I have the M/M conversion w/ AT, and I'm struggling with it. It seems to only run well(very well) if I'm on or off the throttle. During warm up, extremly rough idle, spits and misses. Warmed up, extremly rough idle, spits and misses. Riding at any unloaded throttle setting in the first 4 gears, misses and hesitates/stumbles. But I'm just learning and will get it figured out eventually, running like this it's still alot better FI than the M/M. I have a few questions maybe someone can help me with.

I have advanced S/W and can rewrite the offsets, when I do this, do I have to clear the IAC offsets and let them reset over a heat cycle? Because it seems when I RW the offsets(not IAC) the bike warms up and idles worse.

My data logs show that most of the time my head temps are around 232F. Does that seem a bit low? What temps do some others see in there logs?? Could my oil cooler work that well?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Brian

98", TW37G, Ported heads with 9.8:1 CR.

 

 

Yeah, I hear ya. Every since I first put it on I've had these problems. No amount of tweaking that I've done seems to help. I've checked for intake leaks and I just finished pulling the manifold and changed the seals as precautionary as well as changed the battery and checked connections, changed the crank sensor and elliminated the cam sensor. The only map available with a 50mm Zippers and true duals is a 480. Maybe I should try another just to see, even if it does run a header. Thanks for the reply.....

Brian

Thanks for the welcome. Don't let me put you off the TMax, I still think it's a great product. More often than not it is user error. Like I said, even the way it's running now, it's way better than the Mag Merelli that was on the bike. Mileage is better, it pulls hard. Just a few kinks to work out.

Brian

A quick update....if anyone is interested. Just got home from work, bike runs the same. Pulled A/C cover and filter and plugged the IAC hole in the throttle body. The bike drops to a very low idle and then dies so I don't think there's an intake leak. Hooked up the comp and my frnt and rear AFR's were in the 18's! Went to the AFR Correction vs. engine temp page and had to raise the blocks at the head temp 67 steps to get the AFR down to mid 13's, then the bike smoothed right off. Has anyone seen this before??

Brian

Another update. I think I'm getting closer. I've tried different maps with the same results. When the bike is warm, the AFR at idle is around the 18 mark, also during warm up the AFR is erratic. I don't think the maps I can choose from like these cams and mufflers. I started adding timing and the AFR began to stabilize close to the tartget and smooth out. Might be on the right track.

Brian

Okay, after adding timing to settle the AFR's down, I started tweaking the AFR Corr vs. ET map to follow the AFR target. So far the bike is starting to run great. The idle has settled down and the no load stutter/hesitation is improving. Scotty(or anybody), if you see something I'm doing wrong or compensating for, fell free to let me know.  I'm just learning and trying to share what's happening to me.

Brian

I'm also having an issue with not being able to get it to run smoothly at idle, or at revs under no load, or low load conditions. It runs fine at say 80k's in fifth or 100 in 6th. The idle AFR's are ok, that is they match up to the graph settings reasonably well, but they do fluctuate a little (observed on the on screen monitors). I've matched the AFR vs throttle maps either side of the 976rpm idle speed, just in case it was jumping from map to map causing the AFR's to vary. It seems to idle for a few seconds smoothly then misfires which is the same under low load conditions. The revs also fluctuate at idle.I may have to put the factory computer back in to see if the problem still exists. I am using an old map '240' which has been removed from the latest map listings.
Also is the Arlen Ness big sucker classed as a 2.25 or a 2.75 air cleaner.
Is there a map that should suit my bike better. (S & S slip ons and air cleaner). Others I've tried are thirsty.I may retry 392 and 394 and see if they idle any better and then set the cruise afr's for economy.
I'm running 98 RON.

Fantm2....is yours also a Mag Merelli conversion? If it is, I found this yesterday. I finally got a laptop and did a monitor log to try and find out why the bike stutters/hesitates at no load, even throttle positions. When I looked at the log I noticed the vehicle speed never moved, always stayed at zero. I looked at the wiring diagrams and found that the W/GR speed sense wire was terminated at the 8B connector before the ECM. I called Zippers and asks if the ECM needed this info. They said it did and would cause many 'tuning' issues, especially at idle. They said sorry and it should have been with the conversion kit and will send it right off. There was a totel of three things they forgot in my kit. The instructions, the auto-tune wire mod and the speed sense wire mod. I want to stress that this may only be on the 2000 HD's only, not sure about that. But it is the M/M conversion bikes only.

Brian

Mine is the t/max w/autotune on an 07 heritage

Okay I added the speed sense wire from connector 8B pin 5 to the ECM connector pin 8. Belive it or not, the idle is much better thru warm-up and while driving. It goes to a steady idle instead of going to 800RPM and recovering to 1000RPM at stop lights and signs. It still has the even throttle/no load hesitation stutter tho. Still havn't figured that one out yet.

Can anyone tell me what their Raw Throttle Position number is on their Zippers throttle body? Mine is at 28. The manual says it should be at 50-54, but Zippers won't tell me if that's okay or how to adjust it. I have checked it with a feeler gauge, .003" is very tight and .002" is snug. Thanks....

Brian