Hi all,  Have searched this topic on site.  I can get the dealer to disable the valve open. I can buy a eliminator thingy to stop fault codes , and lock valve in open postion.  I live 350kms from closet dealer, so I try to do most minor work myself, with the help of forums like this.  What are your thought on this.  1.  Remove right Slipon muffler.  Now the valve is about 2 - 3 inches inside header pipe and accessable.  2.  Get a metal blade , on a electric saw, (or similar).  3.  Cut away the valve (flap) , so the cable from the actuator can still turn the outside valve thingy. 4.  Install right slipon muffler.    Now I have no flap in pipe , (no abstruction),  and the ECM will be opperating as if flap (valve) is still there, and no fault codes being sent.  What are your thoughts??? .  Bike is 2009 FLHT.   And yes, wear saftey googles, and make sure all loose  metal pieces are removed from muffler . Thanks Mark 

sounds like a plan to me, go for it

Good idea mate, but the valve material is as hard as fuckery. Has to be to survive the exhaust flow.

Just hold it open with a self tapper/ rivet or whatever.

No fault codes then y'see

Getting the dealer to "disable" it in the ECM as well is also good if you're at him anyways.

 Another opption is to hold the valve open as Retroman suggested and then remove the cable connecting the valve to the motor.  That way it doesn't matter what the motor is trying to do as your flap will always be open, so to speak.

FatRob.

Thanks for your replies Guys,

I have been told the metal holding the flap (valve) in postion in the header pipe is quite hard and difficult to cut and remove . That being said , it should be doable !!.   I just thought instead of locking the flap in the open position,  it would be better getting the flap completly removed so there is absolutly no obstruction in that location of the header pipe.  As well , it looks as if the Active Exhaust Valve is there and operating for the EPA police !!!  Thanks Guys  

Mate what I did was, remove the header pipe, took it to a metal fabrication shop, they cut the whole offending piece off and welded a piece of inch and three quarter stainless tube where it used to reside. Absolutely fucken' perfect and cost me $60..... problem solvered...

Hi all...I cut mine out with a die grinder.Yes the metal is hard.Took me an hour or so.

Hi Oneball,  After you cut out the flapper  from inside   the  header pipe , what did you do with the cable from actuator to make sure no fault codes were sent ??   Did you leave everything in place (just remove the flapper), so everything is working normal , just no flapper (valve )  there. ??    One hour to cut away the flapper (valve) , must be very hard steel, like everyone says!!!!      So these are my options from the forum.     1.   Disconnect the cable from actuator , and screw valve open .  2..  Remove header pipe , cut off pipe where valve is, re-weld piece of pipe to header pipe to original length.   3.  After removing slipon, cut out valve inside header pipe, leave cable and actuator to work as normal , but not operating anything.  4. By an eliminator thingy .   5.   Leave everything alone, and dont give a fuck.      I'm leaning to items 2 or 3 , as the valve is there for EPA reasons only , and i don't want this poofter of a thing restricting my exhaust system.    If anyone agrees with item 5 , could you give a good technical reason for you view.   Sorry if this is like I'm trying to find the curer for cancer or something, at least were learning more about our bikes, (I think).   Thanks Mark  

easy option lasted over 2 years so far,

a bit of twitching wire to hold it open

once removed or cut out just remeber the valve is there so it preheats motor to correct temp so all ya sensors work correctly .o2 sensors to work right need atleast 1000 degrees so warm ya bike up a few mins more before goin on ya ride o2 sensors are stainless steel an ceramic centred .i just ttok the valve assembly out on a bike and hid it under seat lol everything stoill works an if mate gets done all he has to do is slide it ove the header pipe an put muffler back on its only 2 inches longer but he has best both worlds now

I have an eliminator and have used in on my street bob. A recent issue with my pipes meant that the dealer opened the valve via the ECM to attempt to find the problem. In my opinion, there is a difference in power with the valve open via the ECM Vs eliminator. ECM valve open feels like there is more power.
Why? Perhaps the engine management is different when it's aware of it's true position... Any thoughts?

yea dave the ecm does give a change in timing an also in fuel once the valve opens youll find the engine gets more fuel once ecm gets told valve is open mainly when the valve is shut it dont need a s much fuel seein it got gasses reversing back threw if it kept same amount of fuel as if open you would get a heap of unburnt still in the top end that why i left it all intact an tucked under seat it all works as per orig after the bike warms at 5mins we watched the valve open while it was in our hand mates happy bikes happy

I know this is an old thread, but for what its worth here goes.........the way I disabled mine was to unhook the spring hook that's visible from the top and then just hook it around the small piece that holds the cable end. All done from the top, easy as, all you need is a pair of pointy pliers. The spring force on the lever is enough to hold the valve open. The usual disclaimers apply, like do not do this.