Hey guys - i'm getting no power out of my alternator - its a 2003 wide glide - i replaced my inner primary bearing and starter ring gear a few weeks ago and guess that i've done something wrong - multimeter shows that i'm getting nothing out of the charging system - i put multimeter on the connector that is between alternator and rectifier - the connector had a heap of oil in it which i cleaned with aerosol contact cleaner - no idea about why the oil was there but the connector is immediately below the oil filter and i guess the oil might be from an oil change - i'm guessing that i need to replace the alternator but would like any ideas before i start on that - cheers, Numbers.

Check for earth leakage on the stator, you could have pinched a wire when putting it back together. just check all the pins for short. Oil in the plug could mean from an oil change and that would insulate the pins from the stator assy. Also could have damaged the seal for the wiring loom from the stator to the plug which would leak primary case oil onto the plug. But if you don't have an oil leak then that may not be it.

Thanks AJ56 - i'm not sure how to check earth leakage on the stator - what we did was put a mutimeter into to plug that sits under the oil filter and got nothing other than a small flicker

how do i check earth leakage?

what do i need to do to check all the pins for short?

i'm thinking about removing some insulation off the wires that come from the primary to the plug that is under the oil filter to establish if it is the plug - do you think that could work?

cheers,
Numbers

With Earth leakage you need to check each of the stator windings to see if they are grounding to earth. With the short test, Ground one of your probes to the frame, then check each of the pins as well using the other probes. Now one of them should go to earth as that is the earth. Do you have a wiring diagram to go off.? As far as the pug goes. If that has had a shit load of oil in it then that could be the culprit. Depending on what type of plug Delphi I think they are they are hard to clean as they are water proof, so just giving it a quick spary may not do the trick initially. If it is a Delphi then the back of the plug ahs a rubber seal that slides into the plug housing, pull that back and then have a look to see what it looks like inside. if it is clean do the same to the mating plug. If you can discount the plugs then the stator itself you could assume to be the problem. Also out of curiosity when you took of the inner primary, what was the inside of the rotor like? When you put it all back together you did slide the rotor all the way home, stupid question but simple things are usually what happens. Also check your fuses to make sure that none have blown.

Thanks AJ56 - inside the rotor was very clean and i'm pretty sure we slid the rotor home properly - i have the wiring diagram from the workshop manual and will have another look at that

If the plug is faulty do you think that i can replace it? without having to get into the primary again?

i was thinking that i probably need to expose some insulation to test the wires coming out of the primary - do you think that is sensible?

I didn't look at the fuses and i will check - but because i was getting nothing on the multimeter i guessed that the problem was at the alternator end

Cheers,
Numbers

I got this from the manual Electrical Diagnostics section. 1.7  Also check your regulator as well.  All the info should be in the manual diagnostics section.

 

 

Stator Check
1. Turn ignition key switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-18. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into either stator socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (8 ohms)
across either stator socket.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-19. Remove ground lead. Insert lead into
the remaining stator socket.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.
a. Resistance across the stator sockets should be 0.1-
0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is lower, a short is indicated. The
stator is damaged and must be replaced.
c. If resistance is higher (OL on meter), an open is indicated.
Stator is damaged and must be replaced.


AC Output Check
1. See Figure 1-20. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across both stator sockets.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-40 volts AC (approximately 16-20 per 1000
RPM).
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is good, charging problem might be faulty
regulator/rectifier. Replace as required.
3. Check the output again as previously described under

hey thanks for that AJ56 - i will check the fuses and the connector first to see if it is just a bad connection - will get to it 2moro night

Cheers,
numbers

Mate, if you do these tests and she still comes up with problems, then go ahead and have a look at the plugs before you replace the stator, you have nothing to loose if the stator is dead but save a few bucks if it only the plug. Now if it was ok before you changed everything then you can assume that because you have changed over the bearings and that you have to remove the stator assy to do that then there might be a problem with the plugs itself on both sides. They can be replaced, you just need the part numbers and the necessary tools to do the job.. Pretty easy in the end.

hi, when you change the engine oil filter put a plastic bag or news paper over the alt plug conector as the oil get's in & stuff's it , + pull it apart & clean it  every now & then it will last longer

thanks for the tip daddyracer - i will be more careful in future

Any tips for pulling that alternator plug apart and cleaning it - i couldn't see anything in the manual and i started to think it might be a sealed unit

Cheers,
Numbers

I had a look through the manual and that plug is not listed. Although in the pictures it looks like a Delphi connector, but in the manual it is listed a 2 pin Facon???? Never heard of that bugger. All the others are explained how to dismantle but not that one. Even google doesn't come up with anything. You could replace the whole plug with a different type on both the stator and the Regulator, but they would have to be water tight etc.

Thanks AJ56

It sounds like it might be nothing but a connector

If it's only a connector i could hard-wire it and protect it with shrink insulation - what do you think

Cheers,
Numbers

Yeah you could do that. I don't think it will affect anything as far as electrical goes. A different plug would do the same job and allow you to remove the connectors when required. If you don't intend to do anymore work, then yeah hard wire and shrink wrap. There should only be 2 black wires that need to be connected so not a big job, just do then one at a time.

heading out for the route 66 run for the weekend - have to take other bike - so i won't get chance to have a good look at this until monday - if its not the connector then i will take the compensator off, have a look at the stator, and replace if its rooted

Numbers FYI Hilly is replacing his Stator Assy in his 06 Dyna I am not sure if they are the same match. If you do need to replace it then it might be worth asking what he wants for his. This is just a thought.

Mate keep us posted on the outcome..And have a good weekend.

hi, it doe's come apart you unscrew the  unit i think a 5/32 allen key  , pull the boot cover  & then depress the 2 outer clip's  &  give a bit of strenght apart  as  it gets road grime in the plug as well  & jam's a bit ,     but clean it 1st spray WD 40  & air blow the plug conector as the grit up the side's of inbetween the male & female  plug  make it  hard if it  hasn't been cleaned before , it's does'nt need to be replaced just keep clean of oil & always make sure  the metal 2 male's are a tight fit into there  female's  for a good conection  ,   see fixing bike's is a lot like making love