What is recomended to use oil wise for a 103 stroker, synthetic or not and what brand, was thinking Mobil1, any advise

 

Thanks badcooky, sick of trying to buy oil online, would be much easier to bulk from a depot.

 

if ya use the intro section first you might get a better responce

plenty of oild to use

penrite, 10 tenths

redline

castrol

harley oil

list goes on

The price of oil is not a concern to me, I have struggled to get any response as to weather synthetic oil or mineral oil should be used in this motor, and what is considered to be the most choicest to be used, My Fatbob was stock so I think this motor is to be treated a bit differently, this motor is 103ci stroker CNC ported heads, cams and worries me about the oil ,hense the questions, thanks for your response so far, much appreciated

 

Posted the below up in "Get Your Mobil One oil here" thread.

http://www.hdforums.com.au/Default.aspx?tabid=71&forumid=24&postid=21535&view=topic

I think the post after mine is the same ebay seller.

the delivery was fast, price was good, and I like the idea of putting the good oil in the bike.

 

Posted By russ4570 on 23 May 2012 6:14 PM

Recently tried to get V Twin in the Seymour / shepparton area. All to hard with long waits and rich prices.

Found this on ebay.

Got mine delivered for to my door from this seller.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mobil-1-V-Twin-20W50-Motorcycle-Oil-6-Quart-Sydney-Free-Shipping-/170831909183?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c660113f

Happy.

Regards

when I upgraded my 96er to 103 stage4 dealer said to use normal harley 20w50 change every 4,000ks , I was using syn3 before the upgrade.

Spoken to a couple of mechanics about this and they said use the mineral as it is thicker and would help the top end on start ups , where synthetics are thinner and don't coat as good for this type of upgrade.

Not to sure about "Flame away" Forums are supposed to help, and I certainly am being helped here, and as I have said I appreciate it, I had some thoughts but not enough knowledge particularly on a worked up engine,I am confident enough now to change to synthetic, the brand is by choice but it will be Mobil 1, once again thanks.

 

Look, at the end of the day oil aint oil as Sol said, but the difference between Syn and Mineral is what and how the oil is made. Synthetic is man made and mineral based oil is just that, minerals. Synthetic's cost more as it's been develop for a specific engine class, not a general (AMERICAN) standard or (EUROPEAN) standard, CR - CD, SE - SD and so forth. This is what the oil must do and stand up to.

the weight and temprature range, along with the properties the oil has is most crutial, As in, they make Diesel oil to suit diesels due to the washing properties the oil has and so on.

BMW along with Mobil spend 10's of millions developing synthetic oil to suit their late model engines. Clearance is the big deal in modern engine development, so an oil that can react through a better and more stable constant viscosity is why newer engine manufactures will opt for synthetic oils, rather than a mineral oil that will adapot evnetually to temprature. Newer engines run a much smaller tollerance to bearing clearance, so the oil is cruitial.

Oil design is an exact science, you buy mineral based (Shopping Center) oil and you'll have problems, but there is nothing wrong with the correct weighted Synthetic from new. Ask the people who make the stuff and stand by it. If your bearing clearance is still at the upper scale with older engine design, get a good mineral based oil, as it wont react as quick as synthetic, but for the best on the market and stability, if your bearing clearance's are at a lower end, use synthetic all the way, it wont breakdown or loose it's properties as compaired to minerial oil, all the rest is trivial.

Full stop...

Very informative, thanks

 

Hi Guys,

Unfortunately this debate over lub oils for the HD machinery will not go away no matter how much is posted. One of the critical facts as to why synthetic oil is superior to mineral based oils is the actual chemically bonding of the oil molecules, the actual chains connecting the molecules are greater in number then what they are in the mineral based oils.

The greater chemical bonding allows for greater temp ranges to be achieved before the ionisation levels are reached and hence the break down or separation of the oil molecules resulting in metal to metal contact of the rotating surfaces. Most synthetic oils are about 30 to 40 degrees better then the mineral based oils which is very good insurance when splashing around in a air cooled engine.

Cheers Paul

Another hobby of mine is model planes, and with the gassers they are started off with mineral oil which I was led to believe help cut everything in, then you switched over to synthetic for the life of the engine. But with my harley I really wanted the expertise of the forum to make sure I get it right, not wanting to do any thing detramental to the bike. I must stress i am very much appreciative of the help coming on this topic.

 

OK we may have got off track a little bit here for you gra95770. Your assumptions are correct, let your sled get to its first service (1500 Kmtrs) for a bedding in period and then do the change over to synthetic, make sure you use a puk fitting and ensure you extract ALL the old mineral based oil when performing the oil change.

I personally use Mobil V Twin 20W-50 because my research has shown that it is only marginally behind Amsol, but Mobil is a lot easier to acquire over in the West and also the distributors new pricing is good. I also have the option of Statewide providing the capability to perform oil analysis's when I require at a reasonable price, refer to Ozroder for advice here he has a exceptional experience in all facets of Harley engine performance and building.

If you seek out other threads on this forum re oil and changes there is plenty of info, something to keep your mind on when and if you convert to synthetic oil is that mileage between changes can move out to 10,000klmns or 12 months which ever comes first. My last analysis report recommended that I could go for another 2,000klms knowingly that my sample provided was at 9,500 klms, and I still had some mineral oil in this sample. However i am happy to change every 9 to 10K but I clean the filter cartridge gauze every 5K.

Please do not commence a debate over the best synthetic oil, do your own research and then make an informed decision.

Cheers Paul

good thred and helpful ,, as ozrodder said helped me just now about mobil oil having zink .. been told about that with penn green oil for my car but now I know mobil bike oil has it its eased my mind but as for car MOBIL 1 it is said to have friction modifiers in it ... as has been said mobil 1 bike is dear so I rang mobil up and asked about the two ,, car, bike and they said don't use car for that reason ïtll glase your bores "in an air cooled motor ,, so he gave me a place in geelong that delivers to your door but have to buy 6L which is one box and at the time was $96 delivered,, now I hope ive helped some one ... J.D.