Hi all!

I'm fairly new to Harleys having had my Iron since June, having a blast and learning heaps in the process.  I'm pretty much a tool-tard but over time I'll be learning to work on this thing by myself.  I have a few questions regarding rain and stuffs.

Up here in FNQ we've had a taste of the wet season over the past week and it's been BUCKETING DOWN for a few days, starting to fine up now.  In a couple of months it will be really wet for a while.  I have my rain-suit which I got to test out this week and seems to work well enough though I need to get some boots as my work shoes ended up full of water on the way home from work (1/2 hour ride).

Firstly, when I got home I noticed there was water in the ignition (the key was dripping wet when I pulled it out) and the next morning the ignition was kinda stiff to get the key into.  Sprayed some WD40 on the key and popped it in and out a few times and seemed to fix it.  This could be an issue though as I will be riding in the rain a fair bit (the bike is my work vehicle) and storing the bike in a parking lot during the day (no undercover area).  I was thinking that I could stick a leather cap or  glad-wrap and rubber band over the ignition while I'm at work but not so much while I'm riding.  What is a good way to keep the water out?  Is it an issue to blast some WD40 in the keyhole?

Secondly, as soon as it rains up here all the P-platers with V6's and V8's come out and slip/slide all over the road like drift racers on a rally track and naturally they wrap themselves around power poles, flip over on roundabouts and generally make accidents which slows down the traffic immensely - my 1/2 hour ride to work is sometimes an hour due to one little fender-bender.  This leaves me in traffic driving around 10km/hr and stop/starting for 20mins or so.  I don't know how the rest of you go but my little beast doesnt really like to drive at 10km/hr, either I'm lagging the engine and riding the clutch to creep forward or I'm in 1st gear going "BLAT-bah-dah-bah-BLAT-BLAT-bah-dah-bah-dah-bah-BLAT" and the bike giving a surge on the BLAT's.  Makes it an uncomfortable ride.   I don't really think riding the clutch is a good way to ride along, almost idle but engaging the clutch enough to roll foward a few meters and doing this for 20mins gives my left hand a workout (and no happy ending).   Any tips how to work around this? 

Thanks for any advice, I like listening to opinions and ideas how other guys treat their issues.

 

Cheers,

Shred.

 

I noticed a little problem with my left indicator staying on solid when riding in the wet for a couple of days. But after it dried out the problem went away so I didn't worry about it.

I agree with you about the roundabouts, I find them very slippery when wet and I approach them with a lot of caution. I'm interested to read how others deal with them.

With wet or even slightly damp roundabouts I have a blanket rule: DO NOT BRAKE ON THE ROUNDABOUT! I tend to wind down the gears a fair way back so I'm in the low part of 3rd gear (about 40k's) coming into it or sometimes high 2nd gear (about 35k's) and hold that constant until I'm on the exit and slowly creep back to speed.

I've seen too many cars and bikes hit the roundabouts too fast, hit the brakes and instantly slide off the side (or flip into the middle).

What about a waterproof rain jacket for the bike, will stop water in the ignition while its sitiin at work. As for rain in the ignition while riding? ride really fast!! "Jokes"

 Shredmaster

 Resign yourself to the fact that your bike will suffer the consequences of being an all seasons rider and come to terms with the inevitable results (surface deterioration). Don't be afraid of water dispersant sprays. Wash and polish your bike as often as possible - weekly if you can. When having the bike serviced, pay attention to cables, bearings etc to ensure they remain suitably lubricated. Avoid any painted surfaces on the road. Avoid shiny surfaces on the road. Allow more "reaction time". Treat everyone like an idiot and ALWAYS look around and think to yourself  "what's the worst thing that could happen right now and how would I deal with it". Dress approptiately but be aware that in heavy rain - you WILL get wet. Keep spare socks & jocks at work (it's never good to spend the day in damp socks & jocks).

 

I'd avoid WD 40 type lubricants for locks - the silicone sprays or graphite powder are best lubricants for locks. Be aware graphite powder is really messy shit so poofing the powder onto the KEY and sliding in & out a few times is tidier than squirting it into the lock itself.

 

 

Hi mate, living in NQ has its drawbacks for sure one is the rain and the other which is often down played is the humidity. A good product for ignition switches, lube throttle cables and anything that hinges is INOX. Used it for years on my boats and bikes. Locksmiths use it as it doesn't gum up as much as some products.

I ride everyday up here clocking up 17,000km since December last year and about to head to Bundy and back. The bike's paint and shiney bits have taken a bit of a beating, try my best to minimize the affects of the weather and fair wear and tare from being my mode of transport, but have resigned myself to the fact that the more you ride the more battle scars (character) your gonna get.

