these 255's seem to sound and go alright, i just kept wanting him to really fang it though and it was good to hear the idle but a bit of a boring bit of footage with him sitting at the intersection for so long.

Hope you get yours sorted Shadow...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mtc4oShY1ZA

ok got a run and a half done, Some pics, 

Cam tune

Map Kpa of Cam tune notice its at around 50?

Map Kpa when Vtuning at around 40? which i believe is correct should this be different fromt he Cam one, or did the shop do some work to my ride and then deny it? (dont know if thats right just asking?)

Second run graph (first one was just idling in my car port)

Vtuned graph after blend - note i didnt extend the map when blending (check out that rear cylinder?? wtf)

I did a second run after this but it locked up half way (well maybe a thrid of the way but i did get some data).

Reset the parameters and dumped it in and went for a test ride, now being that I only moved the baffles back down the pipe and did 1 1/3 vtunes the bike is night and day I dont really care what has happened but it pulls hard now I got it up to 175kph (on a closed circut of course) and then backed off (as I was only in a T Shirt) that was about a 3rd of the way through 4th gear so I am getting happy again and might be able to get some sleep again.

Will try for another tune tomorrow or friday, not sure if it was me or somethign freed up in the bike or what,

 

Another question its running around 158 Deg C is that ok? (off the dakota speedo), only other thing is it smells a bit oily now when I get off it? any ideas? I do have a oil cooler so maybe i will have fit that what do you guys think?

Thanks for all the feedback and help, evey if its only reassuring words sometimes that calms the beast.

 

I am glad it's getting better for you man!!

what about the temp? thats way to high isn't it, is that why i am getting the oily smell after a run? 313 F? thats 156 C seems way to hot? it was running about 260 F 126 C before the cam install?

it was running about 156C even after the tune I did wind it up a bit but had to back it off coming back through town (maybe 5-8mins) thats why I said it seemed oily does have that 'cooked" sort of a smell to it, maybe I will have to get that Jagg cooler on pretty quick,

it was running nice though perfect gray pipes when I got home, but the heat concerns me it will shorten the life of the oil and engine and it nit going to get cooler here overt he next few months, is there anything I can check?

I took it for a easy run with a bit of a lap now and again and it was running at about 158C again, riding home I got caught at a light and it went up over 170C freaked me out.

What can I do or test to work out whats going on do I need to retune with a lower CLB (doc said a higher CLB would just run cooler I am thinking if I go lower it will get hotter?)

 I checked the oil after getting some gas and riding home left it for maybe 10mins and it was still really hot the oil was a fraction over full or right on the full mark depends how you look at it.

Should it be that full on a hot motor and sitting for that long?

 I am back in freak out mode thinking I still have some work to do to get this right.

 I need help ?

 

I have a Jagg oil cooler I can instal but that isnt going to help me at the lights?

It's probably not ideal, but it's not going to kill your motor.
The new 113 I just finished is up to 175C at the spark plug after a decent run, but doesn't actually seem to be overly hot.
The readings measured at the plug with an IR meter are higher than the CHT sensor though.
My AFR's aren't lean, so I need to play with timing I suspect.

I allways run the oil half way between the marks when cold. Where do you run it ?

Yeah I normally have the oil half way betwee the marks myself I was wondering if the high level would be adding to the heat issue?

 

Also another question in the cam extimater in the TTS (my cam prfile was a 3) do you go from the first original setting of 4 and click down until you get to a 3 or do you start from 2 and go up? Manual says to set it to the opening prior to your cam setting?

 

it seems to me the 3 setting has quite a wide range? would this be the issue? 

lol just posted this in the 'cam anylaser thread,
"Might have to chime in on this one, some of you may be aware of my heat issue so i started looking at all my settings again, I had original left the out setting the same as the map stated and dropped the in to make it change from 4 to 3 (as per my cam graph.
looking further into it I believe the Se255 should be 25 in and 48 out I had it set to 23 and 40 (first one on the in to change it to a 3 and left the out as stock) reading on a few other forums I believe we are suppose to set it one prior on the in and one after on the out, so i set mine to 26 in and 49 out, its 10pm so i dont thing the neighbors would want me running the cam tune or testing (not with my baffles as loud as they are) so tomorrow will tell.
Anyone able to offer some advice (I may be slow so this may have been my issue to start with? still its all good I am learning slowly.)
Still freaking a bit about the temps every time i stop tonight it went into single cylinder mode(heat management)."

And yes i set them back to original, I had no issues at all tuning the stock cam with the pipe change and AC etc I had done a few at different CLB settings and no issues with any (other that the laptop dropping the tune now and again.)

What do you make of the info above I posted in the other topic? could this be the issue?

well I am at another crossroads the shop put the stock breather back in (the heavy breathers had no oil on them? is that right?) feels a bit under tuned again low power etc? flip flopping all over the place with this running 152 Deg C now (but thats with the Jagg cooler on)

Now there is talk that the dakotoa speedo is reading it wrong? I cant see how as its showing the same reading on the Vtune etc and that is coming direct from the ECM?

A temp laser on the outside of the heads is fine? (should they be the same or hotter on the inside) any idea guys what do i do from here, I believe he only took down the top should I open up the bottom?

Should I just run it and see what happens?

Shadow
What breathers are you talking about ? Air cleaner, umbrella breathers or external breathers. Mate you gotta change your dealer or find a good indy to check there work.
Where do you live so we can give you a descent shop for advice on your build.

