cheers.

  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

    Update:

    Have been running the fan now for a couple of weeks and thought I'd give an update in case anyone is thinking of getting one.  Note my bike (Slim 13, 103 stock) has done only around 450k and is still running in so perhaps is running hotter than it will once it loosens up a bit (I hope).

    Good points are that when the fan comes on it definitely lowers the head temp reading - from 130C down to maybe 115-118 when running around town in around 28-30C.

    Not as good: It seems pretty variable as to what temp it kicks in at.  Took it on a run up to Kalamunda on Sunday morning and the fan didn't kick in until over 130C head temp, and I think this may only have been after I switched the fan on and off a couple of times (thermostat then seemed to wake up and the fan came on).  Air temp in the morning on the way up was mid to late 20's.

    As I'm running the bike in I try and keep it above 2500 rpm and around 3000 with the odd squirt on the throttle up to 3500 to keep the revs varying.  As such I'm working the engine a bit harder than normal cruising.  Coming home I noticed the oil temp got up to just under 300F even with the fan on, air temp probably in the low 30's by that stage.

    So, I think it's definitely useful around town in keeping the head (and to some degree, oil ) temp down, but not as obvious when 'cruising', which makes sense.

  • Marvin
    Marvin
    11 years ago

     Thanks for that Jimmy.  Agree, all we can do is look after them properly and ride to enjoy - otherwise not much point!

  • Colstah
    Colstah
    11 years ago
    I don't know shit about those fans, but I'll make an observation about it cutting in at differing times. Could it be that with the thermostat sitting above the rockers at the front, in still traffic the heat rises up and sets it off sooner than when motoring along, where the wind might cool the thermostat somewhat, even though the engine temp is still a little high.

    If that's the case, and it concerns you, you might have to look for a position that doesn't let the wind influence the temperature of the thermostat so much when moving.