Hey quick question, coming up to my first service on my Fatbob. Im leaning towards synthetic oil just wondering if there are any negatives beisde the price ( dont mind paying for quality though)

Cheers

I went to HD Syn3 at the first service with no apparent ill effects. I wouldnt bother using Syn 3 though as I later found out that it is not a true synthetic but a mix of dino and syn - 40/60 I think from memory, there is a link somewhere on here explaining the composition in detail.  Apparently as I recall it is allowed to be labelled a synthetic in the US as it "contains" a portion of synthetic - or so the story goes. Not worth the extra expense because of that in my opinion

All that said I am very much a fan of good quality synthetic oil and have used them more often than not in all my bikes over the last few years from the 1st oil change. Particularly beneficial in a big air cooled motor exposed to high ambient temps. Am currently using Mobil1 V-Twin and Redline Heavy shock proof (trans) in the FXDF and so far happy with results.

You can use any decent oil that makes you happy, either Syn' or a good mineral. As long as it's the correct weight.
It really won't make a huge difference .

Was told to hold of putting synthetic till the second service in order for the motor to bed in better. Took the advise and changed to synthetic and have noticed the difference in shifting gears is much easier and smoother.

2012 street glide

 Nice looking bike there Paulybronco, Love the Reds on the Harley's.

With the oil, you want to use Amsoil or Mobil V twin Synthetics The Harley Oil is no where near as good.

Ah Ando just for your pedantic little footstamp ALL oils including transmission were changed at service, hence the better shifting! Why dont you put more energy in assising new members with their questions than tring to be a dick!

Thanks fellas, it cost a little more but the commonality of the same oil right through swung me towards it. Thanks for the feedback

ah pauly thanks for clearing that up as ya might of confused the new members.

Jethro I am not a big fan of putting the lighter weighted engine oil into the gearbox, I think a properly weighted gear oil is what should be in the box minerel or synthetic

primary you can use a syn engine oil just ensure it doesn't have friction modifiers or ya clutch ill slip and fuck out

I run syn gearbox oil in gearbox and syn engine oil in engine and in the primary I use a syn primary oil for the SE compensator
no mentioning any brands as it will be on for young and old again

Hows that Bronco boy

Well said. Like you wont mention any brands. Have had two diffent brands and have not seen any difference between them!

Cheers fellas, the HD dealer seems to like the Syn ( mabe for the extra $7 a litlre lol) but talking to some Trumpy owners at work they are saying no full Syn until 10,000 k ? I guess under warranty it should ok I still like the commonality in the compartments though.......

Late chime in

CVO's came with Syn 3 in all 3 holes from brand new stock , always did !

That gave me the go-ahead to use Synthetic oil from the first 500K's oil dump. Different brands over the years.

 Mobil 1 / Redline HD20W60 / Amsoil 20W50 . Dependent on buying deal available at the time !

Like Ozroder, often Mobil 1 "car oil" 15W50 from Supercheap on their 25% off days. Redline for years on other bikes

I didn't need their say-so obviously, just reassurance. I'd used Synthetics for 15+ years in the car trade previously

NEVER had a problem over many many new Harleys over the last multiple years.

 So Retroman, as a newbie but very concerned about mechanical sympathy,I'd like some advice about oil -  the bike is brand new and obviously pretty tight (450klm).

At what stage would you change the initial pre-delivery oil?

Wait until the 1600 klm first service before putting in a full synthetic?

I'm in Sydney so we will have about 2 more months of cool weather so I'm inclined to go a bit thinner but would take your advice if you say leave it until say 5,000 klm.

cheers

Wayne

500Km ( max !) first oil and filter change : engine gearbox and primary all synthetic oils

1600Km 2nd oil and filter change : engine gearbox and primary all synthetic oils

4,000Km 3rd oil and filter change : " all 3 holes " again all synthetic

Thereafter 4,000K's for engine oil and primary , every 12,000 for transmission ( AKA gearbox !)

Some would say overkill, but the first 3 oil changes are the most critical in the life of an engine.

Even at 70.000 K's plus my bikes don't burn oil between services and other dude's bikes blow blue smoke and use oil.

