Hi,

I have an early 84 Roadster, 1000cc iron head.

The problem I have is that it has been fitted with points, and the electronics dumped.

How do I time it?

My factory manual says marks on flywheels are different between 81 and 83, with the line on the 81 flywheel being 40 before top, whilst on the 83, the line is top.

It also states on the 81, full advance is 40 before, whilst on the 83, it is 55 before.

In any case, none of this means much, as both these models had some type of electronic ignition.

Why would the full advance be different on these two models?   Aren't the engines identical?  Is it because of the different types of ignition?

Can anyone help me with points gap (probably the same as very early iron heads?) ?

Can any one tell me what the full advance position is?

Got me stuffed....

Dave. 

hi, point's is ok if you look after them, but electronic ign  like a crane H1-4 is better  ,

points  are set @  0.015"  for both lobe's grease bob weight's 1st.   can replace weight's if worn ,

timing marks  are 1980 & later  is the single dot  thats full ADV mark ,   the strike mark is TDC,

set motor on compresion stroke on the front cyl  with the timing  mark  dot in the window ( piston  5/16 inch B.T.D.C. )  turn bobweight cam too full adv  anticlock wise & set point's to 0.002" just  open,  @ 0.002" thats when the spark jumps  triggering the coil to thro a spark ,      easy.      best too do this in top gear with the back wheel up  & turn the wheel foward  the locate timing marks

Daddyracer56 always delivers the goods even if it is so early in the morning. 

 Thanks Daddyracer,

I will set it as you have stated, and see how it goes.

thanks again

Dave.

 Hi Guys,

wrote this a couple of years back and thought it may be helpful.

And as far as daddyracer getting up early in the morning on Christmas Day.

You got kids Daddyracer ?

My sprogs  (15,11 and 10) were up at around 5am, (I'm 54 and make a very grumpy Santa I tell you !!!)

I normally have to be gone by 3.30am to work and there are few days I get to sleep in.

Bugger I suppose Christmas is a good excuse.

Bah Humbug to all, 

Cris.

Before you can do this you will have to do 2 things. 

1 make a mark (line or dot) on the edge of your timing plate, left of the V notch used to move the plate. 

2 Take the circumference of the timing plate (run a pencil around it onto a piece of paper) and mark a section which is 30 degrees wide at the edge ( 30 degrees off 360 degrees). 
Using the paper as a template make or find a piece of metal that is this exact width. 

Now:

1- remove points cover and also spark plugs. 

2- In neutral, rotate the engine so the points are open on the front cylinder lobe (narrow) by pushing down 
on the kickstart ( or magic button if you don’t have a kicker). Gap is 15 to 18 thou. If the points are broken go to 3.

3- If you need to find TDC on the front cylinder and cant see the flywheel mark, or cant get the plug off the hole, use a pencil or a thin stick down the front spark plug hole and rotate the engine slowly till the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. This places the cam lobe at the right spot to gap the plugs.

4- Replace bad points if needed, and gap them to specs.  A little dab of grease on the cam lobe will keep them happy. 

5- Now using the mark you placed on the timing plate, and the little tool you made, rotate the plate CLOCKWISE from one edge of the tool to the other edge. Lock the plate down.
You have just set the points so they will go to 30 degrees at full advance. This setting will allow you to start the bike and it will run ok. 

6- Warm the bike and increase the throttle so it reaches 2000rpm. Slowly rotate the timing plate clockwise till the engine starts to run rough. Back the plate (anticlockwise) about 1/8. Tighten everything up. Keep the points cover in your pocket. 

7- Take it for a run. if it hesitates when you snap the throttle on, back the timing plate a touch more.

Put the points cover back on. 

You’re done.

 Thanks for all the help.

I went with Daddyracer in the first instance, as this method looked the easiest, and the flywheel does have the correct marks on it.

I followed the steps exactly, the only difficult phase being having the contact points at exactly 2 thou open with the cam fully advanced.  I achieved this after a bit of mucking around.

The bike started instantly, and is running better than it ever has.

thanks all of you for all the advice.

Dave.