ok thinking of doing my cams now never tried anthing like this before.

if fact alway got others to do mech work now thinking whats the worse that can happen ?

i fuck the motor and need a new one think its worth the punt

If your just doing Cams, and you have some basic knowledge, you really can't fuck it up.
If it's a later twin Cam, with no outer Cam bearings, it's even easier .
Do it. There's plenty of knowledge around here if you get stuck.

JD
replace the cam bearings and lifters as well.

If you want some DIY info, I can email you a handy write up.

Mate get yourself a workshop manual for your bike, have a look on you tube, then ask questions.  Also make sure of what cams will suit your bike, (lift etc.)  I'm not sure what lift your heads will take.  Ask plenty of questions

i take my time make sure i get the right parts at least

JD the twin cam should take 450 to 500 thou lift,
depending what you are after, lumpy noise, bottom end or top end speed ??
You pick your cams by what it is you want to do when the motor is stock......

not sure what i want them to do more want to know if i can do it lol I know that sound strange but its more about having a go
so i need to look into it

JD you didn't say what year twin cam but the the inner cam bearings you want to use are "Torrington B168" are the industry standard -- you need 2 off. I would only consider changing the lifters if they had >40-50,000 klicks on them.

If you use adjustable pushrods you can easily change the lifters later. When you do the cams you have a choice of going through the top end to re-use the original pushrods, or you can cut the factory pushrods out with bolt cutters and use the adjustables.

If you use adjustable pushrods for the cam change you don't have to lift or remove the tank and the rocker boxes to remove/reinsert the original pushrods. There is some risk in using adjustables as some (myself included) have had problems with the Screamin Eagle pushrod locknuts backing off. Others have had no problems with them (google it). If I do my cams again I will use a brand other than HD's.

Get on youtube and search for S&S cam install. S&S have done a 57 minute video on how to change cams in a later model twin cam with the cam plate and chain/sprocket cams. You need to pay strict attention to the section on aligning the cams as if you get them even a tooth off in the chain the engine will run poorly if at all. You will then have to go back into the cam chest and correct the misalignment. Sounds crazy to get it wrong but it happens more often than one thinks.

Use Ozroders guide to select the cams based on your riding style and model of bike, then consider the changeout. You should also have red locktite to use on the outer crank sprocket and cam sprocket when you tighten them up. It isn't a difficult job but you have to be on your toes.

The SEPST tuner with have no maps for the aftermarket cams. This is why a lot of guys run the TTS because it will dial in any cam timing profile from the aftermarket and then home Vtune. I would consider the screaming eagle cams if you want to use the smart tune. If you plan on having the bike dyno'd pick any cam you like.

JD-- Forgot to say earlier.... Also need to change out the oil pump scavenge 'O' ring and may as well do the 2 smaller ones while your in there. EZ job-- just pull the old ones, wipe the seats with a clean rag, leave no rag 'threads' or debris in the seat and seat the new ones.

Mr wood would recommend heavier springs if asked. I'm running 575 lift Wood cams with 180 beehive springs and there's no valve train noise

Getting off topic for the original poster who only needs a baby Cam anyway, but, I've done a TW7 build with stock beehives, and appears happy up to 6000rpm. Wood did say it would be OK.

A quote from Tman on his TR600 Cam (with .600 lift ) :

"This cam can be used as a bolt in on 07-Present heads with the stock beehive springs because of its shallow TDC lifts and a stock beehive spring that will travel .710. It has a distance between the upper collar and valve seal of .660 with a seat pressure of 140 lb. "

its all good iwill look into cams a little more then work out what I need no stress its all about learning