heat mate,small gas torch should do it. usually available from supercheap.rust or locktite  

Brute strength with the right long shaft AF Allen key set. Late Haley's have a few metric bolts around them to confuse us.

I should have said a expensive set of long shaft high tensile allen keys.

 If yer go the way of heat Trev I remember a product nicknamed "snot" which was a heat resistant gel. would solve yer frame paint blistering prob,wish i had more info on it though

you sure you turning the right way

Heat can be used via a soldering iron. Just hold the soldering iron on the head for a little while to heat the bolt. This will soften any loctite type product and hopefully enable you to remove the bolts (assuming it's not rusted stuck).

Good luck with it!

I have removed a shit load of rusted bolts using WD40 (soaked for a few hours) than hit with a impact driver. But being new, I'd do as Canbro suggests, "Heat can be used via a soldering iron. Just hold the soldering iron on the head for a little while to heat the bolt" than hit it with Houli's suggestion use a impact driver.

 I had a similar issue when I had to remove the boards on my Ultra, managed to get one undone, then realised that one of the bolts had a nut on the back on the inside of the frame...may be worth checking...amazing how much easier it was once I undid the nut!

Enforcer they look like torx bolts to me No T45, mine were. Dont use allen keys you will stuff the heads.

Buy a good Torx kit with 1/2 " drive. Use a strong arm bar. They are tight but they will move.

Once you crack them ,move bolts back and forth as they are undone

Mine were pricks but i got them.

There 3/8 allen head bolts on my bike and yes they have a white color lock tight on them. Heat or a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar with a good quality 3/8 1/2 drive socket will crack them.

look for a mixed set of inch and mm in Allen & Torx sockets. All tool suppliers should stock a few different brands. sidecrome, kingchrome but $nap on are very good and cheap in the states if you have time.

Yeah...I'd be replacing with stainlesss cap screws if it were mine.

workin in the exhaust industry for many yrs we used a oxy to heat up flange nuts bolts ect ive done a heap of new bikes last few years and the threads were swimming in loctite so ya probs there plus the fact them stoopid torx heads you can heat up the frame usein a heat gun but hold it back aboit bout 4 inches that ways u wont stuff paint no flame involed but will take a while to get hot or another way is to weld a flat washer on with a hole in it so you get penetration onto torx head then weld a large nut to the washer but only weld on inside let cool an then undo with a half inch drive rachet n socket only way i could get a few out //hd use rattle guns on most frame bolts

Screw and Bolt Remover

The correct torx t-45 bit and a pneumatic impact driver on a low setting should be enough to gently shock the bolts free.

I came across the same problem on my street bob exhaust..... I went and bought the correct impact drivers and bit set, and have never had an issue since.

(Be apsolutely certain that there is no play between the head of the bolt and the splines of the torx drive. They MUST be a firm fit)

Heat is always good to loosen the locktite.
Usually I would use a hair dryer, but I like the soldering iron way.

 How did you go enforcer ?

Is very curious cause I has exactly the same problem with removing the 3/8 hex head bolts on the rear fender rail.

Am I missing something or is there some other reason they attach these things so friken tight.

I have these u-beaut SS bolts that I have to attach as proprietary fittings for saddle bags.

The blurb provided says to torque (?srew throughly?) to max 247 inch pounds or 20 foot pounds.

Seems alot ?

These bolts have the spacer for the detachable backrests.  

I wonder - Is all this super dupa do em tight shit just a mole protection strategy or is the fender rail part of the frame structure ?

I researched this thread and all advise and has been out in the shed for 2 hours with lump hammer, 3/8 hex key, WD40 and so far 2 refills on my ZIPPO to heat the damn things before attacking them with said tools.

Anyways - I can't budge the bastards.

Is well pissed off.

HELP !

And don't tell me you gave up and took it to HD !!        - I can't afford them.

 

Trev, I've got a T45 socket for an impact driver (rattle gun). Its half inch drive and we'll use it with a breaker bar I have here. That should do the trick mate.

Failing that a cordless angle grinder, ball pein hammer, a piece of string about 2.7 metres long and a coat hanger.

If that doesn't work, fuq it, we'll wash it with some petrol and dry it with a match, just make sure your fire and theft policy is up to date.
You should always make sure fire & theft is up to date cause you never know when you might need the cash.

Text me your home address and we'll see if we can have a go at it, this arvo.

no comment on the boards lol but when im doin some bolts always dab some silicon gasket on some as it asorbs shock n vibs ect but wont come loose an its ok to undo