I have been looking at Big Joe's site and am interested in the exhaust valve bypass plug (looks like a very simple and easy way to keep valve open).

I have a Softail with SE slip ons and Hi flow filter--- no flash or computer upgrades.

What my question is, what is to be gained by keeping the valve open. I understand you get a small amount of power gain but is there anything else.

Basic question I know, but my last bike was a 1977 Bonnie and had straight through pipes and carbs, and I am having trouble coming to grips with FI and computer control.

Over to you perhaps Big Joe???

Thanks

Greg

Hi Greg,

As Stix states, the main advantages are keeping both pipes open and a better sound, especially if you are using slip ons. It also allows you to install aftermarket pipes without the DTC errors coming up on the dash.

If you look at the stock mufflers, you will see that the front pipe has a smaller internal diameter than the rear pipe. But it is the front pipe that takes all the gases through the riding range. Slipons are a big improvement to this but you are still having all your gas go through one pipe. The plug will allow you to keep your exhaust actuator open at all times so you end up with a free-er flowing system. You also get a better sound out of it as the gases are exiting from both cans and not all chocked up.

On a separate note, I notice that you mentioned you have slip ons with a hi flow air cleaner, but nothing done re the fuel map. The bikes run pretty lean for emission purposes in stock form. By opening up the intake and the exhaust, you are letting more air in without increasing the fuel contribution, potentionally making things much leaner. While the 07s have O2 sensors, these generally operate in the range of 14.6:1 and usually on very light load and light cruise speeds. When you give it a bit of a handful of throttle, the ecm goes into open loop and uses whatever map is in there. In your case, that sounds like it is the stock version.

Its your call, but I would recommend doing something about your fuel curve. You will be surprised at how much you can improve the temp of the engine as well as the performace when you run the mixture closer to 13-13.5:1.


Hope that answers your question.

Kind regards

Mick

had a guy pull out my flap after reading i think 3hp gain on docs bike [ltr] on the dyno ,mine looks like it all works but there is nothink in there , that flap in there is like a slight u shape, so with it screwed open as the hd dealers do it would deff restrict it quite a lot

Thanks for the info. I guess I really do need to look at getting something done about the fuel map. It is already getting to 35C up here at the moment.

I understand that the standard computer can be re flashed to enrich the mixture, is this a viable option? I dont intend on doing any major performance mods for a while.

What is the ball park cost of getting it done? Is there a better option for a bit more cash perhaps?

Heaps more questions I know, thanks

Greg

Greg,

I've done some research in this area, and although I don't have the technical knowledge of some of the other guys I've heard that the V&H fuelpak is a good low cost solution for those that just intend modifying their bikes with just pipes and AC. You can get one delivered from US ebay for around $250. See this ad:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VANCE-HINES-FUELPAK-FUEL-PAK-2001-07-SOFTAIL-INJECTED_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35574QQihZ013QQitemZ230170560945

$16.40 to deliver to AU.

I'll probably be getting one of these very soon.

keep an eye on this site , au site ,

chop is always adding some nice cheap gear www.hellboundchoppers.com.au/templates/hellbound_content.aspx

Hi Greg,

it all depends on what sort of flexibility you are looking for. From memory, the dealers will do a download for about $150. There may be others that can provide it cheaper.

The fuel pak is one option but there isnt much flexibility in that you have to go to V&H for a map if you change anything. Dobeck is another option that looks ok for most users also. It is a bit like tuning a carb in terms of not too technical. THe power commander is another option with a little more flexibility. Next comes the SERT ( Screaming Eagle Race tuner) - great units- allow remapping of the stock ecm and flexibility. The other units are piggy back units that sit in addition to the stock ecm.

Then there is the thundermax and daytona twin tec- great units that are full closed loop wide band operation. You get what you pay for.

I would suggest that the remap is not he way I would choose. At least one of the piggy back units would be a better option.

hope that helps

Regards

Mick

G'day Mick

Thanks for your advice mate, I guess spend a bit more initially then have greater flexibility in the long run. I see what you are getting at. The bike will be with me for a long time so more research for me I think.

Thanks again
Greg

Hi Guys. Sorry i just got to look at the thread. Yep. Everything that Mick.

sorry guys i didnt do it , i might be able to put the adelaide guys onto the dude if ur interested, ill sus it out if ya want , its in the parafeild area ,

i no he totaly cut n shut my exaust / that little area and looks stock still

i no its still spring loaded and ya can see right in there now/ up the pipe without slipon

here are the pics of the bits i got back

cant say if i could feel the diff as i had it done when i workt over the donk, did read about neville lush tuning victor doing orange betty i think it was

 

Any info would be good mate.

im thinking it lookt like they cut the round shaft of, removed that bush ya see in the pic n then welded a little washer right next to were it comes in, ya could even leave that motor thing on there so it worked if ya needed to

Cheers mate

Greg check out what mick has written in this thread. also check out my website for a simple plug in fix rather than having to hack the exhaust system. just click on the link at the top of the page.

Big Joe

Your plug fix is on my "TO GET" list.

Greg

No probs mate. Just seems futile to hack the exhaust when the flap could be held open with a simple plug that takes about 1 minute to fit.

i do agree , mine was screwd open 4 the 1st few months i owned it ,but at the end of the day 3hp is 3 hp , i would of never done it but im after as much as i can get

To get more HP, I would suggest some free-er flowing pipes without the butterfly to start with, a PC3 or other fuel adjument mechanism, and the intake.

We ran a stock 07 with the flap open and one with the stage 1 arrangement above and it was like the stock bike was stationary. Totally different rides.

To each their own.

cheers

mick

i think its a better idea to get better pipes 4 sure , i only pulled mine as i run stock headers with the SS slipons, they say its a good combination for big HP moters, if my number are down when i get a dyno i will change to a D&D fatcat,  by the feel of me pants its fairly up on hp and im more than happy with it

Hi Nobody.

The servo motor can be set up to hold the flap open. Once the servo motor has the flap open, the plug is used to allow you to disconnect the servo motor( allowing it to keep the flap open) and not give you any grief with the dtc codes.

To do this simply follow this process.

Start bike ( butterfly will open at idle).

Turn ignition off ( at tank) with run switch still on.
This will leave the flap open as power is directly cut from the servo motor, not allowing it to come back to its home position.

Disconnect the plug from the actuator motor.

The butterfly will now stay open. The problem is that you will end up with the dash error code when you turn the ignition on. If this is something you can live with, thats cool. If not, the plug eliminates the prob.

Hope that explains things for you.

Let me know if you have any questions.

cheers

Mick