Yep If I can figure how. I can't load it onto Photbucket. So I have to find a place somewhere to load it up so you can download it.

http://www.freespace.com.au/filehosting/201938

http://www.freespace.com.au/filehosting/206648

try that

IVO at 6? I run the cam tune data and it came up with 3. As far as the VE go yeah I ned to do some more V tuning but I would not think that would make such a difference. Even if I load a another Map it still has the same problem. Did you have a look at the Data run near the end when the O2 MV drops to 0 on both sensors. But if I leat the throttle off slightly they come back on. That to me seems not right as it has to be getting something from the Sensors. Unless it is running on fresh air. However I could be wrong with that as well..

I will keep plugging away. I will load up another map in the morning. The original Map when I started and see what that says. ( This was done by Scotty a few years ago. ). Same agan the morning and I will post up the results.

Thanks Hilly, good of you to take a look. A fresh look at things makes all the difference.

At a pinch I will change the Cam IVO to 6 and see what difference it makes, Can't hurt

Well I done another run this morning and same issue. One thing it was backfiring like hell when I open up the throttle in 1st and second. Pushed it as hard as I could to try to get through that patch but no way, just not pulling. Back off the throttle just bit and it starts to pull, open up and it bogs down and splutters, coughs, change gears and I am below that mark and off she goes...until I get to that late 3k mark in the RPM then shit.

Hilly that 0Mv on the O2 has me stumped

Oz I was hoping you would chime in. OK They are new sensors put them in Sat morning. I also checked the Flange bolts at the same time. The sensors are working correctly as I get pretty good oscillations when riding normally, but as soon as I give it 50% open throttle all turns to shit when you get into the higher revs.. And the sensors are reading 0 Mv., but the indicator at the top right Hand side gives it a green light.???? If it was rich I thought it would be red. but then it should also give a high Mv reading as well. PE mode comes in at 4300Rpm so it has not got there yet, but it is reading the MAP of 86 which gives a 13.4 AFR. That could be why the sensors are giving a 0 MV reading as the bike is operating in Open Loop Mode.

I will give the plug reading a go in the morning when it is warmed up a bit. I can do it at work as we have a nice long stretch of road that I can use.

And yep Steve would be a god Send for this.


I told you it was a curly one.......

AJ did you put the stock coil leads back on and change plugs. Sounds like the coils are breaking down under load.

AJ did you put the stock coil leads back on and change plugs. Sounds like the coils are breaking down under load. Pull the crank position sensor under the oil filter and see if there's any shit on it.

Hog I have been using the stock leads. I haven't changed the plugs out as yet. And the CPS was a thought of mine as well. I read somewhere a bloke had issues starting and they said pull the CPS and give it a clean.... I might do that as it is an easy job to get done to eliminate it anyway. One thing that bugs me is the 0 Mv reading in the data run for both of the 02 Sensors, right where I am having the issues. Maybe I am looking at it from a wrong perspective as well.

My guess is because the bikes running like shit at 3500 the 02 are getting flooded with fuel when it missing. It sounds like it's a electrical fault. After your turn the key on does the dash light go off after a few seconds and then come back on ? This would indicate a stored fault code. Send me a pm of your email address and I will send you a few pages from my diagnostic manual. I'm out off the truck Thursday night for a long weekend to work on my bike so I will have a few beers and read up on your problem in my manuals.

Nope no codes thrown or historic codes either. I have the Service manual with Diagnostics as well. I actually haven't even gone to that as yet. I will have a look tonight. I will also put the coil on the ohm Meter. I checked the leads and they are well within the readings. I might pick up a couple of plugs as well, just to discount that.

