Online: baldy1450

Front springs

  • kojo
    kojo
    13 years ago

    Hi!, just fitted Ikon progressive springs on my 2011 custom, I did not use any spacers as the spring topped out at the top of the cap thread, also I did not change the oil because 1, its only done 5000kms and 2 bugger taking the forks apart. The problem is, if its a problem at all, is now the distance between the bottom clamp and the oil seals is shortened by about an inch, the bike seems to track better and does not wallow like it did with the stock springs, changed the rear as well, 1in over stock Ikons, do I have a problem? I would appreciate any feedback...this is my first harley...probably not my last!...thanks

  • terroristone
    terroristone
    13 years ago

     When first fitting the springs the ride is ok, they will sag over time. You will need to add some more preload over time, i use 20 cent pieces as needed, i've currently got $1.20 in each side. The stock fork oil level is usually not right, it is worth checking, mine had a difference of 60mm side to side. Changing it is easy (forks have drain screws at bottom) and dosnt not require taking the forks appart, search some of my other threads in regards to oil and springs...

    i'll copy and paste some info i out into other threads :

     

    I would not be putting back in what came out, from factory my bike had a difference of 60mls between the forks. So best to take your time and do it right, i used some tape to deflect the oil into a container rather than spray all over the bike and floor, make sure you put the caps back on and pump out as much oil as you can. 

    401ml/13.6oz , Remove spring and preload spacer, compress shockers fully, pour in 401ml/13.6oz oil, then check that the oil level is 3.11in/79mm from the top. What i did was get a syringe and mark 79mm from the end, place it in the shocker to correct level and suck out the excess from the centre of the tube. This process will get the oil level spot on, from there you can play with spring preload and add/remove oil to suit your riding/weight. If you do decide to add/remove oil from stock level make sure you record exactly how much you remove so you can atleast get back to stock eaisly, as you can loose yourself in preload and oil levels....

    Here is some good info that is very much worth reading...

    www.xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php

    www.xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php

     

    The kits comes with 2 spacers (one for each side) to me they looked like they will fit the older sportster as well as they were very long (around 100mm in length) the Ikon springs on their own will come all the way upto the top of the shock, when i first fitted mine i had a feeling that there would be too much preload with these spacers so i cut them in half (50mm) with these fitted the ride was stiff as and i could feel every bump, the bike had no sag what so ever after coming off the jack and with me on it it only dropped 3mm. (no where enough rider sag) i ended up taking out the spacers alltogeather and it was much better, but i found that i needed to keep adding 20cent pieces as the springs were sagging over time, im currently at $1.20 each side and im going to add in some more soon. I had tried screaming eagle heavy oil and found with these springs it just makes them worse. With the stock oil and level what im finding now is its better than stock springs but im by no means happy with the setup. It will be ok over smaller bumps but anything else it will still bottom out, for me its hard to get a good compromise between comfort and function being only 55 kilos. I'm sure for a heavier rider these springs must work otherwise they wouldnt sell them....i guess. Setting rider sag is very important, we have a full length travel of 111mm, rider sag should be around the 1/4-1/3 of total travel, when i used $1.20 it ended up being 28mm from memory which is fairly close. 

     

    Regards T1, hope this helps

     

  • kojo
    kojo
    13 years ago

    Hi T1, the 2011 does not have the drain plug at the bottom of the fork.....I looked for it...I think it is under the fork so its necessary to take the fork out of the clamps and turn it upside down...i think...could be wrong. I was in two minds about draining the oil...do you think it would be worth while syringing out the old oil and replacing it with new. I have replaced the engine oil and primary with Amsoil and was going to replace the forks with 10w Amsoil fork oil...its what I intend to use for the bike in the future. thanks

  • terroristone
    terroristone
    13 years ago
    You sure it dosnt? Look for this philips screw, place a screw driver in there, give it a few taps with a hammer then unscrew, this is the drain plug.
    T1

  • kojo
    kojo
    13 years ago

    Hi T1, I was looking at a 2010 manual and it had the drain plug like you have shown...unfortunately the 2011 bike seems to be different in a couple of ways..you have to remove the front wheel to access the the screw. I tried that but was having difficulty in removing the screw so I left it, did not want to stuff it up and have to go cap in hand to a dealer to fix it...will take my time and learn some more. The information you have given me is a great start, lots to digest and think about....thought it would be easy!!. By the way I,m NOT 55kgs........shoulda bought a (Fat) Bob.