I thought I’d share my experiences with the forum as I go through the process of installing V&H Dresser Duels & Monster Ovals, SE Heavy Breather and TTS on my new Roadking. Before going any further, I must say, I am not a professional spanner monkey, or possess any great skills, I just like playing with these things & enjoy doing it myself. I traded my wonderful 07 Fatboy on this even more wonderful 2011 FLHR at the end of October. Really impressed how well it goes stock standard. But due to work and some health issues (crook back) I haven’t had a chance to put may K’s on Elvis the King till now, just 350km so far. Your welcome to call me slack. Anyhow, during the weeks leading up to xmas I was busy with the orders for bits to add or change, thanks to Mark @ M&M, and not so to Chicago Harley. (more on that elsewhere).
With the hang-over from xmas & Boxing day out of the way, I couldn’t wait any longer to get stuck into it and make a move on the exhaust, A/C & TTS. Was going to wait till after the 1st service before adding these bits, but well, plans change.
Removal of the original exhaust was quite straight forward but I noted a couple of points that may be of interest that I hadn’t encounted before with my previous two Fatboys.
The exhaust flange nuts from the rear (left) were darker in colour compared to those on the front cylinder. I don’t think it could be related to more heat on the rear, only 350km. There is no mention of any difference in the Service Manual.
Following the removal instructions supplied with the V&H Dresser Duals there was also no mention of the Active Exhaust (flapper) and what to do with it. (would appear not to be used on the domestic version)
A check of the Service Manual - cable removed, but then comes the Actuating motor. Do you just remove the cable and leave the Actuating motor intact, or remove the motor unit from under the battery carrier and then hope disabling Active Exhaust in TTS later fixes any problem of error codes etc. Because the system detects no actuator motor – can someone reassure me on this bit.
Also, the AMP connector (above, red plug) if the Active Exhaust Actuating Motor is removed – what do you do with it. Tape it, chase up a cover. I had a beer (maybe two) & thought about the options, then I spotted a plug retaining socket on the bottom of the battery carrier, bingo. I assume this is where the yanks put the plug that is not used over there.
Probably needs sealing with di-electric grease or similar to keep moisture out. I have had no luck so far in finding a suitable grease to seal these plugs. – again, any suggestions of where to get this stuff ....
Then came the exhaust port gaskets. I got new caskets in advance, as recommended by V&H, HD #17048-98 (right), but on removal of the old gaskets the physical difference was significant. Shit, public holiday where can I get more gaskets today.
On closer inspection the original conical gaskets (above left) fitted the shape of the original exhaust (below right) more so then the new V&H pipes (below left).
I made an executive decision to use the new gaskets (#17048-98), here’s hoping.
That’s about it for today, only fitted up the header pipes so far, had to call it quits for the day – kids in need.
If anyone can see I have stuffed up somewhere, please let me know.
Thanks Blue,
I assumed I could turn off Active Exhaust in TTS, hadn't even thought about the Active Air. I better do some more research before going any further. Maybe I should load TTS to turn off Active Exhaust before I disconnect the Active Exhaust plug, so no error codes occur. Thanks too about the exhaust gasket tip, I noticed the new pipes sat further into the exhaust port than the original. Cheers
Hi there, I've got 2011 road king myself but i bought a set of bub true dual's, which i have'nt fitted yet I have the same problem as you with the actuator etc, and BUB's refferd me to your posting for advice. so i thought i would ask how you went and do you have any other advice that you could pass on, or if anyone else has advice that would be great.
thank's
Hi Pablo, no problems fitting the Dresser Duals apart from whats shown below.
I really like the sound of the Monster Ovals on these, not too loud, till you open it up.
I must add I did use 2 x HD #17048-98 on each exhaust port. This was recommended by someone cleverer than me. I think the extra $24 was worth it, and no exhaust leaks.
When I loaded the TTS base map the active exhaust was already de-activated, so no problems there either. I still have to do the V-Tune runs, but it runs like a dream. Too much fun riding, but I'll get around to the Vtune soon.
