nice work Hilly. dsv

Hilly let us know how your readings go for O2 Sensors with the change. Did you take any measurements of the difference in depth between the front and rear positions. And what length were the bungs ground down to. Also I noticed that you changed the angle that the sensors sit at, Will this give you the clearance when the pipes are on the motor. ?

Did you keep a record of the previous O2 Readings with a Data Master record?

Sorry for the questions mate but this is the first time I know of that anyone has tried this.....

PS where did you get the bungs from

good work hilly

 

top work Hilly..... 

 

have now had a look at mine and can see exactly what you mean... I am moving to Melbourne in the next few weeks and will have mine modified then as I need to put the bike back to stock for rego change. I also need to have the pipe re-coated with a new ceramic coating as the original by V&H is crap. The current O2 mounts are at a 45 degree angle with the long side at around 2.5cm from the pipe. Have not removed the sensor to see what portion would be 'visible inside the pipebut I suggest very little.

original pics before fitting 2 years ago

with O2 sensor now

 

 

Hilly
I done this mod 8 months ago and you will notice the bikes idle will change with both cylinders firing even a few minutes after start up as the ECM starts getting fresh data.

 Well done Hilly,

Noticed that the bungs in the Bubs are very similar to what you had...............and I just had some welding repairs done too!!

I can't really complain how the old girl was runnin though, pretty happy with it! About to fit em to the new girl this weekend.

Interested to see your results, may consider this mod in future.

Burto.

Thanks mate, looks good from the pics. Keep us posted on your gut feelings when you ride it. The data can come whenever.

 Hilly, have you got a link or whatever to the recommended bung positioning that you used for this mod? Looks like I'm gonna have to modify mine to suit the 2012 FB.

Cheers,

Burto.

 Thanks for the info Hilly,

Picked up my pipes from the welder today after he welded in a couple of new bungs for me. Because the 2012 Fatbob now has 12mm bungs, I had to modify from the old 18mm bungs they had. We used a couple of 12mm (1.25) nuts that he had left over from another job.

After turning them down to 6mm thick (just slightly longer than the threads on the sensors which will give maximum protrusion into the exhaust flow), he welded the front bung into a new position about 300mm below the exhaust flange. This is roughly where the stock sensor is now located. Decided to just block the old bung off, instead of removing it.

The stock rear sensor is still located as before, roughly 100mm from the exhaust flange. I'm not sure why they did not move it down further as well, so I thought it best to keep it in the same place as the stock pipes. This was done by cutting and grinding off the original bung as short as possible and welding the new 12mm bung (nut) to it. I got him to lessen the angle of the bung as well.

You can see from the photos the results.........wacked a coat of high temp ceramic paint to the whole lot while I was at it.

Will fit the pipes to the bike tommorrow and see how it goes............ still waiting on new pro tuner to arrive, so will get a better idea then.

Burto.

 Good to hear Hilly............sounds like all the research and hard work has paid off mate! It's a great feeling when you fix up something thats been irking you for a while.

Know how you feel about just wantin to ride it after a spell off the road!.........the 2 months for me felt like 2 years!!!!!

Oh, and thanks for sharing your work too mate!

Burto.

Mate glad to she's back on the road. I am swapping out my O2 Sensors tomorrow morning. I bought 2 new ones this week as I reckon I got lazy ones sitting in the pipes. I intend to record data before and after, and when I get around to welding in the bungs I will do another data recording. The bungs I bought are the straight type the same as yours so just got to bite the bullet and get them in. Going to have to suck up to a bloke at work to get them welded in in the next couple of weeks. Old Harvey s range road is nice straight road and the hills up the top would have blown out the cobwebs.

Hilly we are all here to learn, your post has been a big learning curve to me, that's why I took an interest in it.....

And yep ROBBO is a worry but shit his posts crack me up

If you have any friends with a dead stock bike you can use DataMaster and make a recording of the O2's from a cold start. This is the best way to have you see what you guys should expect down there. Once this recording has been made you can see how long it takes for the O2's to come online and start working and what the switching looks like, use this as your guide. Now you want to just let the bike sit and warm up NO twisting the throttle while making this recording! Then do the same on your modified bike, if it does not do close to the same thing the odds are pretty good your going to have trouble along the way with the O2's.

VTD is the alarm active. Looks good mate, getting nice transitions for the O2 Sensors.
I did notice that during warm up the 02 Voltages were quite different between the front and rear. The front dropped in voltage a lot quicker than the rear, but once it got to temp they leveled out nicely.

 Hilly, I like what you have done here. It has prompted me to do something with mine.

But there just doesn't seem to be the clearance at the headers on the sporty to fit the new O2 ports at right angles to the pipe.

 

 

 

 

 

REAR PIPE 

 

I thought (going on memory, thats not so good), that when i installed my pipes they made a big deal about having the sensors at the correct height (inside the pipe), I am I wrong, curious as I am putting the SE255 cam in and got some new baffles on the way so I will be retuning next month some time?

Gotta be better than what it was. You mention a couple of post back about low RPM reading. That is always where I have found problems sampling. Crank it WFO and a 2-3 pressure in the pipe can help readings.