Hi I have a 2003 Dyna Superglide. Due to a weak left hand ? I have had the clutch modified. Initially a White Bros modification to the ramp inside the transmission side cover. Then in I think 2008 my mechanic sugggested that the 2007 models had improved their clutch pull weight. I had them install this and its now pretty good. HOWEVER once hot the bike is nearly impossible to get in to neutral. I seem to have more luck moving from 2nd than 1st.  I have adjusted the clutch a couple of times, and am going to try again tomorrow. What are your suggestions for 1 The "backoff" of the adjusting screw. A half or 3/4 or it makes no difference. 2 The clutch cable free play. Plus any other off the wall suggestions.

Thanks

 Back the adjusting screw off the minimum 1/2 turn so that you get max disengagement when you pull the clutch in.

Set the cable free play as per normal, like as in minimal free play.

You need all the "disengagement" you can to take any drag off the tranny when selecting neutral.

What oil ya running in the primary?

The problem with some of the "easy pull" clutch modifications is that the clutch travel is reduced due to the extra leverage.
You need to make sure the clutch adjustment both at at the lever and the pushrod is spot on.
The other way to improve the clutch pressure is to fit a "VPC" clutch or similar.
A hard to find nuetral is usually due to clutch drag, or not releasing the clutch fully.

 Thanks rider. I use Belray "Big Twin". 

 Just to clarify;

Bel-Ray Big Twin Transmission Oil is a multi-grade 4-stroke V-Twin transmission oil formulated for sliding contacts of gears in heavily loaded 4-stroke transmissions. 

"Bel-Ray Big Twin" wouldn't be suitable for the primary. It's a gear box multigrade.

 

Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase Lubricant is premiumy motorcycle oil specially formulated for the primary chaincase of all big twin motorcycles.

 

"Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase Lubricant"  is the one for the primary case and clutch. it's distinctively Red.

 

Source; www.belray.com/powersports/products/v-twin

 

Where I'm commin from is that if you've got a multi-grade, or gear oil in the primary that will hold or increase in viscosity when it gets hot, then that will cause the clutch to drag when disengaged, and I'm pretty sure that if a gear oil was in there you'de also be experiencing clutch slippage when engaged.

 Hi rider

Broke into a cold sweat there for a minute. When I answered your question I just went out to the shed and looked for the bottle. The only one remaining other that motor oil was the Big Twin. From memory when I last changed the primary oil the mechanic advised to use all the bottle (from memory again a quart).

Interesting though about the distinctive red. It states that on the Transmission Oil bottle that its Distinctive red colour allows for early leak detection. I will check on their site to see if they are both red.

 

Well, i've got a 2001 dyna, i have that same white brothers gizmo u got but  no problem selecting nutral.

but in past with old shovel when it was hard to select nutral, i just let clutch out a bit more, to put a load on gear box, and i would get it into nutral.

another way is to put it into nutral while still moving.

 Thanks Krash I will have to try a few tricks so it seems. Well checked everything, adjuster was and is half turn out. When then setting the clutch free play I noticed that it slightly alters when steering turned lock to lock but figured you dont normally look for gears or neutral at full lock either way. Its back together so another ride must be due. I cant see that I have changed anything though. 

use atf fluid as per kiwidave,works for me and have had no trouble.

 hi i v'e set up a few , auto trans fluid is the best  (keep it fresh )  it's less drag inbetween the plates ,  back the cable right  off .  adj the clutch with a 1/4 turn out when hot as , so pushrod is  free when with  heat expansion then adj cable to near full  min slack , you should be able to push the bike backwards when in gear with the motor running when hot , opp temp ,           if not you may have some dished steel plates in your clutch pack  from too-much heat , + never sit @ traffic lights in gear with the clutch in it give's the plates a hard/hot time ,                                                           i hit netual before i stop if i can's get it i do a little clutch take-up then click  neutral

 Thanks daddyracer56. Going for a ride in the morning to see if anything improved. The problem is I have been sitting at the lights in gear cos I couldn't get the bloody thing into neutral. I am going to try the few tricks suggested here to get neutral tomorrow. If nothing wiorks I might have to get Frasers to sort it.

i had big issues trying to find N on my bike, i gave up on trying to fix it. I recently fitted forward controls and i can now find N every time. I think it must have something to do with my ancle?
Regards Andrew - T1

always find neutral   just  before you stop  it's much easier,

 Hey Terroristone You got me thinking about feet leg whatever positions. I have changed plenty over the past 3 years from risers to seats. Plus always ride in Rossi boots with the double leather patch on top. So after initial ride did bugger all came home and repositioned gear lever on the spline. Also angle of gear peadal? and cut off the second layer of leather on my left boot. After a couple of trips out and back to alter a few things, I am thinking I might have it sussed. I could not get full heat like last weekend 36 and 110kph but did bog laps up and down the freeway at least using all gears. The last run was 9 stops and got it 8 times. I will take that. But still more testing to be done. I have altered the position where the clutch grabs to just a bit further out from the bars so perhaps that helps. Thanks for everybodys help and suggestions.  

Maturecruiser