Finially got around to sticking on the new foward controls and all looks good except my clutch doesn't work.  The lever/cable is tight and has good resistance when you pull it, so I'm thinking I have to rip off the derby cover and adjust the clutch, or am I missing something?   I was told they have a little spring or something under the derby cover (which I don't remember seeing on the streetbob), but then I thought if you lost those buts your clutch would be slack and loose anyway?

not sure what the go is on tc bonkerz but why would you have to adjust the clutch if you put forward controls on ? what bike is it

Good utube vid, could have skipped a few boring bits but gets the message across well. thumbs up for newbys.

Anyone know the exact size of the lock nut on the clutch? I thought it was 18mm (which I don't have - 17 and 19mm don't fit) but I just realised its probably imperial anyway...
Ty for the info all. I can't watch the vid as the kids have used all the bandwidth for the month...grrr.

I still have NFI how its gotten oout of wack anyway as I didn't touch it. When I work the lever I can see the plate thingy moving in and out, but guess it has to be exact. I'm jinxed.

Nope, I just cut the shifter bar off since I'll never use mids again and if I did I'd just buy another lever.

Looking forward to hearing the answer to this one, I'm not seeing what the clutch has to do with installing forward controls.

Anyways, video was good, but did you notice he just put the clutch cover, chrome side down, on a hard surface!? Or am I just being anal?

Hmmm2, that's the hard way. Normally the easy way avoids all this fuck arsing around....except I'm jinxed.

And KiwiDave, I went to Supercheap and got a 10 piece set of offset imperial spanners for $15 - fits perfectly. Plus, got a set of deep socket imperials (8 in the pack?) for the same price, just in case.

And I just tried doing the clutch adjustment and no dice. I can see the little plates in the clutch moving back and forth when I squeeze which makes me think it should be working...
If I had more time I'd rip off the primmary and have a look.

A friend mentioned the cable might have been squished while jacking it up...if that was a problem the plates wouldn't move would they? Fucking shoot me!

It worked just fine, which is why I couldn't believe something was wrong at all.

I just pulled it apart (quickiest strip down in the west - using a rattle gun thingy) had a quick looksee, couldn't see anything worng, but I poked and prodded anyway, then stuck everything back on, and the oil in, then re-adjusted the clutch (going a full turn instead of 3/4s) and it seems I can now move the bike in gear with the clutch in... I can't rememeber how hard it was to push in gear before (lots harder than in neutral isn't it?), but at least it moves now. I'd risk starting it (I hate lurching foward...lol) but I'm out the door for the night.

Plllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease let this have worked!!!!!!!

I'll give it a go again tommorow if I can find the time. It's way too hard to push in gear (clutch in) - I guess I was a little pissed off before so I didn't notice how hard it was It's still beter than it was so at least we're heading in the right direction. The cable (going from memory) has a net like covering over it, but hopefully I can feel something through it.

if the lever comes in all the way and returns fully and there is no free play in it then you would think it is internal.
a damaged cable will affect the feel and maybe not let it fully return but shouldn't impact on clutch plate engagement. But as has been suggested above you should check the cable for damage especially any where near the jacking points and where you were cutting the bar

how fucking around with shifter and forward controls could stuff the clutch I have no idea.

Unless you did some damage some how when you "JUST CUT THE SHIFTER BAR OFF"

My free hour has come and gone.

First I started it (since I adjusted it to "normal" last night) and at least it doesn't move with the clutch in. But it still feels like a tank to push if I try to move it in gear with the clutch in.

Then I wasted time because my Toplift jack from Repco has decided not to lift anything, so I just got a plank of wood and straightened the bike up as best I could.

So I ripped out the old oil and put in some fresh stuff...yes, I figured the oil might be evil. Then I tried over tightening the clutch adjuster nut thingy (no good) then I made it too loose (no good)...then I ran out of time.

Tommorow I'll put it back to how it should be and I'll take a look in the other side (gearbox) again; chances are I've missed something since I have no fucking idea what I'm looking at...lol.

Oh, and maybe the bike has been like this since I got it? I don't rememeber ever moving it in gear so maybe I just didn't notice how much clutch drag there was? Or maybe not.

If the problem is that you can't push it when it's in gear,clutch in,engine not running then you dont have a problem.That would be normal.


WAZ...

I can push mine in gear, with the clutch in, but only after it's been ridden, and I wouldn't want to push it very far!!

Well that's where I am now. Before I could tell I was pushing through a "cycle" and was only margainly better than clutch out. Now it rolls if I put a little back into it. I guess that's right then?
I've been around bikes all my life and I've never noticed this...lol. Different clutch maybe, or becuase I always hunted neutral before.

The way we used to tell was to put the bike on a stand to lift the rear wheel, start the bike, change into first then give it a rev. Stop the wheel spinning with the rear brake, then release the brake keeping the clutch in. If the wheel started spinning there was too much drag and it was time to adjust the clutch...

Not sure if that's changed. If my lift was working I'd go try it :/

Jump on it you will soon know