Slipping clutch

  • wolvy29
    wolvy29
    13 years ago

    Hi all. Thanks in advance for any advice. I have a 85 FXST with the old kickstart 4 speed. I changed the clutch cable about a month ago and just recently the clutch is slipping but only when I give it a boot full and the engine revs up. If I roll off a little the clutch catches up. Normal riding and the clutch is fine. I've tried adjusting it at the clutch but hasnt changed it. Does this mean the clutch is fried and needs replacing?

    Cheers

  • The Don
    The Don
    13 years ago

    Hi wolvy29,

    Hope this helps, and if you haven't already, get a manual. As KD said they are invaluable.

    Cheers,

    Cris. 

    Clutch Adjustment for 5 Speed wet clutch 85-89

    Do all these procedures on a cold bike.

     

    To adjust pushrod only you will need to take the derby cover off. Depending on your bike you may have an O ring or a gasket sealing the Derby cover. You may be able to re-use these but always have a replacement on hand just in case. This goes for all seals and gaskets. Nothing more annoying than not being able to finish the job because you screwed up and have to wait for days to get a replacement.

    a)  Screw the adjuster on the clutch cable all the way in.

    b)  Using a 11/16 socket unlock the pushrod adjuster locknut.
    c)  Pull the clutch lever against the handlebar and hold it there with your hand. 
    d)  Using an Allen key turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever   against the handlebar gently until it starts to push the clutch lever away  an inch or so..  Keep gentle pressure on the clutch lever and turn the pushrod adjuster bolt out until the clutch lever touches the handlebar again and then another 1/4 of a turn. Hold the

    pushrod adjuster bolt firmly and lock it. 

    If you want to make that easier buy a 18mm spark plug socket, the type that has like a nut at the socket end. It is the right size (11/16=18mm) and you can insert the Allen key through the end and hold it still whilst locking the nut.
    e) Adjust the clutch cable for 1/16” free play at the clutch lever.

    If you need to go further and check spring or plates you will need to drain the primary and remove the outer Primary cover. Once again have a replacement gasket in hand. With the primary I always put a new gasket in.

    a)  Place a container under the drain hole plug. (Rear of the outer primary cover)

    b)  Carefully, unscrew the drain plug ( Torx head). Let the bike sit for a while. so you drain as much oil out as you can.

    c)  Remove the outer Primary cover. Clean it and the drain screw (magnetic tip) and then replace the screw carefully.

    d)  Unlock the pushrod adjuster locknut.

    e)  Very carefully undo the 4 bolts holding the pressure plate to the clutch hub. These are probably locktited so BE GENTLE, these bolt onto 4 fingers on the clutch hub and are a weak point on this set-up. Back them off in a criss-cross pattern a couple of turns each at a time.

    f)  With a pair of circlip pliers remove the circlip holding the pushrod adjuster nut assembly to the adjuster plate and remove it. Watch out for the clutch spring and plates falling out all over the place!

    g)  You can now remove the clutch pack and check for wear and stack height. (Stack height is .885 - .900.) If all you steel discs are ok ( check for warping using a straight edge or a perfectly flat surface like glass.) and your friction plates are still good then check for stack height. You can always add an extra steel plate to make up the measurement. This extra steel goes alongside the last steel plate next to the pressure plate.

    If your friction plates are glazed or worn out and/or steels warped replace.

     h)  The adjuster plate has 3 sets of adjustment. A,B and C. A is the softest position, with the setting at A replace clutch pack and all clutch , once again be careful with the 4 bolts, criss-cross pattern and a couple of turns each at a time.(don’t locktite until you finish all adjustments.)

    Now check the spring setting with a straight edge. It should ideally be flat to .10 thou concave. This is measured at the centre of the straight edge. If  the measurement is out move the adjustment plate to B. Measure again and if still not right move to C.

    If C doesn’t do the trick you are looking at replacing the spring. Barnett offers a good replacement spring.

    Once everything is checked out and properly adjusted replace Primary cover (by the way, before you do that have a look at the primary chain for wear and/or adjustment.)

    Replace primary oil, re-adjust cable if necessary and you are done.

     

  • wolvy29
    wolvy29
    13 years ago
    Thanks for the great advice guys. I'll have a tinker on the weekend and see how it goes. Thanks for the compliment on the bike kiwi. Thought about going to a 5 or 6 speed but I love the look of the kicker!
  • wolvy29
    wolvy29
    13 years ago
    Definately wont change it! Im only a little bloke and tried to kick it a couple times but think I need to get a bit more beef on me! I like the way it stands out. Tried the push rod adjustment last night but its still slipping although it did feel a little better. Will check the spring plates soon. Was thinking of putting in a heavy duty one from jp cycles. Only $400 odd which isnt too bad.
  • wolvy29
    wolvy29
    13 years ago
    Gday guys. Just an update. Finally got to check the adjuster plate and remove the clutch plates and they're buggered. All cracked and bits coming off so new plates it is. Just a question though with the three settings on the plate, A,B and C, I took a picture of the assembly before I took it apart but cant make out how I change the setting. The plate has a,b and c on it but how do I know which one it is? Are there any marks on the hub assembly that tell me or is it just the way the plate is mounted?
    Dave, ordered a daytona single fire and should be here next week so looking forward to actually trying to kick her to life.
  • The Don
    The Don
    13 years ago
    Hi wolvy,
    have a look at what I posted before, h.) tells you how to set it up . One of the four bolts goes through A, B or C. A is the softest.
    Cheers,
    Cris.
  • wolvy29
    wolvy29
    13 years ago
    Thanks Cris. It was on C so mustve been on the way out for awhile. Is it a good idea to replace the spring plate as well?
  • The Don
    The Don
    13 years ago

    Hi wolvy, 

    If it's the original it's pretty old. If it was me I'd replace it with a Barnett or Screaming Eagle .

    Cheers,

    Cris.

     

     

  • wolvy29
    wolvy29
    13 years ago
    Thanks Cris. Ordered a plate kit with a barnett spring plate as well. How long do I have to soak the plates for? I've heard conflicting stories, some say 5 minutes and others says 24 hours!!!
  • wolvy29
    wolvy29
    13 years ago
    Sorry forgot to ask, what oil is the best? Not fussed about brand, I know thats a massive debate, but the type of oil. I've heard frim Dave that the Ford trans oil is the best. Cheers