give got a 1993 1200 xl import usa i can get a elderbrock kit with piston kit ,hifolw heads ,cams ,push rods & gaskets for $1600 in the usa looks like it would cost more to get heads done and buy other stuff by its self have done air box carby & pipes goes like a shower of shit till 120 then its all over all so get a mad death wobble at 140

So what's yah question?

is it the best way to get the best out of a 1200

Yeah....that setup wold improve things. You may need to also invest in better stopping power! That's what I'm noticing now - I'm overpowering the brakes by a chit load.

Yeah....that setup wold improve things. You may need to also invest in better stopping power! That's what I'm noticing now - I'm overpowering the brakes by a chit load. If you do the work yourself then its cheap but if you need a tech to install the stuff then it will add up very quickly.

 Old Vic Edlebrock is just another car man ripping Harley community off.

the evo heads flow as much air, those heads have a good chamber but use different shape ports. Stick with HD look Buell thunderstorm. Heads as same bolt pattern as u front mount, but get the pistons to match.

 

after talking to ronny by pass from old school custom bike repairs said he could do my heads for $500 hes in bunby

That seems way too cheap. Exactly what is he doing to the heads for that cost?

Personally I would hold off and try to pick up some Buell heads on Ebay - they are always coming up on the USA site. Postage is not that bad at times, I'm getting a turbo shipped for $50.

ive seen some for $800 buel heads that is do thay bolt stright on and do u need to get them flowed and stuff

im sticking with cams at this stage ronny said he had a set of 9.5:1 forged piston set for $250 wiseco should the valves be replaced with biger or just polished and a spring kit i know a guy i used to work for in townsville who has all head reco gear but not a harley man but if u don,t need to port the 1200 heads for what im after we should be able to do it

and what r the best size valves to fit for mid rang power from around 3 to 4500rpm

I would:
- Leave the valves as stock size, but do a nice 5 angle seat job (or even a radius if you have the gear).
- Clean up the ports to make sure there is now casting chit left in them - i actually got a Dremmel tool and blending my seats into the head and cleaned things up (but no major metal removal as I'm a noob)
- Leave the springs as stock - if your only going to 4500rpm then they should be able to handle that with their eyes closed. If your going really high lift on the cam and running it up to 6000+rpm then i would look at better springs.
- Double and Triple check the piston to valve clearances once its together just to make sure your not going to have issues.

Cheers

thanks that sounds good ill talk to old mate in the next phew days and see if he recons he can do it should i wait till i remove the heads befor ordering new valves or just get std size ive got no history on the bike and r all the 91 to 03 1200 have the same std size

Valves are pretty hard to destroy, so wait until you have pulled the heads to have a look at the valves and the seats.

They will either be okay or need replacing (and then it could be the valves or the valves and seats) - its a bit of a crap shoot with the yank import bikes. I got a set of EVO heads in from the USA and the vales and seat were shot to chit...pitted and worn; yet the valves and seats on my old 86 FXR are as good as new. I think Carbby bikes tend to run richer as a rule when compared to the EFI ones so they are way easier on the valve surfaces.

No point in spending good money on a set of new valves if they are not needed, instead invest in some good Calipers etc.

I do not think its the old leaded vs. unleaded issue here. Its more to do with the modern bikes running EFI and tending to be on the lean side. Even some of the factory carb bikes run really lean.

Combine that with the chitty gas they have in the States and the bikes ping a lot which basically destroys the valves and seats.