+1 for the brake lever not returning. I ended up having to put a new seal kit in the front master cylinder. The lever was not returning to it's correct position to put pressure on the light switch inside the housing. Other than that the small switch has broken and will nee to be replaced.

It you have changed your Grips or Bars, You have Broken the Switch. The Trick is before you undo your Brake Leaver, YOU MUST INSERT SOMETHIING TO WEGE THE LEAVER OPEN 2 OR 3 MM, This avoids you Braking the Switch when you bolt it all back on

When you pull the lever in you should hear a slight click as the lever disengages the switch.it only has to move about 2-5mm. And when you release the lever you should hear the same slight click as the lever pushes onto the switch.

Mine is the other way round. Brake light only works when I use the front brake. Nothing when using the rear. Where's the switch for the rear brake? (I haven't looked yet but I'm sure I'll find it) Hope it's not part of the internals of the mastercylinder.

Thanks for the tip Walka. Changing the levers tonite.

The Rear Switch is on the TEE just on the Frame under the Oil Tank, If you follow the Rear Brake Line it will take you to it, The Wire may of came off, If not it's easy to change. The Front one is a Pain and Expencive

Mate if he didnt know about how to remove the Handcontrols without Braking the Switch, I would find a new shop

the little switch in the front brake lever must be a pain ( my mate wrecked his too ) only noticed it when the light kept flickering. Test the led tail light ( only 3 wires - 1. earth 2. stop 3. tail ) they are normally very reliable.

Als it is not that hard to replace. cut and crimp. Been there done that. For such a small thing they are a pain in the arse. When they first came out they were a common problem with HD under warranty then they changed the rules and made the a non warranty item.. The things is to use a piece of cardboard between the brake lever and the switch, to take the pressure of the lever when you remove it. Once you have done it then you will know what to do

I noticed this mornign that mine is starting to stay on now.  it is not the switch but the plunger not pushing the lever back all the way so it depresses the plunger.

I have put a kit in it earlier this year.  I am going to try some wd inside other than that I think the housing may need replacing or a sleeve put into the bore.  Brakes are fine just the light staying on occassionally.

 

Hmm never thought of that....

Its a prick of a problemo - i have same issue with 03 wide glide - my stop light is staying on and i checked the back switch which was good then checked the front and i have a worn rubber (probably from too much sex) - is that something that i can fix myself or do i need to take it to the local HD stealer - i have jammed some padding in between the lever and the switch as a temporary fix and it is works for the momento - any tips on how to replace without causing rampant destruction would be appreciated - cheers

I replaced mine a while ago as I broke the nipple of the switch, easy fix, shrink wrap and a new switch then cut and join the 2 wires, solder the joint and put it all back together. Getting the switch is the hard part as HD want squillions for them. I picked mine up off Ebay for $25.00 locally and it was a spare just in case....The key thing is using that cardboard when removing the lever so as not to damage the switch assy.

On another issue check that the lever is returning to it;'s full off position. If it isn't then it will not depress the switch. I had that issue and in the end all it needed was a spray with RP7/WD40 onto the brake plunger behind the lever and work the lever. With the bike off and where possible as quiet as it can be depress the lever slowly and listing in close to see if you can hear the switch clicking and when you release the leaver you should be able to hear it click off as well. If the switch is broken then replace.

cheers and thanks for that - i appreciate the advice - the brake lever returns nicely but the rubber boot on the end of the switch is ratshit - i went into the HD stealer today and he wanted $76 for a new switch and said it would probably take 2 to 3 hours removing tank and running wires - i like your soldering idea better - i will try EBAY and see whether they list anything there - are they universal?

Yep both the clutch and brake switch are the same. Even try US ebay as I have seen them on there as well.

Also I don't know where the dealer got the idea about running wires from. The wires on the switch are only about 2" long! So he is bullshitting that part. Just trying to rip you off with labor.

cheers - i saw one on EBAY USA - i will get that one and give it a try - i also ordered a service manual on disk which was real cheap - thanks

When you put it in make sure you use the cardboard to protect the nipple, also give the plunger a good clean with RP7 or something similar and give it a good wipe out to get the gunk out. Also the switch has a small brass piece inside the switch housing so be careful when you take the housing apart. And careful on the throttle cables, The small brass retainers on the cables are a pain if you drop one on the floor. As I found out when I changed my cables over.