Oil temp with the cooler dropped about 6-8 deg, I believe the dakota speedo reads the HEad temp not the oil temp I was lead to believe that is hotter than the actual oil temp?

I was talking about the breathers in the rocker box, and I live in Mount Isa unfortunatly we dont have to many options unless we drive for a 1000k (and if the bike get s that far there cant be to much wrong with it).

What is the correct operating temp for the head? and can anyone chime in on the heavy duty breathers (in the rocker box) not having oil on them?

thanks all for offr advice while I try to sort my ride.

hi,

I hope you can get this sorted out soon brother, the open road is waiting

thanks

robots

Shadow, The Cylinder head temp that your bike see's uses the sensor fitted to the front head on the intake side.
The temperature measured using an Infrared (laser) is normally focused near the spark plug.
The spark plug reading will always be higher in temp.

If the bike sees 150c at the sensor, the Laser will see about 170c at the plug.
You say the laser was normal, what did it read ?

The oil temp' will be cooler than the head temp as well.

It's hard to give a "correct" temp as they will all vary, esp' in traffic .
The norm appears to be from 240-280f , or 110-140c at the sensor.

well after the original breathers where put back in it seems a lot better still running 152 on the head temp but from reading other posts and info here that seems about right? The Jagg cooler is helping its still going into parade mode (fuel management) now and again but not every time i stop went for a good run tonight after a few tuning runs and it got as low as 139 on the head which i think is fine in general its sitting at about 146 with air flow over the heads. I will do a couple of more runs tomorrow (back cylinder is near perfect only two cells where not white (in the center yellow around the outside of course)). It did pop on one of the decels but that was only the once. I have ordered a customjessy (or what ever it is) oil gauge of ebay so I will at least be able to check the oil pressure.
The shop said they will dump syn oil in my ride next week and he said he will drop the crank plug then so that should tell me if its sumping?

The main thing is it doesnt smell all oily after a run now smells normal and just feels a bit hot but that may be my paranoia now that i am looking for it. Hopefully some more tuning tomorrow and it should be fine. I am trying a clb of 739 this time with the last column set to 759.
It also seems to cool down quick now after I get moving so I am thinking what ever was done with the breathers may have been the issue heres hoping.
I will see where it all ends up and wha the shop says about costs etc next week.

Here is my two vtune blends first one is not extended the second is.

Shadow
I just stole this from another forum but it should interest you.


Here's the story. I had the dealer install 255 cams in my 2012 RGU to avoid warranty issues, etc… Long story on this, not worth discussing. At the dealership, I loaded TTS map DUH009-03-A0.MT8 and the engine was really down on power. Ran the cam analyzer, setting matched base map for opening setting. From a stop, it felt like I was starting in 2nd or 3rd gear. Figured that it would get better as the engine warmed up. It didn't. At that point, I thought something went wrong with cam install. Before a return trip to the dealer, I modified map EUJ009-03-A0-006.MT8, changed displacement to 103.3, loaded it and the engine ran pretty good. So, I upped the lower RPM timing a little (smoothed out idle) and did a quick Vtune. This was a quick and dirty Vtune w/o disabling AE and DE and also just running standard Lambda Table. Engine started dialing in. More power and smoother. Actually, fun to ride.

Weather broke, so I did another longer Vtuning session w/o a monitor. This was done per TTS manual for Lambda Table, PE mode and also AE and DE were zeroed out. Came up with a new VE adjusted map (EUJ009-03-A0-ProdMap-01-001.MT8).

Here's my issue. I've links below to the maps. Both timing tables the same. Map from first quick Vtune session (EUJ009-03-A0-006.MT8) has quicker throttle response and pulls better. Second map (EUJ009-03-A0-ProdMap-01-001.MT8), from longer Vtune session, is smoother, but has audible pings off idle and lacks some power. There is a marked difference in engine performance between these two maps.

Any ideas why the engine doesn't like the DUH map?
Why does the more thorough Vtuned map not run better?

Also, engine seems down on power off idle compared to other 255 camed 103s that I've ridden. Any suggestions as to what I can adjust to get more off idle power? Bump timing in off idle areas until it just starts to ping and then back it off?

First Vtuned Map:
https://www.box.com/s/pmbs1pqbnnl23qtamrvo

Last Vtuned Map:
https://www.box.com/s/0jocsnrycq5qk1ansy32

First Vtune file:
https://www.box.com/s/gbu38qe9e9na9byg7za4

Last Vtune file:
https://www.box.com/s/e8h4xh6yg5lze2zkwht9

sounds like I should have just gone with the S&S cam I was looking at in the first place, I am going to keep tuning it today but as you can see from above the rear is spot on.

Mine is running ok now once the syn oil is in and i tune it correctly I will see where I end up. Weird thing is it seems down on power now with the stock breather back in the rocker box felt like it pulled harder with the heavy breathers in but I am sure there was something wrong there as the engine smelt cooked every time i rode.

Maybe the SE255 is just a real bitch to tune correctly.

Bugger Shadow!! What did the dealer end up saying in the end?

Well did some more tuning today,
Not sure about what he reckons going back on tuesday to get them to put syn oil in and then we will settle the bill (and get the story), either way I think its not going to go well either i paid for the heavy breather and they where in wrong? or its still got issues? hes going to pull the crank plug before he does the oil I will compression test it myself when I get it back on Wednesday after work.

 He is my next few tuning graphs, still some work to do, all auto extended.
 

 There's something going on I think with the front cylinder VE. Intake leak maybe???? - Rob