Hope somebody can help me.  I am trying to remove the handlebar clamp shroud on my 2007 FLHRC. I have done everything as per

workshopual manual but after taking off the plastic steering lock plate I am not looking at 2 phillips head screws as shown in manual.

Is anybody familiar with what to do next?

Thanks Hogbagger.  My manual may not have that supplement as it is a pdf file obtained on the cheap.

Thanks again mate.  I'll give it a shot.

How did it go with the screws on the handlebar clamp cover ?

I started to change my handlebars tonight on a 2011 FLHR & got caught on the same screws. Found futher on in the manual about drilling the screws on the steering lock itself.

What screws did you use to replace the drilled out ones ?

Critcho

G'day Critcho,

I haven't got around to drilling the screws out yet. I will probably do it tomorrow. I don't know what I will replace them with as yet.

I am interested to know what sort of bars you are putting on bike.

did this today,replaced standard bars with the new Heritage bars for R.K., used standard 1/8th drill bit as left turn not available,centre punch,drill hole then use an easy out,i bought an easyout that was a bit to small and had to grind it down until it gripped,they come out easy but haven't found replacement screws yet. This was an easy swap,got quoted $1500 by Geelong Harley to replace the standard bars with reduced reach bars which give 2 inch more pullback,$1150 was in parts,brake lines cables etc,  but the Heritage bars cost $129 with a 3inch pullback,took about 2hrs all up with minimum effort and great on the neck and back,all the standard lines and cables fitted back on,bit of dicking about getting the FBW out and i am a grand in front and while i'm at it ,i stood around Peter Stevens in Dandenong yesterday for 25 mins,2 weeks ago for another 20 mins and Ringwood also for 20 mins so about an hour all up over all and do you think anybody came up and asked what i wanted, which was to buy a Street Bob,fuck they did,and if you guys at both these stealers read this,get fucked we don't need you.

Took my bars off today. I was wondering how I was going to get what is left of the rivets out.  I know I should be pretending I know what I'm doing but what is and where do I get an easy out?  Now to find some lower bars with less pullback.  Any clues anybody? I have found Harley City to be reasonably on the ball service wise Codga.

any hardware store,got mine from Bunnings,make sure you match it with drill bit size,might have screw extractor written on the packet,but just ask the guy,drill down about 1/8 th inch then as i said if the easy out is a bit narrow,just grind it down till it grips then a slight turn with a small shifter and out they come,easy,Harley City are the most reliable and service friendly of all the dealers,ordered stuff this morning,it's the others that need to realize there are other options these days with internet etc.

,,just adding that they aren't rivets but small screws and will turn  with easy out,couldn't find replacement screws so buying lock cover that should come with longer screws,hope some of this helped.

 harley manual states" USE 1/8TH REVERSE drill bit,put drill in reverse also" i had to order a reverse drill bit and couldn't be bothered waiting but i would think it would be more straight forward to use.

Thanks for all your help fellas.  I'm on the case.

     hi.

Hi

G'day all,

I've just installed one of those clocks that goes over the fork lock on our RK. To remove the "blind" screws, I drilled two indents (3/32" either side of the centre, then used a pair of circlip pliers to undo the screws. Came out and re-installed real easy. You could probably use a small pair of long nose pliers if you don't have circlip pliers on hand.

As this was the only place I had found some information on this I thought I would update this. The touring international models used the break-away bolts. I have a 20006 FLHTCUSE international so this info applies to my model. The method I used was to use a Dremel to cut a small slot and use a screw driver to get them out. I replaced them with 10-24 3/4” panhead screws which are the same length as the ones removed but no breakaway.

Things to note are

• The ignition switches were not recalled but there was a service bulletin in the US to change them out as required and to not sell them anymore. In my case the original part number was 71530-03A but the new US part number is 71572-06 and the international numbers is 71530-03C as of this writing. I am not sure of the differences or all the problems for the changes. However 2006 it was M-1190 and the fork lock domestic change and they did not change the international till after but no bulletin as far as I know. One noticeable difference is the lack of the rib on the older version which could hit the handle bars when vibration and in my vase was hitting the bars with worn riser rubbers.
• There was also service bulletin on the riser bolts M1289 which uses a shorter bolt Torx head so the bolts on the front do not hit the radio as is common on 2006-2011 Electra Glide Touring and Advanced Audio System that were built before October 7th, 2010. The replacement parts were 12600003 only 2 can be used on the front only in my opinion
• Also changed has been all the internal fairing brackets big and small which I am sure has been covered elsewhere; 58478-96B, 58479-96B, 58938-96C, 58939-96C