It's just my opinion of course, but it has always worked for me

When I started in the motor trade in the UK as a boy 35+ years ago EVERY vehicle had it's first oil change service at max 500 miles ( 800 K's )

I've just stuck with that over the years on my own vehicles , both 2 and 4 wheels .

Thanks Retro and Mongrel,

So we are talking Mobil 1 @ 15W50 or similar. Supercheap are selling good bike oils these days but is there a specific oil I should be looking for?  It is still pretty cold in Sydney so I'm happy for a 15W oil but move to a 20W as the weather warms up?

Am I looking at any possibility of the dealer knocking back warranty if I do it or should I just go in early and say please change all the oils to full synth, suck it up and pay?

Would they know? Man I need a workshop manual as I'm so used to Jap bikes I dont know where to stick my thing :-).

Has anyone tried those oil filter ribbed covers and do they help the temps or the after market fans? Or do I just wait unitl the bike has run in and do the stage 1 trip to enrich the mixture. I can't believe how hot the bike gets even in single digit temps.

 The good oil, on oil.

Now many people will tell u that this oil is better than that oil or this brand better than that brand ect. Plenty people tell u that some boutique usa branded oils are better, ect,ect.

Thè common denominater in all this is, why is one oil better than another. Rarely, if ever can anyone actually tell you why one oil is better than another, including mechanics, dealers, ect. 

The only real way anyone can tell u which oil is better or not is by sending engine oil sample away for anysis by a sampling lab, such as is done with caterpiller, detroit deisel, cummins, engines, ect. And even then the sample analysis can only tell you the condition of the oil verses hours in use. The condition being, its lube properties, engine metalic particles in oil, ect. And most importantly, the anaysis will tell you when to change oil  by hours, kays, ect. Then u would have to try another brand and do the anaysis again to make an informed conclusion as to what condition the oil is in verses hours in use. Only then can u say one oils lube properties outweigh another oils lube properties, by comparing which oils lube properties last longer than anothers or which oils additives break down quicker than another oil brand.

The next time you buy oil, ask the seller why he suggests a particular brand of oil, and he will have no idea, except to say his oil is better only cause thats the brand he sells.

2nd point is cost verses benefit. If your runnung a drag car, race car, ect. u may use high end very specific oils cause of the engines operating in extreme conditions, and u may change oil every race, run, ect So the expensive oil has to work extremely well for only a short time. Its longer term properties are irrelevant.

So to newbies on harleys. You would need to see the condition of two similar engines when pulled down after x amount of kays to detirmine if synthetic oil is better than mineral oil, Allthough most sythetic oil still are made from a mineral oil base. And thie comparison would only be sort of near enough as bikes could not be ridden exactly the same way over x amount of kays.

I use a 20w50 mineral oil, cause its not too expensive and plenty bikes do 200,000 plus kays with no dramas if regulary serviced. I use it cause its better priced than synthetics and i ride my bike nearly every day with many short trips, ect This bike, ive had 4 years and not a weep on it yet.

Now its too expensive to do sample analysis on bikes and high end oils probably wont give you any real cost benefit as compared to oil change intervals.

Just dont get hung up on all the bullshit on this oils better than that oil, ect, using a standard quality oil, ( hd, mobile ect) and service every 5000 kays and your bike will go for years. And unless you can show an engine oil analysis or proof that more expensive oils have some benifit over 2 or 300,000kays when compared to cost.Then save youself a fotune and just ride the thing. Ive known people that have changed oils evey 2000ks with expensive high end oils and could of bought a new engine after 5 years with what theve spent. So whats the benifit of high expense, None i can see.

 This is an edit ive added: I actually use HD 20w50 only cause i would presume it would have high temp lube additives that would not break down as quick, somewhat like deisel oils, but ive never had a test on oil to qualify that statement. I change oils at the 5000 k mark. If this brand of oil was not good for 5000ks, then a lot of harlys would be blowing smoke out the pipes, Its irrelevant to me that the oil should be still good at 20,000 ks as it would have naturally lost some lube chacteristics anyway and ref, the 5000ks service. 2nd reason,is convenience, its available at the shop where i buy the filter. For me its expensive, but not over the top.However, there are plenty other brands that work just as well in the same price range.

Hope this makes sence.

 He He, the 15 second mark of the above video says it all.