I am starting to wonder if it is electrical as well. Also I use normal unleaded fuel as well. I wonder if that is the cause,

Hilly I done another Cam Recording when I got home tonight and yep 3 IVO and 2 for Exhaust. Unless the cam timing is out on the cam gears. But I was there when Scotty fitted them and yep they were lined up perfectly. So Somehow I don't think it is the cam timing. Funnily enough I thought it would have run like a pig with the stock timing set but nope ran ok to work. A couple of small changes Not as much bark from the exhaust, and not as much pull in the lower revs. The 21H come in at about 1800 and finish at 4800. I will start looking at the coil, Crank Position Sensor, maybe change the plugs out. I have got the original Leads back on atm but will change them if nothing comes of it. I know it is something that is going to piss me off. I just hope it is a simple fix. If it is AFR then I am into a bit of work to find out where. But as Oz said and you have said the same thing, if you don't get a good V tune at the start it will just compound the problems. If I don't have any joy this week with the simpler things thn Sat sparo fart I will be out doing a meticulous first V tune. Now I might call it quits there and post the results here to see what the general consensus is about the amount of data collected. If all good then Sunday another run, and so on.

Sorry to be a pain in the arse but THAT'S WHAT THIS FORUM IS FOR. And now I have found a place to upload files then Hell I can just upload them and seek assistance if I am stuck.....

ok Tested my coil. No issues there that I can see No Tracking, cracking, Tested acrross both primary and secondary circuits. Within specks....Next is the Crank Position sensor.. I will do a plug test/check on the way to work in the morning. After that I am out of ideas other than it is the map and AFR that is causing the issues.

Great idea OZ
Also cam timing being out 1 tooth will show up with a comp test. It will show a big difference between cylinders.

Thinking the injectors have problems with the wiring being to tight between the frame and the injectors. The wires are thin and can break with the engine shaking. Try a wiggle test with the motor running. Double check the connections on the injectors and make sure there not ass about.

Oz the bike was second hand and run in when I got it. Jap Import. I can do A Comp test though and post the results.
OEM Pushrods used when Scotty done the Cam change for me. And I am confident that the Cam timing was correct when it was done. Although I can check.

Hog I can have a look at the wiring. I have only had the wiring off the injectors once and it was doing the same thing before that. Never know though so I will check.

I am starting to think it is the Map that I have loaded. I put in a Map that I V Tuned a while ago and it is not as bad. I rode in and gave it some yesterday and it pulled hard, however I didn't open up the throttle as much and it went past the problem area that I was having. If I open up the throttle a bit more it starts to bog down, so Hog your suggestion that it is getting to much fuel is close to the mark. I think.

One thing I read on a post in the US about V Tuning and setting certain settings to 0.00. Accel, Decel, Etc. I can understand where this bloke was coming form as he is saying by setting those celss to 0.00 and then V tuning finalizing the map and resetting those cells back to their original settings is altering the tune. Making the tune richer than the bike has been tunes to. We set the CLB tables to what we want then V tune and then set everything back. But those settings are set for the Map that we load and changing them may have an impact on the tune that we make for our bikes.

The map that I loaded I left the CLB settings as they are in the tune but loaded my VE's from a tune I had done on the same map. There lies the difference between what Map I V Tuned and the same Map that I altered very minimally. I am wondering if this is the reason for my problem. But then I would expect others would have the same issues as well.

Maybe I am off the mark here, I don't know but I have noticed a difference between the two Maps. Also I have been looking at other things as well and it could have been a bad connection on the coil wiring, Leads etc. And changing to many things has clouded the problem area.

I will keep plugging away on this.

By the way thanks heaps for all your inputs, I appreciate the time you take and thoughts.

AJ

AJ

One thing you might do would be to remove the air cleaner just for a short ride provided your not out in a dirt lot or in the sand. See if it rev's up clean with it off. If it does you found your problem. Next would be to do the same with the muffler removed. This will make sure the filter isn't stuff'ed or a muffler has collapsed. Let me know how it goes from there.

Thanks Steve I will give that a go. However when I changed Maps to one I had previously used it revved a lot higher that before. As Oz indicated it is the Map and I haven't done a very good Vtune with it. Also as Hilly has said if you don't get a good data session the first run it will make things harder as you progress. I am running a K&N Filter that has never been cleaned as I was under the impression that htye don't need cleaning doe 50K. Maybe wrong here though. so.