Have got a 2000 FLHR that gets a little bit wobbly in the rear at speed going thru corners. The front end is tight but the rear feels a bit disconcerning when at the higher end of the speed limit! Any ideas people.

The early tourers had a weak swing-arm that break near the rear axle. Most guys replace the early swing-arm with a 2002 model unit.

http://www.glide-pro.com/stabilizing-system/

http://www.sta-bo.com/

Both of these kits work very well with some added vibes the glide pro will cost you $500 and the sta bo kit is around $200.

I would jack the bike up and grab the swing-arm pulling back and forth to see how lose it is. If its tight I would buy the progressive stabilizer brace $150 and that will fix your wobble. If not you will need to replace whats worn and then pick from the above units.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceesvy4zUXo

I also should have said a worn (square) rear tyre can cause some rear steer on these tourers

Thanks for the comments people.
I'm thinking it might be the shocks. The tyres are new and the swing arm feels ok. It does have the original shocks

Hey duc dan, check out the glidepro web site that hog bag posted up for glidepro unit, if it suits and you want one i can sell them for $400. aussie posted. I experienced very similar rear wheel steer on my 07 kingy and the glide pro unit really worked for me--cheers Grim

Similar thing experienced on my FLHRC and found the cause to be a few spokes had lost tension!

I had a nasty wobble in my street bob 2012. At the first service, I told the dealer and they nailed it on the head... Loose rear spokes. Same as above post.

The aforementioned information is all good especially the tubular swing arm.  I just had a customer where his brand new cleve block on one side failed and caused this problem.  I can personally tell you that my own 2000 Road King had a broken swing arm and I was just too lazy/busy to maintain my own bike.  Here is a picture.  This is because the poorly designed internal axle spacer crushes the oblong tubing and fatigues the metal.  See my own swingarm below.  I made an aluminum one to replace it with.  ?

 

Look at the idea that the tail does not wag the dog.  Do this test where you pick a flat spotlessly clean patch of asphalt.   Turn the handle bars 45º at 1~2 MPH with your feet wide apart and ready for your bike to want to dump sideways.  Watch the triple trees tweak and go out of askew/alignment.  This is where the top triple tree is only connected to the fork tube by a slip fit bolt that only holds the fork tube up but never tight.  Look below.  ?

 

The fork tubes must be clamped positively like any 2006 & above Dyna or like the pre 1985 FL’s were.  See Below.  ?

 

The small 41 mm (really 1 5/8” (-) 0.001” fork tubes deflect at speed.  To view this attach a few cheap LED flashlights to your fork tubes temporally with duck tape or similar and be prepared to watch at night.  The only thing that keeps this whole fork from failing is the inertia from the heavy front wheel and tire.  Think about what you have just witnessed when traveling at speeds of in excess of 55 MPH and what risks you are taking.  Because I specialize in suspension I get asked to become an expert witness in HD related wobble deaths which I do not do, ever.  I have been working on a complete solution that is retrofit-able  on all 1986 & above FLT’s but that is another story.

my sporter and heritage softtail both did the same i gave the tyres the arse went back to metzlers and no more arse woble