gday, 

im sure this has been covered before but ill be ***** if i can find it for a sportster.

well i done an oil change in the old girl (06 sporty) but like many i have still the old oil in the system that i can not get out just by following the manual.  seems to be a backward way to service any machinery!

1.  can i just cut the return line and put a tee piece with a bung (like the oil tank drain)? and start the bike to purge the old oil?

2. will the oil filter (new) still get contaminated with old oil (defeating the purpose of cutting the return hose).

3. what does the scavenger puck look like on the threaded side (cant find a picture on the net), is it a filter with no filtering material (if so ill make one).

4.  what do the stealers do when some one goes in for a service?

5. or do i buy 2 lots of oil and filters and do a 2nd service 500k or under to reduce the old oil in the system?

cheers in advance.

al.

 

This at all any good to you? http://www.roguechopper.com/products/Sportster_Scavenger_Kit_RC130.htm

 

edit (i realise you mentioned scavenger, but hopefully watching the videos make it easier to see what you can and cant get away with)

unless I'd seen it for myself, I'd be laughing at the idea of starting a bike up to get the rest of the oil out, but the vid looks pretty damn good and easy for a clown like me to figure out.

 

 

just keep the oil's clean don't let it get dirty , i rec to change the oil in the tank even on big twins @ the 1/2 way point like @ about 2- 21/2 ,000klms as to not get a chance too get dirty,    the oil tanks on most models do not hold enough  so it doesn't cost much to change the oil in the tank only & do the filter every 2nd time use good  brand not tawian brand? ,     the bike will love you for it , owing a bike is like making love to a women she has too be keep clean on the inside too

Cheers daddyracer never thought of treating a woman like that... My misses would flogg me if i said she was dirty on the inside. That makes sense as oil filter holds stuff all.

 only as i love my bike's as much,   but  anyway i use  evo dyna oil filters on all the sporty's i service as these are longer & hold a heap extra + look the good's ,        my e.g.'s are a bit  off some time's 

Just like cars you are unable to get all of the old oil out, going to all that trouble to get a 1/4 lite at best out of the system isnt worth it, it will not cause your engine any harm, on some bikes there is an elen key bung in the bottom of the motor to get that last little bit out, im sure the dealer's dont bother with it, but its as far as i see worth going....unless you have plenty of time on your hands then knock yourself out. Just remember that many people oil change the oil and filter without doing anymore and put many many k's on their bikes. Why chew into good drinking time??
Regards Andrew

Shit I don't want to cut into more drinking time! Thanks for your advice, I'm still a virgin.

I'm still a little surprised at how much oil is left once you take off the hose and the filter. Do that on a Ricer and the garage floor would be coated in the stuff.

I think i'm going to miss having a sump plug.

 on a sporty don't mess with any plug's under neath as you can get & air lock in the oil system . just keep her clean  & you won't have to worry about the little bit left in the engine  , on some bike's  if there'  a bit dirty  i drain the oil then put 1 ltr in only & run the bike for  1min  & then drain again  that way you only waste 1 ltr , it just flushes out that last bit then every thing is clean again, 

usta use flushing oil on the old 3TA. Any one know what that was????

flushing oil  is not real good  it's a bit too thin for & air cooled engine's  you have to run it HOT & flush it-out hot    ,              your bike was a Triumph 350 twin  a bady 650  beaut bike  i love 350's

Most engine oils are not 'used up' lubrication wise unless you go over the recomended change period by a factor of 4 or 5 times. But the additives ( detergent and friction modifiers) are broken down by the heat and shearing forces they go through at the bearings and sliding surfaces. The oil also becomes saturated with water and carbon - water from condensation and from burnt fuel seepage past the rings, carbon being washed from the cylinder walls by the detergent in the oil (which is why the detergent is in the oil) . Your oil filter does not clean any of the water or carbon out of the oil unless the carbon is a big flake or the oil has washed some metal particles into the filter. The main thng the filter does is keep all circulating particles suspended in the oil down to a size that is unlikely to build up or block the oil galleries and bugger up bearings.
If you change your engine oil at 2500-3000kms ( remove/drain/refill and refit oil filter as well) and replace the filter every 2nd oil change there is no need to scavange that last bit of old oil out of the engine. That little bit of shit it is holding wont hurt anything.
If your oil is coming up on the dipstck all clean, there is something wrong. Oil SHOULD go dirty/black within 1500kms ,if it doesnt there is something wrong or the engine is not being run.
If you really want to clean the engine out internally dont use any flushing oil. If you can find it, run 20W-50 air cooled Deisel oil every 2nd change. Deisel oil is a very high and strong detergent oil and will clean the oil galleries and bearings . As was noted above, dont do this on an old engine. Normal water cooled deisel engine oil (again 20W50 for main land Australia) is OK if it is for truck use, dont use the 'high speed' or 'modern deisel' labled oils , they have less detergent in them than the truck stuff ( so the oil wont froth up at the high revs the light weight car deisels can run at) . As above, use normal air cooled engine labled 20W50 or 20W60 oil for the engine otherwise. Air cooled engine oil is different to normal engine oil ( water cooled) - the addatives are simpler and chosen for their ability to stay together and do their job at higher internal engine temps.
If you REALLY want to go to the extreme, go to your local light aircraft airport ( Camden or Bankstown in Sydney) , go to one of the hangers that do service work on the planes, and ask if they will sell you a box or container of Aero Shell or Mobil engine oil. Most will decant some from their 44 gal drum or order a box of oil in . Make sure you have your own container ready. Aero stuff is high detergent, high temp, low rpm (many aero engines max out rpm wise at 2700rpm!, a high revver is 3200 rpm) and wide viscosity oil, and is ALWAYS made to a high spec - the oil companies dont want to be sued for killing some one due to their oil causing an engine failure. Byteh way- aero engine oil is not cheap.

Als 1200 this what Bakes does to his 1200.

drain the oil out the normal way, slip the sump plug back on, fill with the oil of your choice, take the sump plug back out let it until clean oil comes out, put plug back in and tighten.

Then with the filter off and plugs disconnected turn the motor over until clean oil comes out, then half fill your new oil filter and put on.

then degrease motor and clean your bike while your at it. dont forget to top up your oil tank if requiered.

Cheers all done and dusted, changed oil x 2 after about 500k (went from mineral to syn) and all clean as. Cheers for your input.

al, can you take a picture of what you did? (((-:

308, can't. Need a time machine. Will next time I do it though, very simple job.

thanks al, i thought you may have one (((-; (time machine)

if you crank the donk over with the spark plugs out make sure you earth the spark plugs out on the motor some how or you can stuff-up the electronics even on any electronic ign system  on any model harley

Good point daddy, often get forgotten.