Hi all, have been offline for a while ... still riding, just not as often as I should or want to.

I have decided it is time to start playing again, I think I will be getting a few fun vouchers from the parts fairy for xmas so a new pair of cams will be the order of preference, along with adjustable pushrods and possibly .030" head gaskets.

My question now is which brand and profile?

I have started reasearching and am still confused, I want to acheive low and mid range torque ... as much as possible!  The bike already has a Kuryakyn street sleep H/flow air cleaner, PC V and SE II slip on's that have been "opened up" a little.  The cams I have started to look at are SE255, TW6, HQ500, Andrews 26 also looked at the TW 555 but think it may be too high a reving cam for what I want ?

Has anyone had experience with more than one of these to be able to offer comparisons?

Oh and I do plan on a big bore kit and heads at some point down the track.

when i fit cams i always go geardrives an fit andrews most blokes i know want the same as u but we all ride different the 26andrews are a bloody good cam imo others all have their fav im doin chocos bike atm heads cams geardrives push rods an lifters an oil pump all for round 2500 mark itll pull hard down low an midrange then will still have power when needed up top but not many ride right up in the rev range ive always used andrews since the early 80s an back in the 70s never had a prob case hardening always lasts have seen heaps of screamin budgie cams wear the hardening off within 70k an quiker if your a hard rider but as i said thats only wat ive found but never had a comeback so far lol touch wood
personally if ya gunna do cams do heads asap or at same time nothin worse than havin the power but the motor dont breathe as good as it should

Thanks Ol Skool,

I do like and prefer gear drive, however from what I understand the stock TC96's are a bit hit and miss with run out being within tolerance so had decided to stay with chain drive until I do the big bore kit and will convert to gear drive when I can address any runout issues while cases are split and crank is welded and trued.

How often do you come across too much run out ?

Might try and polish the ports myself if the heads come off to do the gaskets but otherwise had not planned on doing any head work as they will get changed completely when the B/bore kit gos on.

Thats 1 vote Andrews 26  sounds like they are popular with what I want to acheive. 

 

If you want torque and plan on a big bore kit with headwork the Wood TW 5-6 would be my pick. I have these cams in my 103 with good heads and they rip from 1800 to limiter.

If you want torque and plan on a big bore kit with headwork the Wood TW 5-6 would be my pick. I have these cams in my 103 with good heads and they rip from 1800 to limiter.

 Hi Rob ... been a while,

Yeah thought about waiting to do it all at once and have bigger grins for longer but reality kicked in and it will probably be 12 months before I go big bore, so spending $600 or so for 12 months worth of little grins is probably worth it to me, who knows may even buy a complete 120" crate motor and keep the 96 for another project ...?

Are you coming down to see the family for Xmas ? let us know, would be keen on catching up for a beer ... or two.

Sorry I must have misread your build plans.
I would run a Andrews 48h straight or 54h with a +4 timing until you decide on your next engine mods .

Well even more confused now than before .... didn't take much, Rob you are completely right and why spend the cash fucking around with something I konw I'll end up changing anyway.

Looked at the 48's and think they are probably the best fit for what I was trying to do, but did start thinking of the whole long term bigbore plans and head works, I was orginally thinking of the SE 113" race kit becasues it comes with everything needed, but am now wondering if i should just stick with a 106" or 107" kit and save the hassle of maching cases, and does the crank pin really need welding when upping the grunt?

I would be able to go a 106" or 107" do cams and polish the head ports all in one go but only if the crank doesn't need welding - it is all work I can confidently do myself without any machining and balancing, I don't have the budget to do a 113" until later next year and now am unsure if I even want to go that far, will I get enough satisfiying grunt from a 106/7 build?, or do I just save the fun tickets and go balls out and buy a complete crate 120? ... 131.

What I want to acheive is lots of low down grunt, to be able to pull away from almost everything without dropping gears, I want to keep the bike reliable, comfortable for street riding and touring so am not sure a big build will give me all that? I have had a local drag racing Harley mechanic give the opinion that some big builds of 120 + go like a scalded cat down the strip but can be a bloody aweful to ride on the street?

??????

I have the 5-6 woods cams in a little 103 cube motor with stg2 heads, 51mm body, Bassani road rage 2-1 and it fucking cranks in every gear. I live in the country with open roads and I get this bike flying at times. To be honest I cant see a need for any more power then what I have now and its pushing a 800 lb bagger with a batwing fairing. I can squirt this thing to 225 KPH in 4th gear with no problems. After years building this motor it time to get stuck into the TTS Vtuning and get it on a dyno to see where I'm at with HP/Torque. I'm thinking somewhere around 115/120 but time will tell

I'm probably dreaming with those numbers but its a torque build and I'm not chasing high HP numbers. The heads flow 160 cfm at 600 lift and the supplier states 120/120 with the right parts. Who knows what it will pull because it will only be Vtuned for the street at this stage.

I'd be surprised at anything over 100hp/110tq with a 234 deg duration Cam in a 103.
Just not enough time to fill the Cylinders for any more.

Rosacycle has a few sheets listed on his site with the 5-6 117/130 on a 103. It used to be there but not sure if it's still up. There's a heap pulling well over 110/120. They could have been happy dyno sheets made on a good day. Like I said numbers don't mean shit to me it's a torque build.

Agreed, Dyno numbers are good for the Ego, but If the bike rips on the road and your happy, who cares.

Lastrain, you need to figure out wether you throw some money at your bike now, then throw a heap more
to do it again bigger/better later on.

yup agree with ya on the dyno thingy figures are ok but dont matter shit if ya cant ride lol seen blokes with 140hp motors ride against a bloke on a stock evo an round the twisties the evo bloke shat on the other fella

more than happy to sit down with you and nut out all the options im just north bundy in bucca an if you want come for a ride up will talk motors with you all day if ya want lol numbers are 0450511192 or 0741578232 dont mind puttin up the numbers as ill be startin 24hr bike only towing on the 1/1/2012
cheers ron
p.s if ya dont get me on one num ber try the other