Online: Ultramick

Evo Oil Pump issues.

  • Loose Nuts
    Loose Nuts
    13 years ago
    I bought my wife a '97 Evo Road King with 65,000 K's on the clock.

    She was riding it home from work last night and the oil light comes on. She pulls over, checks the oil level. Level is good, oil is has air bubbles in it and is hot, the motor is quiet, so she decides she'll ride it the last 8 K's home.

    She tells me about it, and I ask her if the valve train was noisy. She says the motor wasn't any different to normal. I went out to the shed, started it up and she was right. It was quiet as usual.

    I disconnected the oil pressure switch wire and the oil light went out, so the electrical side of the oil pressure warning circuit is OK.

    I pulled out the oil pressure switch, connected it to a multi meter and blew some air up its ass, and it went from closed circuit to open circuit and back again like it should.

    I started the motor with the oil pressure switch out to look for oil flow.......There was none. Nothing.

    I pulled the supply oil supply line off the pump. Oil flowed freely through it.

    I pulled the top plate off the pump, watched the gears and hit the starter. Nothing turned. Not the gears or the shaft.

    So.....I take it this means it has a sheared woodruf key in the cam cover?

    Tell me if you've got any better ideas, but if I'm not mistaken, I need to remove the seat, fuel tank, air cleaner, top engine mount, rocker covers, rockers, pushrods (standard 1 piece), lifter blocks, cam cover.

    If I'm not mistaken (and I'm only guessing), the oil pump shaft will be damaged. If I need to pull it out, it looks like the gearbox will be in the way (again, could be wrong).

    If the pump isn't turning, seems to me that the likely cause would be part of the motor stuck in the scavenge pump. Perhaps part of the crappy plastic caged cam bearing this model came out with?

    The oil screen in the cam chest was clear of metal. The oil I drained out ot the oil tank looked clear of metal too.

    I also have the option of leaving the rocker boxes in place, cutting the pushrods with a pair of bolt cutters and pulling the cam cover off. This will save me a little work, but I think the stock pushrods will be better than the ones I replace them with. Also, if it's ugly inside the cam cover, I'll need to pull the engine and rebuild it anyways.

    So, in short,
    Can I get the oil pump shaft out without removing the motor or gearbox from the frame?

    Should I cut the stock pushrods out and replace them with adjustable pushrods to save some work (now and possibly in the future). I'm going to stick with hydraulics.

    Should I just bite the bullet and pull the motor out of the frame? It's time to replace the final drive belt and lube the swingarm anyways.......

    How much damage would 6 or 10 K's without an oil pump cause at 2500RPM? Should I pull the whole motor down?

    Thanks heaps,
    Rick.

    Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.
  • daddyracer56
    daddyracer56
    13 years ago

      best pull the cam chest off,    replace the inner cam bearing with a torrington B-138 + new cam follower's & wheels , pull oil pump off  check & clean  ,pull oil bag + all oil lines & clean proper replace oil line better,      check cam for wheel damage  while in there  pull pinion gear off  & 620 loctite  gear & new key on the min @least ,    i've done plenty of them best do her good the bike that is ,       your wife will cook you better & bigger dinner's for making her bike go better ,             sound's like a cam follower wheel has fallen apart & gone thru the scavenge pump that means you have too clean everything, when you change the oil on & EVBT leave the oil filter off  & run a pint of oil out before you put the filter on  this will flush out the old  oil still trapped in the motor,    make sure tank level is good 

  • Loose Nuts
    Loose Nuts
    13 years ago

    Yep, thanks Daddy Racer. I'll do the cam bearing while I'm in there. This year model had the plastic cage around the rollers so it's getting replaced. I'm going to lift the rocker boxes and check the rocker bushes. With no oil pressure for 10 K's, they're worth a look. This being the case, I'll reuse the stock pushrods. I can cut them out next time round.

         Thanks,

                         Rick.

  • daddyracer56
    daddyracer56
    13 years ago

     back in the early 80's my friend had a 1974 shovel ,  we rode from sydney too melb & back  my friend goe's i changed the oil on the shovel before we left sydney & the bike is going that good that the oil is still clean as when he put it in before he left ,   the oil was still green ? well the old girl went 2,000 klms on what was in the motor only ( she had solid lifters )   but made it all that way , of course she had too be rebuilt  but what bike could go that far on 1/2 pint of oil  the pump wasn't working even before he left sydney 

  • Loose Nuts
    Loose Nuts
    13 years ago

    Checked the compression before I take the rocker boxes off. 135 front, 90 rear. Put 10 ml of oil in each jug and tried again, 140 front, 135 rear.

    The jugs have to come off.

  • HogBag
    HogBag
    13 years ago
    Sounds like its time for a slight bump in compression with a good set of grunt cams.
    Good luck with the rebuild.