After numerous vtunes and EGR adjustments, found I had to remove heaps of timing to try to eliminate knock, so much so that the bike started to run like shit! Realised that this was probably not the right calibration (DPI 176) for my build! so I gave up on it.

Decided to do what I should have done in the 1st place.........try all the suitable calibrations in their canned state before deciding which one ran the best. As I did this I did sparkdata runs on each one as well, over the same short course for each one.

All but one map showed a fair bit of knock. The map that showed no knock was DPS 176, which is a map suited to standard heads. Coincidently, I was running the MT7 version of this map with great results before fitting the new heads. I also compared how each cal felt while riding and the DPS felt smoother with more power than any of the other cals ....which were all for "performance heads". Seems odd as the VEs are probably furthest from my build compared the others!

Anyway, DPS 176 it is...........the next thing I wanted to try was cam setting adjustment comparisons.

The Camshaft Analyzer gave me an IVO of #2, which I am happy to stay with. The IVCs however cannot be determined without a dyno.........so I thought I would run the same cal with both IVC settings of #2 and #3 and compare the difference.

There was not a real noticeable difference to be felt but the #2 seemed to run a little rougher and had a slight bit more "gurgle" on deceleration. I probably changed between the two about 4 times before I could tell them apart! Anyway, I have set it back to #3, which is where the estimator puts it for the woods 6.

Now for the 1st vtune run..........First thing I noticed was how much easier it was to get hits in a lot more cells than the other map, you can see from the histogram that I got a good range of green! I was able to get a lot more of the "lugging" areas without getting so many AFR faults.

Below is the 1st Vtune generated.........obviously a fair bit of change, no doubt due to the higher flowing heads. Will need to get a few more vtune dataruns in to bring the percentages down. I won't be worrying about the EGR tables this time round!

Burto.

 Its a thing of beauty, aint it!!!!!!

45 mins on some hilly sections of road..............steeper hills are definitely a bonus! I would have thought that Castle Hill in some lower gears would be of benefit for you?

Regarding the EGRs........yes Mate, I will give them a miss this time around!..........Still really trying to come to grips with the rest of the process!........I shouldnta let you bastards talk me into it!!!!!!!!!!

Burto.

 Haven't ridden up Castle Hill since '86...............imagine it is a little busier nowadays!!!!!!

Burto.

 Alright!! ........Had a win today!

3 more vtunes on the DPS-176 cal and I have come up with this............

I reckon one more run may remove a little more of the "pink" but I don't think it would be much. Due to the fact that I am "vtuned out" at the moment I am going to stick with this map for now!

I loaded it in with only AKR set to zero and did a sparkdata run on the way home........rode it like I stole it, lugged it here and there, concentrated on areas that I got knock in before and whadaya Know...........NOT A SKERIC OF KNOCK! ..........Gotta be happy with that!

Will add 2* up to 80kpa next weekand fine tune the spark curve.  

The weekend after I think the local HD dealer is having a dyno shootout again so hopefully I can get up there and get some figures on paper. Gonna make last years 78HP and 90Tq look a bit ordinary I'd say.

Though I have only done a few kays on this map so far, I can tell that it is a good tune.........runs real smooth, accelerates beautifully, no decel pop!

More tweaking of the timing and then letting it adjust itself a little over time should produce a really good tune I think. No expert, but after 20,000kms, I reckon I know this bike and when it's running sweet!!!

Burto.

 Thats the go dev1!

You will find that after time the vtuning will become easier, once you get all the glitches sorted (know how you feel, had plenty of probs with loose usb, laptop probs, etc,)

If you are confident then vtuning with the laptop open in front of you makes it so much easier to get all those cells. BUT, you gotta remember to watch where your going, more than watching the screen, not hard to come unstuck!!! I occasionally find myself nearly off the road, or worse, on the wrong side!! It can be hard sometimes to get your eyes off the little "X" and back on the road in front of you!

Regarding the O2 sensors..........a while back I was running too rich a map and found that they played up and ran yellow a lot. Now that I'm on a leaner map, they both stay green most of the time with only the occasional flash of yellow. Both very even as well.

After you have finished vtuning, you really should do a sparkdata run to check if you have any knock. OK, if you do......the knock sensors may well eliminate it, thus protecting your motor from damage............ BUT, they will also bugger up your tune to some extent as they can tend to take out way more timing than is necessary!. Definitely well worth doing!!

Plenty on here to walk you thru it if need be.

Burto.

 One thing I noticed since running MT8 cals is my 6 gear idiot light works again..............wonder if TTS sorted this glitch out?........or is it just my bike.

Have not changed primary ratio from original.

Anyone else noticed this?

Burto.

 Ando,       I am not very computa savy! but the only way I can post histos is by photo thru photobucket.

The vtunes I print out from my "bike laptop"(pc) and then scan onto Home puta(Apple) and photobucket.

Excell Spreadsheet is the go I believe, but I don't have that anymore!

Burto.

burto,hilly

good info over at htt forum for woods tw6-6 with dpc 176 map.also egr's explained.

http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php/topic,38047.0.html

The MT8 calibration just allows you to get at more of what was already there. Yes, we use more of the ECU to allow you to get at it but it's not going to be something you can swap the same VE tables between MT7 and MT8. While they may be close the EGR adjustment and the Cam adjustment will cause th eVE's to be different. So just because it works good in a MT8 does notmean it will work good in a MT7

pretty colors

if they are not altering more than 5% I thought that it was that close as not to require further tuning.

Mate what happened to your profile...... O posts??

 

Still find myself looking at the Who's Online list for that familiar "Hilly" whenever I log on.

 

Miss ya company Mate, hope all is well.

Posted this on HTT, But for conversation sake on this forum.

I was thinking about this since I saw it on the other. I would lean toward leaving it how it is, put on the mufflers and vtuning. See where you are at. Since it's same cam, heads, AC, and header pipes. You might be closer now than if you would reset.

 Hey Ando,

Your 1st inflection point is #2, thats where you want to set your IVO. If you look at earlier posts in this thread, you can see a couple of us had similar graphs and wondered the same thing. Steve Cole set us straight on that one.

I had similar problems with getting enough hits too. Not sure which set up you are using.

I originally followed the new tuning guide and set AFRs to 14.6, closed loop tables, PE mode to 10,000,etc.

Then I went back to Docs (V-tune process without a dyno) instructions and did the following...........

AFRs to 14.6

AEs to zero

DEs to zero

Closed Loop to preferred setting (720 for me)

AKR to zero

This set up improved my "hits" and hit rate heaps, back to how it was with MT7s.

Hope this helps!

Burto.

I would have made it 3. The inflection isn't that great after 2

No problem Hilly. Don't get caught up in the BS of me and Rabos.

The break point is 2. It doesn't matter how hard it breaks. Just that is does break. This is a good example of picking 2 and see how it is. KPA at idle and smoothness at idle. Then go to 3 and compare the two.

I took Doc's class and set up for VTune how he has it in his tuning guide. The other board gave you good advice on sensor cooling and setting your CI to what it is. With the EGR tables I haven't tapped out to 127.5 without force induction.

Well, as you know. Vtune it for a big twin and see what happens. Since you are not in light load while it's in "wait mode" I will have to asume cooling of the O2 sensors. Are they properly located? If they are, try changing target AFR, either with CLB or Lambda. If I was still getting "waiting" I would look at timing. Can you post your data run?

 Dev1, looks like that lean spot was between 2500 and 4000rpm, and maybe a little at 4500-5500rpm...........if so,he seems to have ironed that out ok!

Burto