So just wanted to vent a little. I cant seem to find much in the way of a forum directly linked to shit that happens with FXDF (stuff is all over the place but not in one place).

So here is a run down of my shit, that can hopefully help someone out of their shit.

Clunk in front. (no fix)
Everyone seems to know that Dyna's have a clunk in the front. Guess what Harley obviously don't give a rats because nothing has ever being done to fix the issue. And from what i can tell people have tried all kinds of solutions. It's no the lubricant, it doesn't need spacers, there is nothing wrong with your headstem bearings so don't even bother being fooled at your own expense. (although your headstem might need tighting every now and then)

Rear wiring loom burn out (warranty)
Well it seems that I had a rare case (not my words) where my rear wiring loom burnt out. They dont know why because it was all burnt beyond recognition. symtoms included indicator flashes but nothing the matched any code in the books.

Front left wiring loom burn out (warranty)
Once again, dont know why. Symptoms, plastic burning smell.

Right hand switch controls (thingy, gone blank) (warranty)
This burnt out as well, some cross connection in the housing. No symtoms that I recall, it was found when they fixed the left loom.

Exhaust mount bottom rear (first time warranty, waiting for second time should be covered)
Week one after purchase centre bolt disappeared, obviously fell out due to vibration. This has since happended again, but now one step further, bottom nut has vansihed as well and the top bolt has sheared off.

Had big bore kit put in, great torq etc. But problem with starting and had flat battery. If I was going to do again I might use the S&S easy start cams instead. I used the SE255 cams (well not me, but the mechanic).
Even though I have this shitty issue, I would highly recommend Eastern Big Twin for any mechanical work. I have found that they always go beyond and find a solution for you. They are very thorough when explaining all works to you before it's done and why they choose to use certain parts rather than others. Brian would also have to be one of the best dyno tuners in the business in melbourne at least. I will generally cost you a little more at the end of the day but their work is worth it.

 

That's all faulks.....

Clunk in the front was due to the steering head being under torqued from the factory, known issue, I had the clunk and it was gone after being torqued correctly at a service. I think the torque should be 70 ft/lb, and they left the factory at 10 ft/lb.

Your wiring issue sucks.

 Fuck Mate, you musta got a monday or friday built model!!

2010 model...........only issue I had was a sheared bolt on the exhaust bracket (bolt to gearbox).......is that the one you were talkin about?

Never had no front end "clunk".......wiring is still intact!

Burto

Top bolt exhaust mounting has broken on a couple of occassions. Exhaust started to rattel on thursday so I had a look and found that the top bolt snapped off bottom bolt snapped off third mount and housing broken completly,so the only thing holding the system on was the headers. Spent a couple of hours yesterday and remounted the bracket so I can still get to work. Have been told it is a warranty job,so off to the dealers next week.

Shit mate, mine is over 3 years old and not a problem! Gets ridden fairly hard, so I do oil and filter myself every 3 - 4000km and run a spanner over the nuts and bolts I can get to, but that's about it.

Hope you get yours sorted, as I reckon they're a great bike!!!

Sounds like you got the bike built during the play offs for the Base ball mate. i will say though I took mine back before it's first service because I felt the steering was a little off, they torqued it up and been good ever since. Hope you get it sorted mate.

Hang in there,,, not much more to go wrong .lol

Thanks Markfxd. Had the torq done early on in the piece. Made very little difference. Putting her in today for the exhaust mounts and will get them to check starting issue. I think I might need a bigger starter as it's having problems cranking. For those reading, this is not an issue with a stock 96, I had mine bored to 103" which puts out about 111 pounds of torq in the rear, which is real nice when overtaking at any speed although next time I think I will just buy a S&S engine. Thanks for feedback.

Yep, the exhaust mount to the gear box. I have asked Peter Stevens to send a report to HD australia as PS are suggesting the cause was from the exhaust scrapping the ground. I disagree for a couple of reason, one I scrapped the exhaust on the ground over a year ago and two several people on this and other forums have reported the same issue. So basically if HD australia dont warrant it I am looking at 10hours + labour and gear box housing $$$$.

Great news, HD Aus have okeyd them to try and extract the bolts. But they need my bike for another day or two.

You would be better of trying compression releases before worrying about a bigger & better starter motor! I'm runnning 103", 10.2:1 compression and have just fitted some 2011 flowed heads with the Automatic Compression Releases(ACRs). Turns over easy as now!!

As far as the exhaust bracket goes.........I had that bolt shear off and also lost one of the nuts! This was just before I put on my Bub 2-1 system.

I have been scrapin the fuck outa the pipes (up until I modified for more ground clearance) and have had no issues with the bolts supplied by BUB. I reckon the factory exhaust bracket bolts were inferior quality!

Burto.

Thanks Burto, I was thinking of a compression release. I was only concerned with cost of labour to install  v's cost of better starter.

I read some where, there are spark plugs with built in compression releases.Must google it

Bugger mate, mines 3.5 yrs old, ridden flat out everywhere and not a single issue ( reaches over and touches wooden table) lol, hopefully you have a trouble free ride from now on brother

Took mine in yeterday and showed him the chiped fork paint, said he will cover that, master cylinder paint coming off yeap will cover that. I then showed him the broken housing, "fuck me" was his reply, said he had never seen or heard of it before. He took a lot of photos and said he would have to contact HD first to see what they have to say.

 No issues with mine. As for the hard starting go for the decompressors. Mine is still 96 but with SE HiComp Heads 10.5:1 with manual decompressors. It really labours to start if you forget to press the decomps first. Other wise she turns over with ease.

fyi for FatBob users my clunk turned our to be fuel tank - the front bolt tank to frame came ridicorously loose.

yeah heard of that happening, blue 243 loctite is your friend, use it everywhere

Thanks Hilly. I did at one point figure out a good timing with starting awhile ago but it just got worse. I am getting my cams chnaged over to the new S&S easy start cams, this will definately fix the problem and will change from chain to gear cams to give me better performance as well. I have heard too many bad story about decompressors both external and internal, so we will see what the S&S are like.

Humby, when you say housing broken..housing to what? Also didn't know they would warrant the paint chip forks, mine has this aswell.