I've just put  a 103 Stage 2 kit into a 2009 StreetBob. The kit includes 255 cams. All went together fine, apart from concerns with lack of freeplay on the pushrods after the cam was installed(thanks Ando - I left it a bit longer to bleed down and all was fine). So, with a new Map plugged into the SuperTuner, I hit the start button. The bike fired into life, although sounding a bit tappity from the rear cylinder. I let it idle for 30 seconds and the tapping didnt seem to subside, however I did notice that the engine oil light was still on. I shut her down, and checked the oil level. Slightly over  the FULL mark, but I don't think that should kepp the light on. This raises a few questions  -

 

1 - How quickly should oil take to get round a rebuilt motor? Will too much oil cause the light to stay on?

2 - Whats the easiest way to check for correct oil flow?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated, I'm thinking that if I can ensure correct oil flow around the motor, then the tapping will stop?

 

Thanks

 

Carlos

yes, the oil pump came out as i was removing the cams....... however, when i put the cams back in I spun the engine over whilst tightening the pump back up as per the manual......... ????

Stix,

the gerator and separators came out as I pulled the camset out. And having just looked at the manual I might see the problem, ttheres every  chance that I may have put the separator plate back in the wrong order!!!!Shiiit!!!! I shall strip it back down in the morning!!! 

I'll let you know how I go on! 

You clearly have no oil pressure.
but to be clear...
1.A. Oil light should go straight out, and tapping stop pretty much instantly. B. No. Too much oil will not cause the light to stay on.
2. Remove the spark plugs, and oil light switch, and wind motor over(I normally disconnect coil power wire connector). Oil should flow from switch location.

Assuming that you had the oil pump assembled wrong, you are now facing a couple of dynamics. You have run the engine for 30 secs(according to you) and there was no oil pressure. So you might want to go to a bit of extra effort to ensure oil distribution before refiring the engine. As in, winding it over with plugs out(with oil switch in of course) a few times, in 10 second bursts. Assuming you did not take any action to drain or purge the sum area, you should still have adequate "splash" happening there. You just need to satisfy yourself that all is in order again, and ready to be started.

Update time -

Stripped the oil pump out and found I'd re-assembled it wrong! (Thanks Stix).  Thats corrected now.

I then did as DynaRider suggested (thanks mate), spun the motor over with plugs out to try and get a bit of oil circulated around, as I'd originally dropped the oil as a precursor to the motor upgrade.  I repeated this 3 times, and then put the plugs back in. I fired it up and almost instantly the oil went out. However, I only ran it for 15 seconds as the top end still sounds tappity.

I don't really want to run it for long without putting a bit of load on it to help bed the new rings in, however I also want to to be sure that the oil is getting to where it should be. As an aside, I've put a D&D Fat Cat 2 into 1 on as well, and this is pretty loud, so it's hard to describe the level of tappity!!

The advice I'm looking for, I suppose, is how long would a motor devoid of oil take for sufficient oil to get through all lubrication ways? I'm thinking that when the bikes are first prepped by the HD Techs at the dealership, they fill the dry motor up and run it till oil circulates around? If this is done previously in the factory, then at some point a motor must be run dry???

Another question is, with the 255 cams and standard pushrods, lifters and valves, should I expect a bit more tappity???

Thanks in advance

 

Carlos

If we take look at the situation of an entirely new engine being assembled.

The factory assembles them (relatively) dry, as that makes it easier than handling a heap of wet parts.
They then use a dedicated machine to pressure feed oil through the engine(from multiple points), before any start-up.

In a non factory environment, the following is pretty typical.
Some form of assembly lube is used as appropriate, so that there is lubrication at start-up.
The oil pump is bled so that it will pump oil straight away.
Some will actually use the starter motor to get oil around the engine before start-up(or kickstart, or back tyre).
If the oil filter is on the feed side, some like to fill it up before start-up.

If the lifters are"dry" (which means lubed, but not full) they will/should pump up pretty well instantly on start-up.
It takes next to no time for oil to circulate(as in a few seconds tops). On models where you can see the oil returning, it is only about a few more seconds before you can see the oil coming back.

If a cam lifts higher, then more valve spring pressure is applied, and the more likely it is that an audible "click" may be present. Ramp design and pushrod adjustment has an effect here as well. To my mind, SE 255 are not an excessively noisy cam.

To satisfy yourself that oil is indeed circulating, you can confirm that the oil in the tank is becoming aerated and warm, and that the oil filter is heating up (if the engine is run long enough).

I made the decision to fire the bike up again. Not wanting to let it sit and idle without putting a bit of load onto the new piston rings, I'd drag it out of the garage ready to take it round the block. So, jacket and helmet on and pushed the starter, and nothing!!! I reckon all the priming of the oil pump had been too much!  

The battery was on charge all day, and I gave it another try this arvo. The valvetrain was still noisier than I thought it should be, however, my thoughts were to take it around the block for about 1klm, and see how it was. A very nervewracking ride later, and all excess noise had gone! 

Then I took it on a 40klm spin, and all seems OK. 

I'll do a quick oil and filter change now, then again after 800k's, and then I'll see what the figures are on the dyno. 

Thanks to all for information offered!

 

Regards

 

Carlos  

one last question regarding engine break-in. I've been reading an article here

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

and am wondering whether anyones gone this route?

Also,how many k's should I get up before putting it on the dyno or taking it down the 1/4 mile?

Carlos 

I have always just ridden normaly(rode hard without thrashing the crap out of it) when i bought my 96 cuber, it has never used oil from new.
fitted a 103 kit and crane 310 cams & a soon as the rocker boxes were warm to touch road it up to 5000 - 5500rpm after 6 - 8ks.
8000kms later it does not use any oil & still goes hard.
You can dyno a new motor but a poor operator can do more damage than good.

cheers
Yob