Just rang 2 bike service shops to see if I could get my brake master cylinder honed, "Nah mate we send them to XXXXXXX engineering and he does them for us"

So I ring xxxxxxxxxxxx engineering and he says " no too small we cant do them"

Anyone got any tips on a home honing job?

Thinking about a bit of emery on some tube?

EDIT: the smallest the local auto shops sell is a 11/16, need 5/8

If using a 5/8" Dowel (Steel) use with very fine grinding paste and oil.
If using wooden rod, put slit in the rod and use Wet and Dry with kero in a drill chuck.

Don't use Emery cloth way to abrasive...........

If its only very light scoring or corrosion you can also use some 000or 0000 steel wool. On the dowl or by hand. I usually use the wet and dry with a good lube ,kero is the best for ally as mentioned above. Last method is old worn out scotch brite on a dowl rod.

Good luck and let us know what you went with.

Regards

Is it cast iron or alloy

It will be alloy and probably doesnt need much, had a slight drip from the plunger and couldnt get a hard pedal. Ordered a new kit for it and figure it could do with a light hone.

You are talking about one of the only things between you and a crash,,, your brakes,,, steel wool, bits of emery ,lapping paste all a bit risky if your not sure of what you are doing.
Send the cylinder to a reputable brake machine shop not a shopping centre brake place .In Adelaide one is Power Brakes Adelaide 08 82610888 they can assess the viability of repair including honing, stainless resleving,kit installation, etc and know you are getting back a part that will work as designed every time.

Mate, sorry this is late in the piece, but you can buy a young "take-off" master cylinder from ebay for cheap money.

I was bidding on a 2009 rear master cylinder just last week and missed it at $85 Australian ! In Qld as well !

I only wanted it for the shed, didn't "need" it just now

These are all from guys who "chrome-out" their bikes soon after or even before delivery

Fronts go for much the same money.

Depending on time you have, the wait can be a pain , that's the way to go

Your right, it is a fairly basic trade skill ,but you are presuming that the people performing service to brake components can do so as effectively and safely as you can.
I was only commenting about using reputable repair centres for honing because I wouldn’t get on a bike that had a bit of broom handle wrapped in emery tape or methods similar run through anything to do with its brakes.
Would you?

Alloy cylinders are not to be honed
They have a coating because alloy is porus

Just replace it mate n dont fark around

You can get it sleeved instainless steel -
It may have been already ?

Guys bad practise honing alloy

Have always taken mine to a brake repairer to have them sleeved in stainless, a hone will only change surface finish not contour, ie if its worn oval it will stay oval.

If your in sa take to power brakes for
A sleeve
If your elsewhere some 1 will direct

I am well qualified for advice above..

I just ordered one off ebay for $71.00 delivered for my 1995 softy...

Managed to buy a 13mm up hone but wont be doing anything until I see what the bore is, ie: stainless lined or original alloy. Having trouble removing the nylon/plastic plug behind the circlip, will try with compessed air tomorrow to get plug out and assess next move from there.

Thanks for all the advice, very helpful. Have rebuilt HQ brakes, 40 series Landcruiser (with FJ55 brakes-253V8 compliant) and a multitude of trailers. Bike brakes are new to me.

Arhuh, now your talking. I had a shorty 40 as well. I reckon the japs had a challengs to see how many cylinders and seals they could stuff into one vehicle. The guy that designed the 40 series wins hands down.

Brake repair specialists dream car.

Okay a bit of air pressure got the white nylon plug out and lo and behold one knackered "o"ring seal thingy. (the rear one) Had a good close look at the bore and everything looks fine. So in with the replacement master cylinder piston after a good clean of the bore with air and tissues and more air and a spray of crc and more air. Used an autobarn brake cylinder bleeder and got pressure up beautifully, no leaks and nice and firm (just how youd like a boob job really) So the 13mm hone is sitting in its wrapper bemoaning its existence. Will re-bleed after a good ride and top up if necessary. Thanks all for your advice, the brake bleeder was fantastic truly a one man job, simple to use and efficient and about $15.00 I think.

Anyone want to buy a as new 13mm up brake cylinder hone??

Next time no crc.
Just brake fluid.

Next time no crc.
Just brake fluid.

Next time no crc.
Just brake fluid.

OK OK no crc, I get it already, sheesh