Anyway thats my two bobs worth and remember that CHROME DON'T GET YOU HOME.

rain = rust

washing = rust

air =corrosion

Im going to bubble wrap mine


p.s thanks for the rubber glove over the ignition tip
cheers

Wow thanks heaps for the advice and replies, I think I will go and get me some of that silicone spray, that's a good idea. I just knew there would be something better than WD40 or CRC.

I've been toying with the idea of a bike cover but I'm the kind of idiot who would put it on the wet bike, watch the hot bits melt through and then watch further as the sun comes out and steam-cooks my bike for the afternoon. I'll probably end up getting one or two in the next month, depends how long it takes me to fuck up the first one.

I was definately prepared for all-season riding up here (both hot and wet seasons) which is 1/2 the reason I settled on the Iron - nice and black and less likely to get that powedery-white corrosion over the engine. There are some little rust spots I'm seeing like where the footpegs are connected but these I'm prepared to live with having to keep them at bay.

Oh and I definately will keep letting people know that I ride in all weather, I get alot of amusing looks going into the servo on a rainy day with the typical "nice day for a ride, mate" which really makes me want to just put a screwdriver in their ear...

Cheers,
Shred.

Cairns, like Darwin and the Top End have bugger all, to no rain for 6 months of the year during the dry season. All the grime such as oil, diesel etc. accumulates on the road over this period. First couple of rains and it a well known fact up here, the roads become like ice skating rinks. Slippery as. I'd be taking caution, not only on the roundabouts but all the roads until a decent down pour washes the roads clean.

Ya know what the wet season is like, no matter what you do, the moisture will get into everything and everything leather will grow mould!

Thanks Megalomaniac

"...ACF-50 which can be applied to the inside of electrical connectors, was extremely beneficial in solving intermittent electrical contact problems on the aircraft..."   ....

..."only ACF-50 should be used for both internal and external portions  of avionics and electrical connectors ..."

".. Fort Campbell received an Aircraft that had been partially submerged in saltwater. After a thorough rinse , the entire aircraft was treated with liberal amounts of  ACF-50. This effort has proved beneficial in preventing corrosion as a result of salt water immersion of the aircraft. "

 Quotes from PAPER 9, US ARMY experience with water displacement compounds on US ARMY Aircraft

 

 ACF-50 should be appearing on shelves at good Harley and Victory Dealer Stores and all the better aftermarket bike shops. Keep an eye out for the distinctive silver and purple can.

ACF- 50 was specifically developed for aircraft Air-frame and Avionics electronics protection, the US military use it to protect all Jets, Prop and Helicopter airframes. It is non-combustive and contains no petroleum based spirits or distillates, unlike silicone based products it will not damage plastics/rubbers (most siicone manufacturers suggest limited use on rubber and plastic-check the fine print!).

Assa Abloy (Locksmith) recommend only one product for their Intelli-Key system lock cylinders and that comes from the manufacturer of ACF-50, using anything else in these advanced locks will void the warranty. So use ACF-50 in bike locks and spray into electrical and electronic connectors.

 When ACF-50 is applied to cables and connectors the product will creap into the cable strands and expell damaging moisture.

You can use ACF-50 on everything on your bike accept calipers,rotors,seats and handgrips,,, apply it to everything and keep your bike looking new.

More info at www.blockchemical.com and order via www.dansbikeshop.biz if you can't get it locally.

 

ACF-50 a compound designed for use in these conditions:

SB3-Viking Aircraft on US carrier

ACF-50 being applied to inner air frame, again Viking aircraft

ACF-50 application to ES3A Shadow intelligence aircraft

Fogging Horizontal STAB with ACF-50

fogging OWP lower spoiler well

Application to Radome, coating Radar and associated electronics with ACF-50

ACF-50 holds written OEM approvals from the following manufacturers: Bombardier Regional Aircraft, Douglas/Boeing Helicopter, ATR Regional Transport, Bell Helicopter Textron, The New Piper Aircraft, Gulfstream Aerospace, Robinson Helicopter, McDonnell Douglas, Enstrom Helicopter, Schweitzer Aircraft, British Aerospace, Concorde Battery, Raytheon Aircraft, Sikorsky Aircraft, MD Helicopters, Cessna Aircraft, Pilatus Aircraft, Beech Aircraft, Van's Aircraft, Extra Aircraft, Hiller Aircraft, Air Tractor, Lake Aircraft, Rolls-Royce, Britten-Norman Aircraft, Learjet, and Canadair.